MEP002A no start

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renuing

New member
9
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Location
Captain Cook, HI
Hi! I have a new to me MEP002A generator that was purchased at a local army supply store. The previous owner changed his plans for using the generator and decided to sell. The story I was told was that the generator was working fine and then one day it wouldn't fire and he didn't want to mess with it. That's the condition I got it in. Things I have done so far:

1. Drained old fuel, replaced with new and run new fuel through all filters
2. Confirmed there is good fuel flow getting to the IP and returning to the tank
3. Confirmed fuel shutoff solenoid is working and lifting up while cranking
4. Confirmed glow plugs are working (I live in Hawaii though so no warm up is needed)
5. Confirmed IP plunger moves freely via O.D.Fever's method of removing the large hex nut and using a punch. I didn't even need to hammer it moved very freely. The hex nut was also only finger tight so I guess another possibility since I don't know the real history of the unit is that someone messed with the IP or rebuilt it but the timing is off. I've never checked anything like that so not overly anxious to mess around with it but if it's the issue I guess I will have to. I just want to rule everything else out first.

I have still been unable to get the generator to fire. It cranks and cranks but doesn't want to start. There is no white smoke while I am cranking. I have read a number of threads regarding starting issues and am quite sure it is not getting fuel but I don't know why. I took the high pressure fuel lines off and the IP is pushing out fuel all the way to the injectors but when I have the lines attached and just crack the nuts the fuel doesn't spray out, it just kind of dribbles. I included a couple of videos that will hopefully help. I'm not sure I'm getting the kind of pressure I should be.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nxb1Jt2L-yk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3w3rYDrxSgs

My main question is can anyone shed some light on what to try next. Is my IP bad? My injectors? I'm sure I've left some information out so please ask away!

Thanks a lot!
 

jamawieb

Active member
1,177
11
38
Location
Ripley/TN
More than likely the plunger guide is broken. You can do a flow test on the pump to confirm, I have never seen both injectors bad where the unit would not produce smoke or start.
Flow test:
1st: take the valve cover off, then rotate the motor over by 5/8 bolt on the blower and watch the intake valve to open then close on the cylinder closest to the blower. (number 1 cylinder and this the combustion stroke)
2nd: Then look into the hole, in the bell housing that is approximately straight across from the injector pump and as you rotate the motor (after the intake valve closes in step 1) look for PC
3rd after you find PC line it up with the timing mark, then turn the motor counter clockwise 15 degrees.
4th. Take the large hex nut off the front of the IP, then take the 16mm cap off behind that. After you take the 16mm holder out, you will see the delivery spring. Take the spring out and put it to the side finally put it back together.
5th: Take the hard lines off
6th: Turn the master switch to prime and run, and you will have to hold the throttle linkage up at the same time, you should have the fuel coming out of the injector port going to cylinder 1. Rotate the motor clock wise while holding the throttle linkage up until the fuel stops. Then look at the timing marks on the flywheel, it should be at PC. If not then you need to take the pump off and inspect.

The pump is very easy to rebuild.
 

renuing

New member
9
1
3
Location
Captain Cook, HI
Thanks jamawieb!

I can't get back to the generator until this weekend but I'll try what you suggested and report back. Thanks for the easy to follow instructions, I appreciate it.
 

Ray70

Member
631
27
18
Location
West greenwich/RI
Hey Renuing, Its hard to tell without seeing it myself, but don't expect to see a lot of fuel spraying out of the "Cracked" injector lines. The volume of fuel in each stroke of the pump is very small, so it normally just looks like a drip or small spurt coming from the loosened lines. It doesn't really spray out at all.
Check the pump timing like Jamawieb described. If the plunger guide is cracked it will slip on the shaft and not rotate the pump correctly.
Looking at the video I "think" ( fingers crossed) that your plunger guide might be ok, but its best to test it. If its good the injectors are probably stuck shut.
As mentioned, the pump and injectors are both very easy to rebuild, but you need a pop tester to adjust the injectors.
If need be, I built a pop tester and can bring it to you in HI, just buy me a plane ticket and I'll come to you! :beer:
 

renuing

New member
9
1
3
Location
Captain Cook, HI
I was able to perform the flow test this weekend. The flow stopped one tick mark below the PC mark (see picture). The TM says I need a different size button to adjust the timing. If my plunger guide is broken would that cause the timing to be off like this? What do I need to do next? Thanks!

Ray70, thanks for the offer :) I hope I can get his figured out and running soon!

IP timing.jpg
 

Ray70

Member
631
27
18
Location
West greenwich/RI
I think you are fine as far as timing and Plunger guide. 1 tick away from the mark is not a problem. I believe another member here once did a timing button test to compare timing to power output and found no significant difference in power or performance until you get much further away from the mark, something like 5 lines maybe??
At this point I'm leaning towards you having 2 stuck injectors.
 

jamawieb

Active member
1,177
11
38
Location
Ripley/TN
I agree with Ray, it should still start at that position. I've never seen both injectors stuck but anything is possible.
 

Ray70

Member
631
27
18
Location
West greenwich/RI
Sounds like it's time to pull the injectors out and have a look. If your machine isn't very rusty, they should come out pretty easily.
If you take the injector nozzle off you will probably find that the needle is stuck in the nozzle.
You can try cleaning the needles and nozzles to free them up, or a new rebuild kit is $45 per injector and includes the nozzle, needle and new gaskets.
The only down side is that you really must test and set the pop pressure while you have them out, which requires a tester.
The other, more expensive option is to replace the injectors, if you find them to be frozen, but that will cost you $185 ea.
 

Chainbreaker

Member
995
23
18
Location
Oregon
I agree with Ray, I think I would first try removing them and cleaning them. I wonder if putting them in something like an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner type device with carb cleaner might work? Those ultrasonic vibrations tend to get the fluid to move into tight crevices and also generates some heat so the liquid penetrates better.

If you can't get them cleaned up yourself then perhaps taking your injectors to an injection shop and having them cleaned and while there having the the pop-off pressure checked would be another option to consider.
 

Chainbreaker

Member
995
23
18
Location
Oregon
Does anyone know if Storeman still rebuilds the injectors???
Not very active lately on SS, he hasn't posted anything since August 2018. If you do a search for him and click on his name and then view his profile there is an email address for him listed. Might be worth a shot.
 

renuing

New member
9
1
3
Location
Captain Cook, HI
Thanks again everyone! I looked at the plunger (while still on the generator) again this weekend just to make sure and it definitely moves in and out freely and spins. The injectors sound like the most likely culprit. I won't be able to get them pulled off to take a look for another month or so now but if I figure it out I'll post back.

Guyfang, I would be interested in a quote as well, would you pop test and set them too?
 

Ray70

Member
631
27
18
Location
West greenwich/RI
****... I was hoping to revisit Hawaii.... only been once back in high school, played in the marching band and did a ceremony at the Pearl Harbor Memorial back in like 1987.
Once you get them out, send me a PM and we can talk. Just pay the shipping costs( for the injectors... I'm too big for even the Large Flat rate box) and parts ( If I need to replace nozzles and needles ) and a some beer money for my time.....
I would however ask that you try to remove the heat sinks before you send them, If they are frozen on I don't want to be responsible if one breaks.
 

Chainbreaker

Member
995
23
18
Location
Oregon
BTW, the heat sinks are aluminum. I would start spraying some PB Blaster on them now and everyday until you try to extract them. If they don't break loose and come out, use some heat (propane torch) on the heat sink.
 
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