optimizer long block - hummer 24V or cucv 24v

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Barrman

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I had the same issues Rich. The smallest hard to find one was at the water pump backing plate to the pump. I think your rate of loss could just be the test pump baffles/seals or even the radiator cap seal on the adaptor.

Did you ever figure out the Dalton date code code? It turns out the broken GEP engine I picked up from Warthog a few months ago has Dalton heads. At least they have the same circle D with an F on it that yours do. Block is Navistar though and a 2006.
 

richingalveston

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I did not get the date code info figured out. I was told they started Dalton somewhere around 2014 so you must have a rebuild that they put new heads on. Is the motor good?

I am now in need of exhaust. I am looking at doing it myself. The local shops just want to do replacement or kit installs. They will replace the exhaust on my dads f250 ford powerstroke with 4 inch because it is a kit they can buy and install it with maybe two welds. if they had to bend it themselves they would be lost.

I don't have the tools so I will have to buy all the bends, cut and weld it myself but I have small wire feed welder that I need to get some use out of so it looks like it will be up to me. I was hoping to find a shop so I could get it done quick. Looks like it is going to take some time. I am going to check around college station to see if I can find anyone that is willing to do some custom work.

It is ready to start once I get the cross over installed
 

Barrman

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There is a shop in LaGrange called American Muffler. Old guy owns and runs it. If you tell him you will be paying in cash when you walk in the door. He is very agreeable. He has made a bunch of bends for me and end flares. I just bend a coat hanger in the shape I need, show up with cash and tell him I need it in X inch matching the shape. I haven't been by there in a few years though.

I'm pretty sure Warthog picked this GEP engine up in 2011. They are not GM or Navistar heads. It had thrown a rod which put a hole in the pan and knocked some metal off the inside lip of #1 and #2 cylinder walls. Local machine shop has the crank right now seeing if it can be made to work. He thinks and I agree that some careful die grinder work on the block will make it ok to run. I am doing that in my class. I will know if it is good or not in a few months when we get done building it.
 

richingalveston

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I seem to be having trouble getting the start to turn without some terrible noise. I shimmed the starter using up to 1/4 inch of shims. Starting with none and adding them 1/32 at time and it makes no difference in starter noise. not grinding just squealing really bad.

Also the Bendix gear does not return back into the start after each start, I have to turn the torque converter backwards to get the Bendix to release from starter.
I have all the glow plugs out and ip unplugged, just trying to circulate fluids but starter is not cooperating.

I have two starters, both do the same thing, both have good Bendix gears not perfect but no reason they should not work

any suggestions, flex plate is brand new, matched up to old perfect so not sure what is going on, never had this much problem with a starter
 

scottladdy

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I thought they did away with the shim type starters years ago. You only needed shims for the old style. I can't remember if the no shim style was a different nose cone for the starter, and won't be near my manuals until later today. Sorry I could not be more help.
 

richingalveston

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fender cut and flare

I tried some more with no luck on the starter. I may purchase a newer model gear reduction to see if it makes a difference. I have two direct drive units both in good shape so I hate to have to change to a different starter. I also don't want to throw money at it and not work.

being frustrated I decided to work on my fenders today. I cut them to where I made the back of the wheel opening closest to the cab 4 inches wider and flared the fender at the bottom about 2 inches and they still look somewhat factory. I did this cut a while back and just had screws in it to hold it together. I got it all welded today and now ready for the bondo.

I have a little more work to do on one of them and then I will do the initial bondo with the fenders off and possibly the final sand with them mounted so I can make sure the lines are good.
My welding is not the best, my wire feed on my welder is a little jerky so I could not get the best lines. however it is definitely not coming apart and the bondo will easily take care of my dirt dobber work. It may be a week or two before I get to the bondo so I have to put a coat of paint on everything until I am ready to work on it again. Sanding paint is easier than rust.
Rich
 

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richingalveston

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I really like your tires and rims, I like mine also, not as tall as yours but 39's are ok in my book.

