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What did you do to your deuce this week?

Rmtaunton

Well-known member
1,510
31
48
Location
Smyrna, ga
Installed the 12v inverter two fuse blocks 1, 24v and put in a master accesory switch , below the main power switch so I can't forget to turn it offImageUploadedByTapatalk1412547835.123803.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1412547846.130820.jpg

Still have to do some wire clean up but all is working
 
Last edited:

brianp454

Member
572
11
18
Location
Portland, OR
I finally got a chance to have a little “truck time.”

Drained the transmission and transfer case fluids and gave them a week to finish dripping out. Used brake fluid to spray into the bottom of the transmission to wash the sludge and metal powder out of it. The transfer case had a magnetic drain plug, but the transmission did not, so I added one. I found it at the local heavy truck GMC and Peterbuilt place for $5.50 each - Magnetic drain plugs DANA-Spicer 054254, OAL: 3/4 - 14 NPT also found cross reference number s of ETN054254 FULX121202 X12-1202 X-12-1202 586049C1 1250-E-473 Newstar S-5753 Grainger 4CCE9. Also found them online at cgenterprises.com part number 3035m $1.69\EA (3/4 NPT for transmission and differentials) and 3028m $8.25\EA (1 ¼ NPT for transfer case).

Note I ordered these online before realizing the transfer case already had one, dunno if they typically did.

While fluids were out removed the slow-leaking plate on the back of the transmission (see post # 2834). The gasket was OK yet found the holes go through and did not have RTV or anything on them. So I cleaned them real good and re-assembled with a bit of RTV on the threads. Let sit a couple days to make sure the RTV set up before filling the fluid.

Filled the transmission and transfer case with new NAPA 75213 GL-5 80W-90 gear oil (5 gallon bucket ). The transmission took 8.5 pints and was about ¼ inch from the fill plug. The transfer case started spilling out at 10.5 pints. I was expecting it to take more, but it did not. Is this the same for others that have done this?

Fully rebuilt my old air pack. The air side was clean and in great shape, but the hydraulic side had gobs of rust particles and sludge in it. I replaced all wheel cylinders and master cylinder in April. Can that rust be coming from the inside of my brake lines?

Went through most of the lube order and used up a tube of grease. Didn’t quite finish all of it. Maybe next time.

Got a different speedo cable box and installed it. Unfortunately it seems to be the same or make a very small difference (hoped it would read properly with my 365/80R20's). Back to the drawing board…
 

MikeM35

New member
14
0
0
Location
Pennsylvania
Made a small fuel adjustment, Fixed an air leak inside the cab, documented "rehaluling" tags, finished up my steering gear box and fixed the fuel gauge sender problem. wooo!
 

nchittendon

Active member
544
28
28
Location
La Crosse, Wisconsin
A couple of weeks ago I used my deuce for a work function. It was an employee appreciation day. Bounce houses, food, truck rides, hay rides, etc.....

They had an old John Deere tractor that ran on LP pulling the hay wagon. One day, my boss saw my truck and asked, "did you drive that thing to work?" To which I replied, "nope, I pushed it." He came out and looked at it and volunteered me for truck rides for the event.

Lucky he did. The tractor's wagon got a flat, and we didn't have anything to fix it. The picture shows a group of about 10 people. Once that wagon broke, I was hauling people like crazy. Most at one time was 27 and one in the jump seat. It was a huge hit!

And I'm glad to say that every trip the truck was shut off, and every trip she fired up flawlessly over, and over, and over again.


2014Aug23_Kwik Trip 2014 family Day DC_0645.jpg
 

MikeM35

New member
14
0
0
Location
Pennsylvania
Filled it the rest of the way up with cornhead grease I only had a couple tubes when I drained the 90 weight oil put another tube and a half in
 
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