My (new) M1008...

MAZ537

Member
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Location
EU
Yes, i saw and hear pump/truck running. I was just stupid not to buy injectors from that car too. But in that time i didnt know, that my IP is totaled, probably not suitable even for core.
This all is in my older posts here ;)
Well, if you are not in a hurry we can take a look to your old IP...
 

Jake59

Active member
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Location
Kaggevinne
Hello again, was working and searching injectors.
Got remanufactured ones, today removed two old and put new ones in.

Old cyl 1 injector sure enough was rusted stuck and of course full of that wonderful goo... :evil:

View attachment 847246
View attachment 847247
Hello Vanaisa,

Don't trash your old nozzles with needle valves yet.
From the picture, nothing dramatic actually. Need some good TLC and cleaning. Put the nozzles (likely the entire dissassembled injector in a good cleaning solvent, preferably use an ultrason cleaner and set it hot and as long as possible. Blow with air pressure after each run and repeat ultrason cleaning operation. Parts will get clean after a few runs.

It is most important NOT to mix multiple injectors together, parts of each injetor (spring, washer, ....) and definitely each individual nozzle with associated needle valve are individually ground to fit together perfectly.

You can even sandblast the outer injector body if corroded too much but stay off of the smooth mounting surfaces as there are no seals used in these injectors, other than the perfect flat machined metal to metal surface contact between various injetor parts. Perfect sealing is then achieved by high torque between these super smooth and flat surfaces.

The needle valve should spontaneously slide out of the nozzle when held at about 30 degrees down angle and with needle clean and lubed with diesel fuel. This is according to the Bosch. In reality I have never even seen new nozzles with needle valves do that...
What it comes down to is that the needle valve must slide freely in and out of the nozzle, without any friction or hard point.
If the needle valve is in any way a little hard to move, what I then do is clamp the small end of the needle in my drill, then grab a piece of the finest grain possible scotch brite (or even a kitchen sink sponge) in my hand and gently polish the needle valve for a few seconds at a time, check for fit and repeat until it slides smoothly in and out of the nozzle.

If you are not familiar with disassembling and assembling injectors, although this is specifically about Mercedes injectors, they are very similar to the GM 6.2 injectors (only differene ist the heat shield in the nose) and even the torque spec is the same, so follow this guy's recommendations here:
and set subtitles to English and you will fully understand the proces.

Good luck on the repairs,
Jake
 
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vanaisa

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Tallinn, Estonia
Thanks! I definitely try that. Our company bought ultrasonic cleaner few weeks ago (large one). Can you advise, what solvent to use? It must be non flammable, i presume?
About truck - put used injectors in, primed with electric pump, cranked 3..4 times and it runs! Well it ran some 5 seconds and died. Probably still some air in system. Charged batteries and tried again, this time starter said goodbye. Solenoid is weak, does not hold tooths to flywheel (spins great).

And we have bad weather everyday now, lots of rain and cold, so i hauled 1008 to garage (far away) for winter. Probably i go for 12V starter. But then i must change winch too. Thinking time. I like 12V gear reduction starter on my 1009...
 

LT67

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Bowdon, GA
Thanks! I definitely try that. Our company bought ultrasonic cleaner few weeks ago (large one). Can you advise, what solvent to use? It must be non flammable, i presume?
About truck - put used injectors in, primed with electric pump, cranked 3..4 times and it runs! Well it ran some 5 seconds and died. Probably still some air in system. Charged batteries and tried again, this time starter said goodbye. Solenoid is weak, does not hold tooths to flywheel (spins great).

And we have bad weather everyday now, lots of rain and cold, so i hauled 1008 to garage (far away) for winter. Probably i go for 12V starter. But then i must change winch too. Thinking time. I like 12V gear reduction starter on my 1009...
I have a 12V gear reduction on my 86 M1008. It works, but the factory 24V 27MT starter that was on my 85 M1008 spun the 6.2 diesel like like a gas burner with no spark plugs.... warm restarts with the MT was the ignition key touching the start position for .1 of a second
 

Jake59

Active member
139
69
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Location
Kaggevinne
Thanks! I definitely try that. Our company bought ultrasonic cleaner few weeks ago (large one). Can you advise, what solvent to use? It must be non flammable, i presume?
About truck - put used injectors in, primed with electric pump, cranked 3..4 times and it runs! Well it ran some 5 seconds and died. Probably still some air in system. Charged batteries and tried again, this time starter said goodbye. Solenoid is weak, does not hold tooths to flywheel (spins great).

And we have bad weather everyday now, lots of rain and cold, so i hauled 1008 to garage (far away) for winter. Probably i go for 12V starter. But then i must change winch too. Thinking time. I like 12V gear reduction starter on my 1009...
Vanaisa,

Using an ultrasonic cleaner is great for cleaning injectors, IPs, carburetors and any small parts!
Normally these come with "special" solvents, which are usually (over)priced...
Not likely your company will allow you to use anything else then what they prescribe.

Personally, I use either my own home brew water with strong detergent but also just plain kerosene, in which case you must keep away any flames or sparks!
All an ultrasonic cleaner does is warm up the fluid to soak the parts and vibrate the fluid at a very high frequency to get good penetration and literally shake the smallest of contaminants off and out of the parts.