I have Michilin xzl 11 wide by 39 tall, bought 6 new and two used so I have two sets. The half tread ones will be going on the truck once it is finished. I just wanted the new ones for the build. I will wear the used ones out first.

they don't make these anymore in 16 inch rims so once they are done, I will have to find another tire.

I like my rims also, they are the Hutchinson aluminum bead locks from border patrol vehicles and I have made my own PVC inserts so they are double bead locked.

Currently if I went with any taller tire, I would need to re-gear. With the 4l80e, I am running some pretty low highway rpms.

Keep the rims and get you some electric steps.
 

richingalveston

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I was able to get the fenders mostly complete. I got the bondo on for the most part. They need some sanding in spots and some touch up but I will wait to get them on the truck to do the final finishing. To me they still look factory since I was able to retain the inner lip of the fender. From the back screw in the front blinker to the back of the fender well I have about 43 inches. I wish I would have taken the same measurement prior to the cut but did not. I believe I added 5 inches to the opening and I flared the back of the fender out about 3 inches. I like the way it is turning out.

I also got my home made turbo elbow back from the Machine shop. They blasted it and milled the mounting surfaces. all the welding warped the pieces so that the mounting surfaces had about 3/16's of a bow. The angle I started with was very thick so it was no problem getting it milled down. They found one hole for which I have already fixed. I also cleaned the inside out as best as possible. I would not say it is ported and polished but it should work well in my application.
 

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richingalveston

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Well the redux starter is doing the same thing as my other two. I unbolted the torque converter and found the flex plate wobbles real bad. when I was bolting it to the flex plate I noticed some of the bolts were harder to tighten than the others.

I think my brand new flex plate is bad. I think it is causing the poor starter line up.
When the torque converter is connected it straightens the flex plat out but it could still be running at an angle.

unless anyone has any better ideas, I think I am going to have to pull the flex plate and swap it out.

all starters that I install do the same thing. 3 different starters. two direct drive and one gear redux.
The starter squeals real loud and the Bendix does not return, it sticks in flex plate.
tried to get a video but my file was to large.
Thanks,
Richard Lloyd
 

richingalveston

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after a long break from the truck due to work, I finally had a couple days to work on it and I am now completely frustrated. I changed the flex plate to use the one that came off of my 6.2. I know it was good with no issues. I am also using the starter that came from the 6.2. Both were working well together with no issues while on the 6.2

I have tried every shim option and I cannot keep the starter from squealing really loud and the gear sticks into the flex plate. Two different flex plates and three different starters, all with the same result.

I am now trying to figure out how to measure the bolt holes and see if I can determine if they are machined out of square or possibly to far towards the back of the motor. when the gear throws into the flex plate it bottoms out and I think that may be causing it to jamb and stick. I need to see if the nose cone can be shimmed to keep the starter gear from going so deep into the flex plate gear

I am open to all suggestions. My next step is to pull the motor back out of the truck and see if I can get the starter working while on the engine stand.

I have now had the motor for a year and cannot get it finished. first delay was broken bolt hole on head and now I cannot get any starter to work.
still trying.
Rich
 

Barrman

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Dang Rich. I am sorry to read this. I have wanted to write or call the last few months but figured the hurricane and its clean up had you running too much to sleep, much less think about the truck.

Do you want a bare 6.5 GM block to compare measurements with? I have one here in my class that I can bring home and you can come pick up. Sometime next week would be best.
 

richingalveston

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I am going to compare it to my 6.2 first, I might take you up on measuring the 6.5 but I will see what the 6.2 looks like.

I have started to pull the engine, I am going to get it back on the stand where I can see things better and not have the tranny in the way.

yes, I have been real busy in Houston due to the flooded houses. I am almost done and plan to be back in college station a lot more.

My next trip I really want to get your starter back to you so if colton is in CS, I may be able to get it to him.

If I have to come see the 6.5 block I will bring the starter then, I think I could get the measurements off of it without having to take it with me.

Thanks for the offer, I will keep you informed.

Probably going to be a couple weeks before I have the engine out and on the stand. I only get a little time at night to work on it at this time.
 
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