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Off Grid

Lextreme

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The setup is down. I am running my 80 qt freezer 24/7. All 5 batteries are connected and being charged by the solar panels. Propane lines are installed and leak tested. Ready for a long trip.
 

tbearatkin

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SouthWestTennessee
I got a 80 cu inch 12v/110 freezer that will pull 1 amp and 80w. So my batteries should able to support that plus few other goodies. I will be installing 200w from the solar panel. Here are the installation pictures...

If that is1 amp at 110V does that not equal almost 10Amps at 12 volts?
 

Lextreme

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If that is1 amp at 110V does that not equal almost 10Amps at 12 volts?
I hope this link help: 80 Qt Portable Chest Freezer Refrigerator Compact 12V DC AC Power Cooler | eBay


  • EdgeStar FP861 12V DC Portable Fridge / Freezer
  • 80 Quart Capacity: Includes Small & Large Wire Baskets
  • Compressor-Based Cooling: Fast -8°F Flash Freeze Function
  • Temperature Range: From -8°F to 50°F
  • Portable Design: Side-Grip Handles Make Transportation Easy
  • Durable & Rugged: A Perfect Design For Outdoor Adventures
  • Rounded Edges: So It's Safe For The Entire Family
  • Additional Features: ETL Approved, Insulated Lid
  • Warranty: 1 Year Parts + 90 Days Labor

  • Operates As A Portable Freezer -OR- Refrigerator
  • Voltage Power: 12 Volt DC -OR- Standard AC Power
  • Adjustable Thermostat: Via Easy-To-Use Control Panel
  • 12V Power Cord: 6 Foot Detachable 12/24V Power Cord
  • 115V Power Cord: 8 Foot Detachable 115V Power Cord
  • AC Power Consumption: 80 Watts ~ 1 Amp
  • Large Basket Internal Dimensions: 12.8"H x 18.9"W x 15.5"D
  • Small Basket Internal Dimensions: 12.8"H x 10.4"W x 7.5"D
  • External Dimensions: 23.2"H x 28.2"W x 18.8"D - 66 lbs.

  • Extra Large Capacity: With 80 Quarts Of Storage, The FP861 Can Hold Food & Drinks For The Entire Family.
  • Full Range Thermostat: The FP861 Can Both Freeze & Refrigerate Your Food & Perishable Goods.
  • Fast Freeze Function: A Quick Push Of The Fast Freeze Button Cools The Compartment Down To -8°F In A Matter Of Minutes.
  • AC & DC Cords Included: With The Included Adapters, You Can Run This Unit Off Of The Cigarette Lighter In Your Car -OR- From Any Outlet In Your House.
  • Insulated Metal Walls: With Insulated Walls, You Can Keep Your Goods Cold Long After The Power's Gone.
 

jeeplvr247

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That is an impressive truck. Rather than towing a M105 to protect your batteries you should get yourself a 105mm Howitzer. People will think twice about tailgating you when they are staring down the barrel of an artillery piece.
 

Lextreme

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That is an impressive truck. Rather than towing a M105 to protect your batteries you should get yourself a 105mm Howitzer. People will think twice about tailgating you when they are staring down the barrel of an artillery piece.
Now u tell me....

I am extremely happy with the setup. It is officially unplugged my 240V from the house where it is parking. It is completely on its own/stand alone powered. The only think it need a generator for is AC. I have a 12V heater and loving it.
 

LowTech

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Now u tell me....

I am extremely happy with the setup. It is officially unplugged my 240V from the house where it is parking. It is completely on its own/stand alone powered. The only think it need a generator for is AC. I have a 12V heater and loving it.
I know that feeling, all this year we've been un-plugged :)
We run little enough draw that we are running on 2 6v interstates. We're also using that fridge/freezer and have been happy w/ it.
 

Robo McDuff

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Seems like a nice project. Some points with the placing of the tank and batteries though.
1) That high up, doesn't it bring your tank high up exposed to the full power of the sun when not driving?

2) Propane and butane are heavier than air, so escaping gas will go down. Outside is no prob. but what about leakage of your lines into the truck? I would make sure I have some venting holes in the bottom of your living space.

3) A truck rear-ending a screen full of batteries is also not a nice view. Better put some danger signs on that screen so, in case of accidents or a roll-over, leo's and firefighters know what the liquid is that is escaping from a deformed (batteries damaged and leaking) but still closed screen (nobody sees the batteries) is not drinking water but a liquid hazard to touch that will eat through your gloves and cloths like nothing.

Having said that, very nice. My late brother would have loved it, he always had his living boat (100 years old cargo barge) full of such stuff to make it float-alone and independent.
 
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BAZYRKYR

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Maryland
I already have two additional batteries and now adding 3 more. I am running out of space. So made a 12 gauge box with 3 slots dedicated for batteries, one slot for solar charge controller and lowest part for solar dump load. I also got a 10 gallon propane tank sits on top of the whole.

I also have two file type of locks for the battery door and on Master lock for the propane tank. Installation is next.
I am soooo glad I ran across this because I'm getting ready to put solar power in my M109RV and this can be rather confusing at times even though I was an electrician for about 6 year...years ago. Do you happen to have any recommendations? I'm wanting to have enough power to run a small home in my M109RV....I guess equivalent to a 5500 watt LP generator.
 

Lextreme

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SGV Ca.
Seems like a nice project. Some points with the placing of the tank and batteries though.