I also use kerosene in my parts cleaner, rather than the parts cleaner "special solvents" which costs 3 to 5 times the price.
Kerosene is a distillation fraction between gasoline and diesel fuel, but not as combustible nor as volatile as gasoline, so it will stay/keep much longer in your parts cleaner without any odor in your workshop and cleans your parts very well, removes all dirt and grease and completely dries off the part, so do not forget to coat with light oil afterwards to avoid new corrosion. I sometimes leave my cleaned parts in the closed parts washer, as they also do not corrode as long as I keep them in there. As for protecting exposed parts, I usually apply a light coat of linseed oil, either boiled or pressed, which is an excellent corrosion protection... and smells nice.

Now, as for your starter, I had to replace mine as well when I purchased my M1009, as it was burned out. I found a brand new 24V reduction gear starter for a fair price actually, I think it was around 160€. Google a bit, you may find it.
However, from what you wrote, I understand that the starter gear does not engage with the flex plate gear. This does not necessarily mean you need a new starter. Check your solenoid indeed, although, if it engages enough to make the starter spin, this means the solenoid pulls all the way as only then the starter contact is being closed/activated. Perhaps your starter is not shimmed properly (too much?) and this may cause free spinning as well or the bronze starter bushings are worn out and need to be replaced... Or possibly the lever between solenoid and starter gear is damaged, bent, missing the pivot bolt, ... Check those first before you start chasing new parts I would say!

Other than that, check your anti-freeze level before winter kicks in, because in Tallinn it does get a little colder...

Cheers,
Jake
 

vanaisa

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Tallinn, Estonia
Yes, this "special solvent" is pricey. But as they use cleaner to clean large hydraulic parts from veneer line, i can "sneak in" my small injectors :)

Starter trouble was dissapointing indeed. It went thru workshop month or so ago, everything was OK, they said. I check starter of course, i was just too frustrated to take it off when mowed truck to garage. First time i removed it, there was not any shims, i put it back same way. Need to check distances from flywheel then. We´ll see how it goes.
 

Jake59

Active member
139
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Location
Kaggevinne
Yes, this "special solvent" is pricey. But as they use cleaner to clean large hydraulic parts from veneer line, i can "sneak in" my small injectors :)

Starter trouble was dissapointing indeed. It went thru workshop month or so ago, everything was OK, they said. I check starter of course, i was just too frustrated to take it off when mowed truck to garage. First time i removed it, there was not any shims, i put it back same way. Need to check distances from flywheel then. We´ll see how it goes.
Ok Bud,

Hope things work out!
Remember to keep all parts of each injector separated from one another, otherwise you will have to recalibrate your injectors, like the German mechanic on YouTube demonstrates.

cheers,
Jake
 

vanaisa

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Location
Tallinn, Estonia
Well, descided to keep 24V system (changing winch to 12V is also pain) and upgrade to gear reduction. Maybe i am bad at searching but only place, i found 24V gear reduction starter, is Hillbilly Wizard.
Are there other places?
 

Sharecropper

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Paris KY
Well, descided to keep 24V system (changing winch to 12V is also pain) and upgrade to gear reduction. Maybe i am bad at searching but only place, i found 24V gear reduction starter, is Hillbilly Wizard.
Are there other places?
Hillbilly Wizard is your best bet if you are looking for a used original CUCV starter. If you go this route I recommend a complete rebuild prior to installation. Otherwise there are always plenty of brand new ones on Ebay. Many Ebay vendors will ship overseas. All it takes is money.

Hope this helps.
 

Jake59

Active member
139
69
28
Location
Kaggevinne
Well, descided to keep 24V system (changing winch to 12V is also pain) and upgrade to gear reduction. Maybe i am bad at searching but only place, i found 24V gear reduction starter, is Hillbilly Wizard.
Are there other places?
Try here:


This is a 24VDC reduction gear starter.
Saves you outrageous EU import duties.

Don't forget to get yourself the rear end starter mounting bracket, which is not the same as for the original direct drive starter.
Or you can fabricate you own bracket of course.


Jake
 
Last edited:

Jake59

Active member
139
69
28
Location
Kaggevinne
Hello again, was working and searching injectors.
Got remanufactured ones, today removed two old and put new ones in.

Old cyl 1 injector sure enough was rusted stuck and of course full of that wonderful goo... :evil:

View attachment 847246
View attachment 847247
Had a look at these injector nozzles again.
Are all the needles stuck? Corroded? Or just sticking because of the jelly like fuel?
What does this jelly smell like? Frying oil?

Wash them in kerosine, soak them and hey should free up. Be carefull not to bend or snap off the small needle tip sticking out when you pull.
These nozzles really do not look like they are in a bad shape, just need some taking care of.

Jake
 

Rutjes

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Amersfoort, The Netherlands
I have a 24V starter laying around somewhere. It's a gear reduction one. I believe it is Chinese though, but it has only been on my truck for a couple of months. I will not be needing it anymore since I'm going 12V.
 

vanaisa

Active member
140
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Location
Tallinn, Estonia
Oh, this is great. I sent few emails to our 4x4 shops and to Finland. If no results, i definitely buy yours.

Just for fun - found pretty nice truck for sale in Lithuania:

daf-ya-126-other-0.jpg


Pretty army-like :)
 
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