My (new) M1008...

vanaisa

Active member
140
187
43
Location
Tallinn, Estonia
I agree, they must be technically in order, exterior doesnt matter too much :)

What is difference between "normal" and high altitude pump versions? Different fuel/air settings? If yes, can i change those settings myself?
 

Keith_J

Well-known member
3,212
333
83
Location
Schertz TX
High altitude fuel setting is less fuel. In a diesel, it is always running lean of peak exhaust gas temperature. In this engine specifically, far lean. High altitude means less air density so corresponding less fuel.

With regards to your prior fuel system clog, that sounds like badly oxidized fuel. Ouch. The injection pump has an inlet screen. I would clean up to that part very well. Don't know if you could find this product but Diesel Mechanic in a Bottle works very well to dissolve this dirt.
 

vanaisa

Active member
140
187
43
Location
Tallinn, Estonia
Thanks for info! We dont have this chemical for sale here but if needed, i can buy it from your side and ship here. England is not far from Estonia :)
Yes, my next step is to remove inlet cap and clean or replace screen. When cap is off, probably i see, is there further contamination, past screen.
But - as i tried to start engine probably some 20 times (10...15 sec max) - IP was dry, is it ruined now?
 
Last edited:

Keith_J

Well-known member
3,212
333
83
Location
Schertz TX
How dry? If there is fuel inside the housing, it should be good. The next things after the screen would be the transfer pump. This isn't too difficult to service and there is no calibration to fuss with. After this is the pressure regulator and this would require speed based calibration. The transfer pump is a vane type, the oxidized fuel you found might have gummed this up, causing the problem.
Don't give up yet, it may be good.
 

vanaisa

Active member
140
187
43
Location
Tallinn, Estonia
Well, there was fuel in upper bowl, when i got car and tried to start it. Afterwards i changed diesel in bowl with ATF. And after week with diesel additive. When i cranked engine, bowl was still full. As i understand, if there is blockage on inlet, no fuel is moving inside IP or to injectors?
Of course i try all things, before start to buying new IP.
Tomorrow i have time, so i take off inlet cup and we´ll see what is there...

I readed few times Stanadyne manual and i must say, i am really like its simple, mechanical design.

Thanks!
 

Keith_J

Well-known member
3,212
333
83
Location
Schertz TX
Hopefully the screen and transfer pump kept the nasty things out of the rotor. That is the heart of the injection pump. Transfer pressure can be adjusted using exhaust gas temperature and desired power but remember transfer pressure also advances timing, delay in timing will raise exhaust gas temperature and lower power but also make it quieter.
 

vanaisa

Active member
140
187
43
Location
Tallinn, Estonia
OK, lets pictures talk themselves:
DSC_2616.JPG
DSC_2626.JPG
DSC_2624.JPG
DSC_2620.JPG

this i put in original full size:

DSC_2629.JPG

So as you see, gunk is everywhere (soft and black this time), screen is completely gone.
I have´nt removed transfer pump jet, maybe some recommendations ot thoughts before i start with it?
In my eye all looks bad as it can be :confused:
 
Last edited:

Keith_J

Well-known member
3,212
333
83
Location
Schertz TX
Does the inside look like that? If not, go on. You still have the regulator after the pump. A regulator is also a check valve which shuts off flow when inlet pressure is less than outlet.
I'm not trying to be an optimist here..
 

vanaisa

Active member
140
187
43
Location
Tallinn, Estonia
Yeah, ran out brake cleaner :) Tomorrow i take transfer pump off. As you can see, between supply pump rotor, there is some sludge. What is behind it, i dont know jet.
After that, i probably can not deassembly IP anymore, without removing it from engine.
 
Last edited:

Mullaney

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
3,594
6,467
113
Location
Charlotte NC
OK, lets pictures talk themselves:
View attachment 844545
View attachment 844546
View attachment 844547
View attachment 844548

this i put in original full size:

View attachment 844549

So as you see, gunk is everywhere (soft and black this time), screen is completely gone.
I have´nt removed transfer pump jet, maybe some recommendations ot thoughts before i start with it?
In my eye all looks bad as it can be :confused:
.
Wow!

That is a pretty severe case of "the creeping crud" for sure!
And it is soft enough that you can fulsh it away with Brake Parts Cleaner?
If so, it sure is better than a few I have seen (gummy and hard to remove).

