What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

orgnal

Member
284
1
16
Location
Denver, CO
Installed my new belt tensioner
View attachment 769612

Also installed the rear bumper and I'm now working on the rear winch
View attachment 769613

By the way during cleaning the HMMWV I found some marking under the paint. I tried to google it but I could not really find something.
I would like to know a little bit more about my HMMWV thanks
View attachment 769610View attachment 769611View attachment 769609
I love the belt tensioner set up you have! Can you please share details on the parts you used to rig up the belt tensioner?

McReddy
 

twisted60

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Jupiter, Florida
Veterans appreciation day at local base ball stadium. Dog (in my Humvee) is from National Crisis Response Canine Group. They had 4 well behaved fur babies in training there, they posed with my Humvee and the M35 from Project 425 that was also there for the vets.
fullsizeoutput_1a9f.jpgfullsizeoutput_1aa0.jpg
 

Frost0071

Member
47
7
8
Location
Indianapolis/Indiana
I love the belt tensioner set up you have! Can you please share details on the parts you used to rig up the belt tensioner?

McReddy
No problem I used this parts from McMasterCarr

one RH ball joint https://www.mcmaster.com/60645k16-60645K161
one LH ball joint https://www.mcmaster.com/60645k16-60645K162
and two of these screws https://www.mcmaster.com/91259a709

The middle pice is a 1" hex steel bar. It looks not perfect but it works pretty good at the moment and it's very easy now to get to the right tension of the belts.
 

orgnal

Member
284
1
16
Location
Denver, CO

orgnal

Member
284
1
16
Location
Denver, CO
No problem I used this parts from McMasterCarr

one RH ball joint https://www.mcmaster.com/60645k16-60645K161
one LH ball joint https://www.mcmaster.com/60645k16-60645K162
and two of these screws https://www.mcmaster.com/91259a709

The middle pice is a 1" hex steel bar. It looks not perfect but it works pretty good at the moment and it's very easy now to get to the right tension of the belts.
How long is the 1" hex steel bar? Did you thread the ends yourself? What tools did you use to thread the ends?

McReddy
 

Bulldogger

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Location
Woodbridge VA
Drained the transmission and dropped the pan. Replaced the filter and replaced the kickdown solenoid.
Seemed to drive a little better during the shakedown ride but no kickdown near as I can tell. Troubleshooting continues. I know the switch on the throttle linkage is good. Will trace the wires next.
Bulldogger
 

Another Ahab

Well-known member
16,486
801
113
Location
Alexandria, VA
Seemed to drive a little better during the shakedown ride but no kickdown near as I can tell. Troubleshooting continues. I know the switch on the throttle linkage is good. Will trace the wires next.
Bulldogger
Hey, Bulldogger, a little warm but otherwise nice day for a drive.

Where'd you go? Ever head down to George Mason's place?
 

Milcommoguy

Active member
656
201
43
Location
Rosamond, CA
No need to test drive. Turn the truck to run, engine off. Test light connected to the transmission kick down lead. Mash the peddle to the floor with no peddle interference, ie carpet, mat, insulation, squirrel nests. Light should come on.

Another, if engine fan has kicked in and running, Mash peddle to the floor. Fan should kick off for 20 + - seconds. Same switch circuit.

Check light first before chasing tail. CAMO
 
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Bulldogger

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,069
83
48
Location
Woodbridge VA
No need to test drive. Turn the truck to run, engine off. Test light connected to the transmission kick down lead. Mash the peddle to the floor with no peddle interference, ie carpet, mat, insulation, squirrel nests. Light should come on.

Another, if engine fan has kicked in and running, Mash peddle to the floor. Fan should kick off for 20 + - seconds. Same switch circuit.

Check light first before chasing tail. CAMO
I plan to test the kickdown switch wire circuit for voltage next, yes. My truck is a M998A0, so the fan will not kick off with WOT signal.

I'll get to it next weekend, too much to do this week.

She drives, she's just a little more sluggish than a normal A0.

BDGR
 

Wire Fox

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,239
86
48
Location
Indianapolis, Indiana
Got my Pitman Arm and Idler Arm replaced yesterday. That pitman arm did NOT want to come off the steering gear with the help of penetrating oil, hammering directly on the puller bolt, or anything. What finally did it in was dropping the sway bar, them setting the impact wrench in it to beat on it for multiple tankfulls of air. After a long while, it finally gave in and let me get on with the job. Took the opportunity to bleed the power steering since the wheels were already off the ground, then set everything back down.

Only sore part of all this is I think I was sold knock-off parts. The castle nuts were way too sharply machined, plus the idler had the wrong zerk fitting on it (and when I tried to replace the zerk, the bolt head stripped). Wish I noticed the abnormalities on the parts before I started the install, as I would have sent them back. In the meantime, since I'm stuck with these parts for a while, I'll just inspect them a little more often for play or damage, and I'll grab myself an angled grease gun coupler (if they make them...) since the idler zerk points straight at the sway bar right now...

Sent from my Nokia 6.1 using Tapatalk
 

Retiredwarhorses

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Brentwood, Calif
F
Got my Pitman Arm and Idler Arm replaced yesterday. That pitman arm did NOT want to come off the steering gear with the help of penetrating oil, hammering directly on the puller bolt, or anything. What finally did it in was dropping the sway bar, them setting the impact wrench in it to beat on it for multiple tankfulls of air. After a long while, it finally gave in and let me get on with the job. Took the opportunity to bleed the power steering since the wheels were already off the ground, then set everything back down.

Only sore part of all this is I think I was sold knock-off parts. The castle nuts were way too sharply machined, plus the idler had the wrong zerk fitting on it (and when I tried to replace the zerk, the bolt head stripped). Wish I noticed the abnormalities on the parts before I started the install, as I would have sent them back. In the meantime, since I'm stuck with these parts for a while, I'll just inspect them a little more often for play or damage, and I'll grab myself an angled grease gun coupler (if they make them...) since the idler zerk points straight at the sway bar right now...

Sent from my Nokia 6.1 using Tapatalk

there are a few variations of Pittman and idler...one way to tell is the angle of the zirk fitting.
but yes...many many knock offs on the market.
 
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