Truck shutting off after driving/ return valve?

[Iamnewatthis]

You mentioned earlier in this thread that your engine ran quieter after cleaning the return valve? Mine rattles a little more after warmed up then it used to. It runs great but is just a little noisier than it was. Did you have this issue before you went through everything? Thanks in advance for any help.

Yes it was dying out and the return valve was the first thing we all thought it might be,
i cleaned it and only thought, it might be quieter. It for sure was shifting smoother.
No doubt on that. Though some argued over shift points and what not.
I tried to get a new return valve with the local shop ordering the wrong one at first, then the old bugger who owned the joint got mad at me and tried to charge me double for the right one. I told them no thanks. Got a whole new IP online, which came with its own new return valve anyway.
Anyway, if its shifting hard, aside from checking the tranny fluid and that the vaccume pump isn't loose, clean the return valve. As far as noise, i wasnt 100% sure on that.
Good luck.

 

[semocoachworks]

Ok thank you. I read through this whole thread last night and it answered a lot of my questions. Thanks again for the info.

 

[Iamnewatthis]

Holy smokes batman, I may have just discovered a clue.

Two things i noticed today.
1. The ignition/lock tumbler, when i wiggle it, contact with everything goes in and out. Dash lights, volt meter. Just ever so slightly and all power will shut off, like you turned the truck off, but you didnt.

2. The brake peddle does the same exact thing, if i step on it when its idleing it shuts off. At first I thought it was because i was putting it in gear, but then i threw it in gear without touching the brake peddle and it did not shut off! If i step on the brake, it shuts off, if i push against the side of the brake peddle with my foot, it remains on, or hot if i am trying to start it. Thats why its so hard to start, if the key is not held forward and alowed to have slack, i loose contact and power, if the brake peddle is not pushed to the side with my foot i loose contact and truck shuts off.
I only discovered it while i was starting it real quick while waiting for my family to go to dinner.
Just thought i would jump in and crank her up and see if i noticed anything. they walked out, and we had to go before i could find out WHY this is happening.
I will let you guys know what i can figure out.
Unless someone else knows why a jiggly ignition key or brake pedal shuts off the power?

 

[998Junkie]

Unless someone else knows why a jiggly ignition key or brake pedal shuts off the power?

I've been watching this one and I admire your persistence. With no power I would think the fuel solenoid would cut the fuel off. As far as the brake pedal, there would be two places I can think of, the brake light switch and maybe a short or other issue. You should look at the wiring chart.

 

[Iamnewatthis]

I've been watching this one and I admire your persistence. With no power I would think the fuel solenoid would cut the fuel off. As far as the brake pedal, there would be two places I can think of, the brake light switch and maybe a short or other issue. You should look at the wiring chart.

I know thats what i was thinking too, fuel solenoid.
With new IP though?

Im crawling under there today and looking around.
Let you guys know.

 

[cucv1833]

Yeah i thought my stalling problems was the Fuel cut off solenoid having a short in it at first when my problems started so i hooked up a 12v light on the dash connected to the pink solenoid wire
Then i drove around for a few days and when it died the light never shut off so i went back to thinking it was fuel related. maybe this will help you. Sound like your having complete power failure.

 

[998Junkie]

I know thats what i was thinking too, fuel solenoid.
With new IP though?

Im crawling under there today and looking around.
Let you guys know.

It's not an IP or even the solenoid, you have an electrical issue that is cutting the power to the solenoid, if the power is cutting off. You could put all new stuff in and if you haven't fixed the electrical issue then you are still going to have the same problem. I think you are really close now.

 

[Iamnewatthis]

It's not an IP or even the solenoid, you have an electrical issue that is cutting the power to the solenoid, if the power is cutting off. You could put all new stuff in and if you haven't fixed the electrical issue then you are still going to have the same problem. I think you are really close now.

Thank you and man I hope so.
I did replace the ignition switch along time ago, maybe they sold me the wrong one.
Im gonna look at it as well as anything to do with brake peddle, bent/broke wires, grounds, etc. Now that i can make it happen with peddle and key, my confidence is higher.

Keep you guys posted.

 

[mistaken1]

Like cucv1833 said. You could hook a temporary wire to the pink wire and use that to run light to see if it is loosing power but based on what you said the entire truck is loosing electrical power so I think that answers your question.

Another option would be to run a fused wire from the 12V battery to the pink wire on the IP. You will not be able to shut the engine off until you remove that wire from the battery (or put a switch inline with that wire). If the truck keeps running I would say you have confirmed an electrical problem.

