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NAPA part numbers for WMO filter set up.

Kaiserjeeps

Member
459
7
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Location
North Idaho in the woods
Edit, Please see page 5 for researched part numbers for bases and filters to get you started if spin on's are for you..

Edit: these are for a spin on filter set up.
After borrowing some books from the local NAPA I found this info.
Please post your part numbers if you make something and post up.

With costs in mind everything is based on a 4034 base with a 1X12 filter thread. The base is 21 bucks and all others start at about 50 bucks.
The 4034 is an inline mount with no mounting flange. All the others have mounting flanges and cost more.

The first stage will be a 5 GPM racor water removing funnel. Thanks Hammer.
The first filter will be a 4034 base.
Filter is an 1158. 30 micron 6.9 high and bypass set at 18-20 PSI
There are others but they are smaller.

Second stage is a 4034 base and filter choices of... All below are 1x12 threads and #1747 is the biggest.
#1754 16 micron 7.3 inches high, 12-16 GPM
or# 1747 10 micron about 8 inches high, 12 -16 GPM #1789 is a 23 micron
#1462 23 micron 6.9 high 12-16 GPM

I was unable to find a 5 micron or better in a 1 X 12 thread. Do you know of one?
Third stage requires a hydraulic base # 4746 at about 50 bucks. 3/4 inlet and outlet with a 1.5 X 16 filter thread.

Multiple options, These are all 1.5 X 16 threads and the most expensive filters out there. The base is also pricey. See page 5.
#1847 is first choice at 5 micron 11.2 high 40 GPM
# 1847 7 micron 11.2 high at 40 GPM
#1746 5 micron 6.8 high 40 GPM
#1556 6 micron 6.8 high 40 GPM
# 7200 3 micron 6.6 high 40 GPM? I am suspecting this is not right.

There is a fueling water trap filter # 725-8201 base and cartridge 10 micron
refill filter is #725-8202
This has potential.

I am reading hydraulic oil has water in suspension. I have a lot of oil from an old backhoe. Do I need more water removal than the racor filter will provide? YES, you need to heat it and let it sit. Drain off the water later that has precipitated out. A day or three.

I also just found a source for a LOT of WMO. Looks like I am getting on the WMo band wagon.

Hope this helps.

:beer:
 
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oddshot

Active member
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Location
Jasper, Georgia
[FONT=&quot]I was using 86281 and 86418. Both are WIX numbers and should cross over. In front of those was a house filter using a 20 micron filter. [/FONT][FONT=&quot]I was using a WIX mount for each ... [/FONT][FONT=&quot]I don't recall the part number or thread size ... I'll have to look it up.
[/FONT][FONT=&quot]

But I switched out of spin-ons ... I found that the filter sox were a lot cheaper and easier/cleaner to use.
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]

I ended up making a filter bag housing out of a big old fire extinguisher similar to: bag housing | biodiesel supplies

... and I'm using 3 filter socks down to 5 micron.


I also found that WMO filters a LOT faster and easier if you heat it. I use a 220VAC water heater element ... and power it with 110 VAC. Get the element from Home Depot for about $14.00.

I've been heating the oil to just over 100F before pumping.

The only good method I've found for water separation is heat and time. I heat the oil in 20 gallon batches ... I let it heat for a couple hours ... then I let the drum sit for about 5 days ...


[/FONT]
 

Kaiserjeeps

Member
459
7
18
Location
North Idaho in the woods
I just checked the cross over book I borrowed and I could not find the 8 series WIX numbers. The only went as high as 5*****

The wix or Napa 3674 is a 1X14 thread. The base I priced out is 1X12.

How often are people changing the filters (spin on)?

I don't know much about the bag filters. Can you clean them and reuse them or are they a replace as needed? Do they go in a can?

There has to be an optimum set up that is not a million bucks. Thanks for the input.
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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Al, for some cheap pre-filtering, use some of those filters I sent you! When you make your filtering setup, make sure you have a pressure gauge in front of each filter(unless you move to the bag filters). That way you will know which one is getting plugged up. Heating is a good way to get the water out and to help flow through the filters. I have also cut the WMO down with diesel. Feel free to call if you have questions.
 

Kaiserjeeps

Member
459
7
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Location
North Idaho in the woods
I think I am going to want more of those Gimp. I'll send a PM later.
I want to learn about the bag filters before I spring a leak in my bank account.
I'm sure it has been covered. I'll search it up this eve. I can tell something is about to happen. My wallet is getting warm.:mrgreen:
 

Kaiserjeeps

Member
459
7
18
Location
North Idaho in the woods
I have been trying to find out if bag filters are rinseable. Can you wash them in a solvent or do you replace them when they are clogged?

I was all bent on spin on filters. I don't see a centrifuge in my future any time soon. So I am looking at bag filters now. I am also waiting to see some new creations with the promise of pics.

So what is there?