1) That high up, doesn't it bring your tank high up exposed to the full power of the sun when not driving? .
When I built this system I have consider the heat and propane expansion. The tank is 10 gallon (40 lbs). It is double the size of the standard BBQ tank but it is skinnier. I always tell the gas attendent to fill only 9 gallon so leave some room for heat expansion. However, right now it is winter and not that hot. Even with summer 9 gallon will be fine. Secondly, there is a safety relief valve in even tank. So it the pressure is too high due to heat, it will release itself.

2) Propane and butane are heavier than air, so escaping gas will go down. Outside is no prob. but what about leakage of your lines into the truck? I would make sure I have some venting holes in the bottom of your living space. .
I have tested for all leakage but couldnt any. I only turn on the propane when I am stopped and cooking. Otherwise, it will be completely off and the lines will be bleed before driving. Secondly, all lines never enter the living spaces. I dont cook inside the camper. I have good fittings and properly installed and double check everything. Even high pressure propane is only about 20 psi.

3) A truck rear-ending a screen full of batteries is also not a nice view. Better put some danger signs on that screen so, in case of accidents or a roll-over, leo's and firefighters know what the liquid is that is escaping from a deformed (batteries damaged and leaking) but still closed screen (nobody sees the batteries) is not drinking water but a liquid hazard to touch that will eat through your gloves and cloths like nothing. .
I am sure LEO and firefighters know what to do with damaged batteries. I have seen battery damage even at regular passenger cars with severe impact. I place the tank high enough perhaps 99.5% of car/truck wont able to reach. Once again, lines are bleed before driving.

Having said that, very nice. My late brother would have loved it, he always had his living boat (100 years old cargo barge) full of such stuff to make it float-alone and independent.
Thanks and thank you for your comments. I have considered all of your points above before making this.

I am soooo glad I ran across this because I'm getting ready to put solar power in my M109RV and this can be rather confusing at times even though I was an electrician for about 6 year...years ago. Do you happen to have any recommendations? I'm wanting to have enough power to run a small home in my M109RV....I guess equivalent to a 5500 watt LP generator.
I debated about this isse in my head for few weeks. Bottom line is warranty. Costco give 100 months warranty on the batteries and great return policy on other items including solar panels. Anything go wrong I know they would back up the exchange or return. 100 months is 8.3 years... I would check batteries every year or so to test the functionality if no up to par I can also take them back to Costco.

I ran everything with 12V or 12V to 110V inverted. I only use generator for AC. I have 12V heater, all LED lights both interior and exterior, TV, Ccomputer, PS3, Ham Radio, electronics charging and so on.
 
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Robo McDuff

In memorial Ron - 73M819
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... I am sure LEO and firefighters know what to do with damaged batteries. I have seen battery damage even at regular passenger cars with severe impact. I place the tank high enough perhaps 99.5% of car/truck wont able to reach. Once again, lines are bleed before driving.


Thanks and thank you for your comments. I have considered all of your points above before making this.
I did not thought you would have done it this thoroughly without considering a lot of options and probable problems. Never hurts to say it and it might trow up some things that other people doing similar things have not thought about. I am also sure that professionals know what to do (or better, what not to do) with batteries etc. It was more like something is leaking and maybe in the hurry a professional or somebody else helping out does not realize soon enough what is happening. It like with so many things, we are not talking about the 99% where we took precautions but about that one freak situation out of the blue.
 

Lextreme

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Picture # 1: Diplaying 3 batteries with solar/Wind Charge Controller on top. You also see lower portion of the tank.

Picture # 2: Is the bottom view of the dump load coils. I mouted two under the batteries for heat ventilation. FYI all shelves in the box for the batteries are vented.

Picture # 3: Are the solar panels from Costco. They are 100w each. I bolted them down to the roof so they wont move. I really dont feel like getting up to the roof and adjust the angle during the sun. Too much hassel for me that is.

Picture # 4: is the over view of the whole setup with two lines coming out. One is electrical (running (2) 6 guage wires - & +) to the front batteries and few other accessory power lines. Second line is a hard pipe that is 6 feet long running from the tank to the bottome.

Picture # 5: a close up picture of the 1/4" push in barr fitting.

Picture # 6: One of the two outlets for propane. It is intergrated with the box sheet metal. It is a clean and stable setup.


I went out this morning and measure the bumper height of my Acura MDX is 33" and my lowest part of the battery is 66" and the bottom of propane is 100"
 

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LowTech

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Arizona
Seems like a nice project. Some points with the placing of the tank and batteries though.
1) That high up, doesn't it bring your tank high up exposed to the full power of the sun when not driving?

2) Propane and butane are heavier than air, so escaping gas will go down. Outside is no prob. but what about leakage of your lines into the truck? I would make sure I have some venting holes in the bottom of your living space.
Propane has been run inside RV, Campers, trailer houses, etc. for decades. All of my builds have propane run to the inside. If you look around you'll see many trailers, campers and house, that have the tanks sitting on the front tung, often in the sun. Some now have covers (more for looks than to block the heat) and all have "over pressure vents".

Lex - something to think about. Our outside propane conctions have a shut-off valve & a valved quick release. Makes it real easy to connect and use.
 

Robo McDuff

In memorial Ron - 73M819
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Do you run everything on 12 or 24 volt or do you also have a 110 V converter installed? I know my brother had one (220 in our case). When stand-alone, he could run also a Desktop PC's and other 220 volt stuff of his power circuit. When he was along land, he connected to the regular net run the normal lights and the converter loaded his batteries as well.
 
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