What have you done to your FMTV or LMTV today

dxhend2

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Escondido, CA
Starting to insulate the cab (aka the 94 dB EZ Bake Oven), starting with Lizard Skin sound control; ceramic insulation next week for heat, then some Dynamat hood liner. The Lizard Skin is easy to apply, and easy to clean up (water based). So far, seems to really work based on just a "tap test" (rap on an uninsulated steel panel - great steel drum effect. Rap on the Lizard Skin - very muffled thud). I might also spray the back wall of the cab and the roof inside - those are both big sound and heat radiators. Have some Kilmat for doors and other interior, as well. After getting that all done, will do another road test with the sound level meter to see how it does.
 

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Berend

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Starting to insulate the cab (aka the 94 dB EZ Bake Oven), starting with Lizard Skin sound control; ceramic insulation next week for heat, then some Dynamat hood liner. The Lizard Skin is easy to apply, and easy to clean up (water based). So far, seems to really work based on just a "tap test" (rap on an uninsulated steel panel - great steel drum effect. Rap on the Lizard Skin - very muffled thud). I might also spray the back wall of the cab and the roof inside - those are both big sound and heat radiators. Have some Kilmat for doors and other interior, as well. After getting that all done, will do another road test with the sound level meter to see how it does.
The A1 and A1R originally have some sound insulation “paint” on the back wall inside . It’s different from the A0 Cabs that are just bare metal. If you press it with your nail you feel it’s somewhat soft.


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Starting to insulate the cab (aka the 94 dB EZ Bake Oven), starting with Lizard Skin sound control; ceramic insulation next week for heat, then some Dynamat hood liner. The Lizard Skin is easy to apply, and easy to clean up (water based). So far, seems to really work based on just a "tap test" (rap on an uninsulated steel panel - great steel drum effect. Rap on the Lizard Skin - very muffled thud). I might also spray the back wall of the cab and the roof inside - those are both big sound and heat radiators. Have some Kilmat for doors and other interior, as well. After getting that all done, will do another road test with the sound level meter to see how it does.
That looks great, I am doing the same to mine starting Tuesday. Curios, why did you tape off the rubber flaps instead of drilling the rivets out?
 

dxhend2

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Escondido, CA
That looks great, I am doing the same to mine starting Tuesday. Curios, why did you tape off the rubber flaps instead of drilling the rivets out?
Sorry for delay, was offline for a bit. No particular reason, it just seemed easier to do it that way. Overall, it turned out well. Haven't had a chance to get some actual measurements, but so far sounds a lot quieter.
 

Floridianson

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Well since the cooler weather is coming thought since I do not use the 1088 I would let it hibernate. Charged up the batteries, toped off fuel tank to the least amount of expansion level left in the tank plus plastic bags taped off on exhaust and intake. Sleep little one sleep and dream of What Dreams May Come.
 
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Mullaney

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Charlotte NC
FINALLY got my passenger window repaired. It would "kinda work" sometimes. Crank it up and about 4 inches from the top it would stop. Window had popped out of the track that supports it. I have broken so many things being too aggressive over the years - so I finally asked for help. Suprman (Will) sells door parts and a lot of other stuff along with reprogramming CTIS controllers, so I asked how to get the window crank off. Couple of minutes and with some good advise, I was off solving the problem!

Turns out to be really simple. Just perfect for somebody who just goes nuts and starts yanking on it... I tugged on the plastic and it popped right off. Same thing for the door handle cover. Took more time to remove all the little screws that hold the door panel on than it took to put the window back in the track. Mine was still plenty "sticky" so I just pressed it back in place. Works Great!!

.Door Handle HowToRemove.jpg

Door Window Crank - HowToRemove.jpg
 

dxhend2

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
95
21
8
Location
Escondido, CA
Starting to insulate the cab (aka the 94 dB EZ Bake Oven), starting with Lizard Skin sound control; ceramic insulation next week for heat, then some Dynamat hood liner. The Lizard Skin is easy to apply, and easy to clean up (water based). So far, seems to really work based on just a "tap test" (rap on an uninsulated steel panel - great steel drum effect. Rap on the Lizard Skin - very muffled thud). I might also spray the back wall of the cab and the roof inside - those are both big sound and heat radiators. Have some Kilmat for doors and other interior, as well. After getting that all done, will do another road test with the sound level meter to see how it does.
Ok, finally got the Dynamat hood liner installed (thanks to a great video guide by Dave Anderson
). Got to do a decent road test, and sound levels are down to 78-81 dB (without the radiator fan running), down from the original 94 dB with no fan. Huge difference! With the radiator fan, levels got up to 86 dB. This puts it in the range of our Ford F250. Litmus test: can actually have a conversation while driving without resorting to hand signals within the cab.
Still have the Kilmat to do on the inside - will just get better. I'd highly recommend these sound and heat insulation upgrades!
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