House filters
spin on filters
bag filters
centrifuges
Anything else? I have been and will continue to browse the threads.
 

joshs1ofakindxj

Active member
737
120
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Location
SW PA
I'm using the filter bags from duda diesel. Pretty cheap I think. I just let everything gravity filter and it has been working surprisingly quickly for me.

The only thing I still have to address is water separation.
 

Kaiserjeeps

Member
459
7
18
Location
North Idaho in the woods
Thank you, I really checked out your other post. Thanks for putting the costs and part detail. It is that kind of post that makes the search function work.


I think I need to explain something. After kicking yet another oil tub and spilling some I got to the point of wanting to get this krap out of my way.
Online I went and in full steam ahead mode I went online to find out. I got frustrated after a couple hours searching to see good posts and very few details. I think it showed. Stuck on a spin on set up I wanted to just put all the info in one place so others could gleem. In the process I think I came across as impatient or ? This seems to have shut off potentially good responses. This was not my intention. I have not had the luxury of any free time for much fun this last 2 years. Everybody has their own movie to attend so I won't go into detail. My move generated so much work trying to establish basics that I can't remember the last time I did something fun let alone service my truck.
I was hoping to get a lot of info fast so I could continue my tasks. I see this was a wrong approach. So if I rubbed any of you wrong I am sorry.
I have made more time to search. More stuff is coming up that is great.
I am going to get filter bags and a water trap final. I have learned a lot in the last 48 hours. I just wanted to throw this out there. I had better get back to work here. I never should have spent as much time in the napa books as I did. I know lots of snow is coming and I am not ready.
With that being said, have a good Christmas.
 

Kaiserjeeps

Member
459
7
18
Location
North Idaho in the woods
Well I will start the process by using a racor water trap funnel. So far it seems that bag filters are the best way to go. I did pick up a 1500 watt short H20 heating element. From what I am reading heating and letting it sit brings the water out? Is that what people are doing? I am not clear on this yet.
So funnel it into a small tank to heat it, then through bag filters to 5 micron. I was going to run it through a water catching fuel filter as a last step before the fuel tank. Does anyone see any problems with this ?

In my Napa searching I found this water absorbing filter and base. Tuthill 725-8201 The refill is 725-8202
It is on sale till the end of the month for 33 bucks. It includes a base with 3/4 fittings and short 5 inch pipe and a filter.

NAPA AUTO PARTS

It is 10 micron. I ordered one with a spare filter. The filter was 13 ish ?
With a 5 micron filter bag the hydrosorb will not have to do much filtering particulate. It can collect water hopefully with out getting clogged from junk.
I'll need to probably dig up a pump to move the WMO through the last filter.
If it proves to not work that well or long I will find something else. I am open to suggestions.
 
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gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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Location
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Yes heating it will remove emulsified(sp?) water from the oil. If you let the oil sit, the "free" water will settle to the bottom so you can drain it off. I use a barrel pump to pump the oil through my filters. I have a pressure gauge on each filter to know when one plugs up. I also watch the psi while pumping, as pressures over 120 will crush the filter element(or blow out a seal making a mess). In the past I have cut the WMO, hydro, etc with pump diesel so it pumps through the filters better(if you don't it will pump SLOW), so I am getting ready to make a heating tank not only to help it flow, but to remove the water.

You have to be careful with a gear pump to pump the oil, it is hard to adjust the pressure of the output as others(like Kipman) have found out.
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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Location
Cincy Ohio
You'll have to find what fits your needs. I got mine(2) from a GL auction for $60. Yes, GL didn't always have a $150 min bid. I know some guys using the horrible freight pumps, but they use more air than my Balcrank pump.
 

Kaiserjeeps

Member
459
7
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Location
North Idaho in the woods
Horrible Freight! Now thats funny! Did you see the post on pulling the oil rather than pushing? I dug up several metal containers tonight and picked up my hydrosorb filter assembly.
I'll be stinking up the hill in no time. And putting up signs for WMO. Jk..

Will work for what?:D
 
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srodocker

Well-known member
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Location
Lacey, Washington
i use the horriable freight barrel pump with a 5 micron filter. it works for me but takes awhile to setup if im pumping from a source.

im debating on what i want to do for collecting oil. i can collect it from a few places right now but its a pain and im trying to buy a house and decided to wait on collecting.

but im thinking of getting a 12v utility pump that connects to a battery and just pumping it from barrel to barrel. or getting a bed crane with a barrel lift on it. and these methods would be used with no filters
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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Yes I saw the post on pulling rather than pushing. As I said in an earlier post, I used what I had available. SO pushing it is. I agree pulling would probably work better. Yes I can't "turn it on and walk away" but the money it saves me is worth the time. When I collect oil, I just go get it. I worry about filtering once I get home. If you just put a tube on the pump with no filter, you'd be surprised at how fast it goes.
 
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