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Take care of the O rings and replace the pump to manifold gasket at the same time: https://dpequip.net/shop/generator-...ousing-to-cylinder-head-gasket-onan-186-6182/
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MEP-802A questions
- Thread starter robert248
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Loosen the nut on the face of that panel (on the oil pressure sender side) and see if you can push that angled fitting backwards enough to get wrenches in. Only other option is to disconnect/remove the oil pressure sender assembly, loosen and remove that same large nut, and push out of the hole and pull downwards.
Check for fitting cracks, hose leaks, etc. They do fail. Cheap enough to replace either way. https://www.surpluscenter.com/Brand...Hose-Assembly-5800-PSI-NRP-Jones-920-2218.axd
I've had the threaded provision get hairline cracks too.
Check for fitting cracks, hose leaks, etc. They do fail. Cheap enough to replace either way. https://www.surpluscenter.com/Brand...Hose-Assembly-5800-PSI-NRP-Jones-920-2218.axd
I've had the threaded provision get hairline cracks too.
2Pbfeet
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I keep a few common thin (low profile) open end wrenches around for situations like this. However, in addition to @Light in the Dark's great suggestions, there is also unscrewing the swivel flare fitting on the hose to improve the access. Lots of ways to do it...
All the best,
2Pbfeet
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Does anyone know what part number is this gasket?
Do you have a copy of the engine parts TM? Its nice that someone helped you out with the repair kit, but better might have been for you to get used to the TM. It can help you at 03:00, when everyone else is in bed.
Do you have a copy of the engine parts TM? Its nice that someone helped you out with the repair kit, but better might have been for you to get used to the TM. It can help you at 03:00, when everyone else is in bed.
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Engine -24P calls out the following:
601-20691
PACKING,PREFORMED ,
PART OF KIT PIN 186-6211,
KIT PIN 186-6213
www.oldtimerengines.com.au
601-20691
PACKING,PREFORMED ,
PART OF KIT PIN 186-6211,
KIT PIN 186-6213
Fuel Pump 'O' Ring Lister Petter LT, LV, TS, TR, TX, LPA, LPW 601-20691
Genuine fuel pump ‘O’ Ring for Lister Petter LT, LV, TS, TR, TX, P600, LPA, LPW, LPWT & LPWS, this ‘O’ Ring is also used for the water pump seal on the LPW Range. Lister Petter part number 601-20691.
www.oldtimerengines.com.au
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Thank you.
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Make sure you get every last speck of sand out of the thermostat housing and the water passages.
Also might want to change the gasket #12 between the Water pump and the intermediate plate while it's apart.
Also might want to change the gasket #12 between the Water pump and the intermediate plate while it's apart.
What is your opinion on changing out the gasket by making your own with this stuff?
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I personally would only use if the gaskets are not readily available, or in an emergency. Both the water pump gasket as well as pump to manifold gasket should both be readily sourceable.
- 2,816
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If you can't get the gasket in time, you can also purchase a 12"x12" square of gasket material from your local auto parts store and cut out your own gasket.
It's actually pretty easy, I've done it many times on other projects.
These days there are many automotive applications that use silicone only and no gasket, but the parts are designed specifically for this, meaning the surfaces are machined flatter and often wider than when a gasket is going to be used.
If you decide to use gasket maker only, apply it to both surfaces, put the parts together but don't tighten the bolts, leave them for 1/2hr. then tighten. This lest the silicone set up a little to help prevent it from being squeezed out.
It's actually pretty easy, I've done it many times on other projects.
These days there are many automotive applications that use silicone only and no gasket, but the parts are designed specifically for this, meaning the surfaces are machined flatter and often wider than when a gasket is going to be used.
If you decide to use gasket maker only, apply it to both surfaces, put the parts together but don't tighten the bolts, leave them for 1/2hr. then tighten. This lest the silicone set up a little to help prevent it from being squeezed out.
Unfortunately I don't have time to wait for gaskets so here goes making my own. Hand tightened the screws and now letting it dry for 30 minutes. Will come back shortly to tighten.
Update: The gasket set but letting it sit for 24 hours. Will update after its fully set.
Need some help with where I can locate the rubber material that goes to the radiator. Im missing the part on the one side. See attached picture. Who sells this or does one have to make their own?
Update: The gasket set but letting it sit for 24 hours. Will update after its fully set.
Need some help with where I can locate the rubber material that goes to the radiator. Im missing the part on the one side. See attached picture. Who sells this or does one have to make their own?
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That strip is of little importance. You can go to Home Depot and get a roll of sticky back foam rubber tape and use that instead.
They typically have a selection of sizes and thicknesses in with the door sweep and replacement gaskets, most in plastic bags made by Frost King
They typically have a selection of sizes and thicknesses in with the door sweep and replacement gaskets, most in plastic bags made by Frost King
These wires came off and I don't remember which went where. Does it matter when I go to reconnect them?
Also on the gasket there should be two of these right? I'm looking at the diagram and its listed in the documentation as #15. Do I just pull hard to remove the metal piece that has the gasket on the non visible side? #16 I think would be the metal piece.
Also on the gasket there should be two of these right? I'm looking at the diagram and its listed in the documentation as #15. Do I just pull hard to remove the metal piece that has the gasket on the non visible side? #16 I think would be the metal piece.
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On the o-ring gasket, there are 2 of them, however in your picture the 2nd one is still inside the block.
That tube is a short stub with o-rings on both ends.
on the thermal switch wires, polarity does not matter, it's just a switch, not a sensor.
That tube is a short stub with o-rings on both ends.
on the thermal switch wires, polarity does not matter, it's just a switch, not a sensor.
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You can use any kind of thread sealer. I tend to use Permatex #2 non-hardening.
But anything will do, even the blue gasket maker you used or Teflon tape will be fine.
And... don't listen to anyone who tries to tell you that thread sealer will isolate the sensor from getting a good ground through the threads.
1) NPT threads will cut through anything you put in there and there will be a perfect ground connection.
2) This is a 2 wire switch which doesn't use any ground connection anyway, so no need to even think about it!
But anything will do, even the blue gasket maker you used or Teflon tape will be fine.
And... don't listen to anyone who tries to tell you that thread sealer will isolate the sensor from getting a good ground through the threads.
1) NPT threads will cut through anything you put in there and there will be a perfect ground connection.
2) This is a 2 wire switch which doesn't use any ground connection anyway, so no need to even think about it!
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That is the block coolant drain. If you leave it open all the coolant will drain out of the block and the radiator to that static level.
Make sure its closed, and that you have no drainage under use (it should have a coolant drain hose on it, that also ties into the brass drain on the bottom of the radiator, and to the overflow nipple on the coolant catch can).
Make sure its closed, and that you have no drainage under use (it should have a coolant drain hose on it, that also ties into the brass drain on the bottom of the radiator, and to the overflow nipple on the coolant catch can).