Looks like you have a heck of a project on your hands!
 

vanaisa

Active member
140
187
43
Location
Tallinn, Estonia
Yes, inside this gunk is soft. I am worried that screen is completely gone - those particles does not do good inside IP (plastic but still).
It is tricky to remove supply pump, i can move liner but blades stay still on rotor. And they are spring loaded :)
I sprayed all supply pump side with rust removal and ziptied plastic bag full of diesel on whole thing. Maybe tomorrow those blades come off easier...

My plan is to clean all those parts, look for corrosion and reassembly. And try to crank few times more. If no fuel, it is time for another IP.

Edit: also - can someone recommend, where to buy this screen - Stanadyne Transfer Pump Screen / Filter OEM 28986?
I see few in ebay but shipping prices ca 20...35USD are not reasonable...

00.jpg
 
Last edited:

Keith_J

Well-known member
3,212
333
83
Location
Schertz TX
Does the inside look like that? If not, go on. You still have the regulator after the pump. A regulator is also a check valve which shuts off flow when inlet pressure is less than outlet.
I'm not trying to be an optimist here..
 

MarcusOReallyus

Well-known member
4,417
612
113
Location
Virginia
Kerosene or paint thinner, or even diesel, will probably do most of the cleaning for you, and save that expensive brake cleaner for the final clean.
 

Mullaney

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
3,594
6,467
113
Location
Charlotte NC
Another idea might be to use one of these air nozzles with the venturi effect on it. Clear line sucks up whatever cleaner and then, UNDER PRESSURE blows away the crud. Works really well so long as you remember to NOT BLOW YOURSELF UP. You will be vaporizing the fluid making it easier to ignite!

Air Nozzle +Suction.jpg
 

vanaisa

Active member
140
187
43
Location
Tallinn, Estonia
OK, found screen from France, ordered and waiting. In mean time i remove supply pump and also check and clean delivery valve.
Thank you all for help and great ideas.

STANADYNE ROTARY FUEL INJECTION PUMP OPERATION.jpg

Question: if i put inlet cap on without supply pump and pressure regulator and give to IP fuel with good pressure - can fuel go thru pump to bowl and return line?
Metering valve turns good, shutoff set to open position.
 
Last edited:

Keith_J

Well-known member
3,212
333
83
Location
Schertz TX
OK, found screen from France, ordered and waiting. In mean time i remove supply pump and also check and clean delivery valve.
Thank you all for help and great ideas.

View attachment 844608

Question: if i put inlet cap on without supply pump and pressure regulator and give to IP fuel with good pressure - can fuel go thru pump to bowl and return line?
Metering valve turns good, shutoff set to open position.
Fuel should flow through the injection pump's bleed orifice to the case, there is a vibrating wire through this orifice to regulate the flow. Remove the pink wire to prevent flow through the delivery system.
 

vanaisa

Active member
140
187
43
Location
Tallinn, Estonia
Keith, yes, it should. But without cranking (electric fuel pump)? I get nothing. Not in fuel bowl, not in transfer pump pressure test/inlet cap lock port (what should be connected to vent wire passage)

My logic says that there is low pressure area of IP (inlet screen-regulator assembly-transfer pump), delivery valve is in high pressure area.
I did not removed delivery valve, as there is part, that should be replaced when taken apart.

If there should be fuel flow with electric pump and without cranking, i need new IP as here we dont have shops, who are willing to overhaul this IP. (n)
And i dont have tools to do it myself (some courage i have :) )
 

Rutjes

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
343
251
63
Location
Amersfoort, The Netherlands
Keith, yes, it should. But without cranking (electric fuel pump)? I get nothing. Not in fuel bowl, not in transfer pump pressure test/inlet cap lock port (what should be connected to vent wire passage)

My logic says that there is low pressure area of IP (inlet screen-regulator assembly-transfer pump), delivery valve is in high pressure area.
I did not removed delivery valve, as there is part, that should be replaced when taken apart.

If there should be fuel flow with electric pump and without cranking, i need new IP as here we dont have shops, who are willing to overhaul this IP. (n)
And i dont have tools to do it myself (some courage i have :) )
I've once got a quote for a rebuild here in the Netherlands. It's cheaper or about the same price to buy one from the US! @Swfb found a local source for rebuild ones for I believe €750. If you decide to replace yours, ask him about it. Shipping from NL shouldn't be very expensive.
 

vanaisa

Active member
140
187
43
Location
Tallinn, Estonia
OK, located and secured used pump from 86 LD C/K truck here (dont remember exact # DB2-45xx). Truck is civilian of course. Well, what left for it anyways :D
Should i dial fuel up slightly, before install? And when installed and running, timing of course?
 
Last edited:
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks