What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

Wire Fox

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That seems like an excellent deal. I fool around with old Farmall and Allis Chalmers tractors and a pump rebuild is always at least $600. Please post the company info.
Wanted to wait until I had the pump on and had the chance to try it out to make sure it was worth the high praises... I got it installed last night and the engine primed fast and started quickly, then ran absolutely great. My original pump, prior to rebuild (when it still ran), didn't handle rapid throttle changes: being at medium to high throttle and just letting go would often cause the engine to suddenly stall-not the case with this!

I found a link to the service I used on their main website, but the price is way higher here than it is on their eBay store: http://www.dcpcart.com/OScart/produ...hanical-65l-chevy-diesel-injection-pump-p-124 Over on eBay, they only list 6.2L pump service, but will do 6.5L pumps for the same price, with the caveat that it's very likely that the head will need replaced with additional cost. This same cost over on eBay was all of $284...
 

Gear Report

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Bumner you’re selling, I’ve enjoyed your posts and youtube channel
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Thanks!
I have an M1045A2 on the way.
Gotta make room for it in the garage. :)
So, there will be LOTS more reviews and videos. And our other writers have a bunch of HMMWVs as well. I stopped counting at 8.
 

Wire Fox

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I did get the engine fully buttoned back up with the air intake back in place as it should be. It's quite nice to be hearing the engine rumbling on, with the hood down, grill up, and lights on again-its been a year!

Now, I did do some more investigation on the transmission. I let the engine warm up for about 20 minutes until it was idling at a steady 200 (per guage), then proceeded to shift through all gears, staying in each for a full three-second count, then put it back into park. With the engine still running, I checked my fluid level and saw that it was just short of the top of the correct fill range. So, I'm still aiming at a rebuild at this point.


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RichDane

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Hatteras, North Carolina
Overhead.jpgOverhead1.jpgoverhead2.jpg
Besides changing out all four half shafts today, changing the fluid in the hubs, rotating the tire....I am almost finished with my overhead switch panel...it came out terrific if I say so myself....cut in the switches, cut in the lights, still have to cut in two speakers but it is coming out way better than expected...tried t keep the military theme and used the rear seat back for the panel......
 

Wire Fox

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View attachment 740133View attachment 740134View attachment 740135
Besides changing out all four half shafts today, changing the fluid in the hubs, rotating the tire....I am almost finished with my overhead switch panel...it came out terrific if I say so myself....cut in the switches, cut in the lights, still have to cut in two speakers but it is coming out way better than expected...tried t keep the military theme and used the rear seat back for the panel......
Is that a modified seat back?

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RichDane

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Seat Back

Is that a modified seat back?

Yes, Tried to keep the Military motif as they say, I'm not a purist by any means, ripped out the military seat drivers and passenger, put in 535 BMWi tan leather bucket seats, lowered the cross bar behind the seat, Tach in Dash, picked up a 4x8 sheet of plastic 1/2 thick rounded the edges and put that on top of the roof supports. gave the roof a nice solid look and now the **** rain water doesn't collect and pour into my window when I forget and sit into the drivers seat......and best of all ripped out that 3 speed and put in a 4l80e which is the best thing I ever did.....sweet and now I can hear myself think....before the trans swap...I would drive down the road with my hand on the shiftier making sure and perhaps hoping there was another gear I may have missed somewhere....not...
 

FKAM

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Duchesne, Utah
Finished the turret and swing arm mount install. Austin(beltfed), your old turret is finally in it's new home. Had to do it Augi style, haven't been able to source a hardtop yet.
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BLK HMMWV

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Pasadena California
Looks good I'm afraid soon you will upgrade to a motorized turret and start over. at least that's what happened to me.
Shortly there after I went down another rabbit hole and lost the sponsons and hatch a sort of GMV'd it with the rear MG mounts.
 

Wire Fox

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Finished the turret and swing arm mount install. Austin(beltfed), your old turret is finally in it's new home. Had to do it Augi style, haven't been able to source a hardtop yet.
View attachment 740198 View attachment 740200 View attachment 740205 View attachment 740208
Oh man, I really want those door swingarm mounts. That's my idea of how I'd like to arm-up my soft top. Specifically, one for the passenger side since I plan to stick with two-door soft top.

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Wire Fox

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I appear to have sold a friend on a transmission swap being a fun thing that he should look forward to. Therefore, I'm saving the least-technical and most labor-intensive part of the job for him tomorrow. (I disconnected everything and pulled all the lines and electronics...he gets to help hooking it up to the jack, getting the bell housing and crossmember disconnected, and wrestling that entire assembly out from under the HMMWV, since it didn't come out while on the jack the first time I tried the install.)

Tact is telling a man to go to **** and making him look forward to the trip.

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orgnal

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Denver, CO
I appear to have sold a friend on a transmission swap being a fun thing that he should look forward to. Therefore, I'm saving the least-technical and most labor-intensive part of the job for him tomorrow. (I disconnected everything and pulled all the lines and electronics...he gets to help hooking it up to the jack, getting the bell housing and crossmember disconnected, and wrestling that entire assembly out from under the HMMWV, since it didn't come out while on the jack the first time I tried the install.)

Tact is telling a man to go to **** and making him look forward to the trip.

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I am guessing your friend does not read these posts ....

McReddy
 

Wire Fox

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I am guessing your friend does not read these posts ....

McReddy
Well, he did realize it was a trap as soon it was time to unload the transmission from the car. Pretty sure that his past experience with a transmission was for a much smaller FWD transaxle, so there was much yowling involved in him helping me remove this from the car.
IMG_20180904_170726.jpg
Now that we had the warm-up, I dove under the HMMWV and we got to work with the final disassembly. I setup the jack carefully under there with the safety chain and a redundant ratchet strap. With that secure, I gave him the OK to start removing the bell housing bolts. (Only a small amount of scolding was necessary for him nearly trying to use my torque wrench as a breaker bar.) That task complete, we each carefully took our turn removing the two crossmember bolts and it was lowering time... He helped start it out by getting the transmission backed off of the engine block to clear the dowel pins, then began the game of lower a bit, rolling back, lowering a bit, rolling back, etc until we finally were on the ground. And of course, the transmission still is a we bit too high to roll straight out while on the jack, so we raised the front up a few inches off the ground, supported it with stands, and then carefully rolled it out the front.

IMG_20180905_002140.jpg

Then came the real challenge: the transmission I picked up does not have a reluctor ring installed in the rear TOSS port, so this means that I am not given an output speed for my TCM... I've spend much of the last 12 hours scrambling for a solution and have two possible options I'm going to try. Effectively, the only real way to make this work without a transmission tear-down is to get the output from the transmission off of the transfer case (the way most 4WD trucks do it). Option A is to take a civilian Jeep 242 transfer case and use the rear housing assembly off of it (91 or newer), as these will have a speed sensor installed on it for both an electronic speedometer and transmission computer use. Unfortunately, these cases have minor changes from year to year and I don't have enough experience to know which will work with mine without trying it first. Option B is to take a speedometer pulse generator intended for the newer HMMWVs that utilize an electronic speedometer. Problems here: I lose my speedometer & I don't know if this generates the correct number of pulses per revolution (I am waiting to hear back from Ametek about this). Option C is to use a nifty pass-through speedometer pulse generator that some aftermarket companies have made which generates pulses from the cable spinning, and still allows you to connect your cable to the end of it to retain your speedometer.

I'm trying both option B & C, as neither are very expensive (except when you ask: "How much for me to have it tomorrow?). Option B being brought to me by 86humv (the man that always has the parts...and is doing his best to get it to me by my deadline). Option C by Novak-Adapt: https://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/electronics/sensors/ (item VSS01-4160). I called Novak and the assured me that it will generate the correct amount of pulses to substitute as a TOSS (and it's a big part of why they offer it), but made clear the caveat of ALL of the t-case options: If you shift into low range, you affect the output gear ratio and thus will fool the TCM into thinking that the output has suddenly slowed down compared to the input speed. This will likely affect how the transmission shifts and could even throw an error code, so I can't recommend it as a first pick, but I WILL be reporting in on what does and does not work, and what kind of issues it does cause. Ultimately this is all a temporary measure for me, as my endgame is to rebuild this transmission and just have the proper TISS and TOSS present...
 

Bulldogger

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We'll be interested to hear how it goes WireFox as it will educate us on options for transmission replacement from more commonly available items.
Best of luck!
Bulldogger
 

suzukovich

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Finally replaced the problematic Goodyear MT/R on the Humvee. Then replaced the runflats with PVC beadlock/inserts from Trail Worthy Fab. Install was pretty easy. Used the tines on the forklift to get the PVC inserts into the tire. Used Bead sealer to seat the O rings on the rim. Truck definitely rides better.


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lowell66dart

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Looks good. I ran those Guard Dogs for a while before I went to 17 inch wheels. I really liked them. I ran them with no beadlocks on 12 bolts.
 
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