 

[Iamnewatthis]

I am back. I replaced the IP with a new one. And the cold idle advance. That makes almost the entire fuel system. New injectors too.
Finally realized it might be a short to ground.
When I start it, if i step on the brake peddle, it cuts out, not dies out, cuts off, like it has to do with brake light switch or something.
Also, the key ignition cylinder, its very loose, if the weight of the keys rotates it to the rear just a bit, it cuts out. It doesnt have to go to the off position, just back a little, and it cuts out. Truck runs real strong, real well, when idleing or driving. But when i hit the brakes, or bump the keys, out. I've made it happen on purpose, and i can keep it from happening, so thats what i believe the problem is. Also, i replaced the igintion switch along time ago when i had an electrical problem.
Anyone run into this before? When it stops being 110 in the shade, i'll go back to work on it. Havent touched it since my last post, too hot, too busy. But will get on it again soon.
thanks. joe

 

[soule64]

I hope I am not sending you on a wild goose chase, but I had something very similar happen to my '68 C-10. I had rebuilt the truck from the ground up and installed a new Painless complete wiring harness as well as a new steering column (column wiring pre-installed). It worked fine at first, but after a year, every time I stepped on the brake, the stop light fuse would snap immediately. I suck at electrical work, but managed to trace the short up through the steering column to the turn signal switch. Sure enough, when the column was assembled they had oriented the wire harness so that it was pinched by the steering wheel adapter. The brake light wire had scorch marks from arcing and there were two more (not sure which) that had insulation nearly worn through, so they were getting close to grounding, too. I know that the CUCV column is not the same as the '68, but it might be worth looking at.

 

[mr.travo]

Ok Joe-

I just read through 12 pages of your "fun having". I am ready to hear "the rest of the story" (as Paul Harvey would say), LOL! Seriously, did you trace it to the ignition? Did you figure out why your brake pedal was killing it?

Just wanted to know because I'm nosy!

 

[Iamnewatthis]

Well, found a loose ground, fixed it. It started, it ran. Now it wont start again.
Parking it before I just loose it and light it on fire.
Guess it will sit all winter.

 

[wes935]

Thank you and man I hope so.
I did replace the ignition switch along time ago, maybe they sold me the wrong one.
Im gonna look at it as well as anything to do with brake peddle, bent/broke wires, grounds, etc. Now that i can make it happen with peddle and key, my confidence is higher.

Keep you guys posted.

You said you replaced the ignition switch already. You might check to make sure the plug on the steering column is still completely plugged in.

Have you replaced the key cylinder? Take a look at the TM-20 figures F-3 (Engine Compartment Ignition Circuits) and F-4 (Cab Ignition Circuits). The fuel shut-off switch looks like it is controlled through the ignition switch. If the ignition switch is controlled through the key cylinder and the key cylinder is not making a good connection, would it not be possible for the shut-off switch to activate? Just a thought.

 

[Iamnewatthis]

You said you replaced the ignition switch already. You might check to make sure the plug on the steering column is still completely plugged in.

Have you replaced the key cylinder? Take a look at the TM-20 figures F-3 (Engine Compartment Ignition Circuits) and F-4 (Cab Ignition Circuits). The fuel shut-off switch looks like it is controlled through the ignition switch. If the ignition switch is controlled through the key cylinder and the key cylinder is not making a good connection, would it not be possible for the shut-off switch to activate? Just a thought.

I think you may have helped me solve my problem.
I did check the plug in on the ignition switch, its good.
However, I think it is the lock cylinder. Its loose. I drove the truck a year before it started cutting out. It started after i replaced ignition switch and to be honest i didnt pay much attention to how those rods in the steering colume were, or the lock cyl. I think it is the cylinder. Man I hope so, i have done so much to this truck, if i can fix this, it will be good for another 25 years. It has been sitting all winter, and when i look at it, well it bums me out. The weather is supposed to be good this weekend. Im getting after that lock cylinder. thank you very much, you may have helped me big time.

 

[wes935]

Let me know if this works for you.

I have been lurking here for about a year and looking through the TM's to absorb knowledge....I just don't post very often.

Still trying to get my M1009 in top shape. I recovered it last March out of Saginaw, TX. Going to do a spin-on filter mod. sometime in the next week or so if the weather hold like it is. My stock filter base is leaking causing hard starting after sitting. Next will be the fuel sending unit in the tank (with new hoses) because my fuel guage is not reading correctly.
I learned alot after following your thread.

 

[Iamnewatthis]

Let me know if this works for you.

I have been lurking here for about a year and looking through the TM's to absorb knowledge....I just don't post very often.

Still trying to get my M1009 in top shape. I recovered it last March out of Saginaw, TX. Going to do a spin-on filter mod. sometime in the next week or so if the weather hold like it is. My stock filter base is leaking causing hard starting after sitting. Next will be the fuel sending unit in the tank (with new hoses) because my fuel guage is not reading correctly.
I learned alot after following your thread.

Yes I did that too. I did fuel tank, sending unit, all the rubber sections of fuel line, fuel pump, did spin on filter base, injection pump, injectors, return lines (tygon), glow plugs. Lots more but thats what i did in relation to fuel system.
My problem has to be electrical.

 

[BIG_RED]

Find a way to get +12 volts to the fuel solenoid and your electric fuel pump without using any of the vehicles wiring (connect DIRECTLY to the front battery). Make SURE the front battery is grounded properly. Make sure that when you run your electric fuel pump, the IP fills with fuel (take the top cover off, drain it, apply power to fuel pump, watch IP). THEN try driving. The wonderful thing about a diesel is there is no ignition.. just fuel and power to the solenoid. I've been where you are.. too me a year to sort out. Stay strong! Good Luck!

 

[Abbylind]

Man, by the time your done you could have taken the radiator cap off this truck and drove another one under it. Nice persistence! Hope you get the electrical gremlin!

 

[stampy]

Any updates? You didn't torch it did you?