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What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

General Hood

Member
712
2
18
Location
Fort Towson, OK
Loaded up the wife and dog and took the HMMWV up into the Kiamichi Wilderness today. I'll have to get the pressure washer out tomorrow, but we had a blast today.

BTW, does anyone know where I can find the rubber bumpers that mount above the windshield as pictured? and what the part name or number is?
732982_6002_159_0001.jpg
 

NormB

Well-known member
1,221
77
48
Location
Cloverly,MD
Loaded up the wife and dog and took the HMMWV up into the Kiamichi Wilderness today. I'll have to get the pressure washer out tomorrow, but we had a blast today.
BTW, does anyone know where I can find the rubber bumpers that mount above the windshield as pictured? and what the part name or number is?
View attachment 684082
Ah, family time. My daughter, studying abroad ('straya, James Cook Univ.) returns in two weeks. Says she'll drive the HMMWV this time. Scared her just to ride in it.

The bumpers you want, HPG has: 01-185-0404 BUMPER, WINDSHIELD FRAME (FOLD-DOWN)
2
$4.68
$9.36​


I replaced mine a few months ago.

Used 1/4-20 5/8" long bolts and a couple of washers (all yellow zinc coated) to mount.

 
Last edited by a moderator:

CGregson

New member
29
7
3
Location
Sammamish/WA
Just finished gutting the whole interior and cleaning out all the crap, reinstalled everything, serviced batteries, and wrapped the foam padded bows in black Hockey stick fabric grip tape to keep the deterioration under control (and so I can continue letting the kids have their way with the truck without the foam on the bows taking a further beating.)
 

Wire Fox

Well-known member
1,254
158
63
Location
Indianapolis, Indiana
Just finished gutting the whole interior and cleaning out all the crap, reinstalled everything, serviced batteries, and wrapped the foam padded bows in black Hockey stick fabric grip tape to keep the deterioration under control (and so I can continue letting the kids have their way with the truck without the foam on the bows taking a further beating.)
Foam on the bows? That's a thing?
 

infidel got me

Well-known member
1,685
32
48
Location
Newberry, Florida
can1.jpgcan.jpg Scored 2 nice fuel cans, but had old yellow faded/scratched paint. Used brake fluid and a scotch-brite pad and they look almost new again. Brake fluid wont hurt the plastic and dissolved the paint without sandpaper scratches.
 

Wire Fox

Well-known member
1,254
158
63
Location
Indianapolis, Indiana
View attachment 684879View attachment 684880 Scored 2 nice fuel cans, but had old yellow faded/scratched paint. Used brake fluid and a scotch-brite pad and they look almost new again. Brake fluid wont hurt the plastic and dissolved the paint without sandpaper scratches.
Brake fluid, you say? That would both give me a use for those open bottles of brake fluid that would normally never be used again, and make me feel better about grabbing one of those nasty-looking cans on ebay...
 

Wire Fox

Well-known member
1,254
158
63
Location
Indianapolis, Indiana
Good progress today for a rainy day. Being a rainy day, I was reminded of how annoying it was to have my block full of water. I've had many unsuccessful attempts of trying to fish a thin metal tape into the block drain tube to clear the obstruction, so this time, I broke out the air compressor, set the regulator to 30 PSI, and installed the rubber air nozzle. I placed t his firmly against the drain port on top of the block and blew some bubbles a few times...sure enough, once I pulled the nozzle back, I could hear water splattering on the ground and the block was now rapidly draining on its own! Knowing now that I wasn't going to just have a pressure vessel on a thin tube, I upped the PSI to 60 and gave it another couple blasts while still draining in order to ensure I really had everything blown out. This time, I could hear the air jetting through the tube and was very well satisfied with the problem actually being resolved. Since the compressor was already out, I switched over to a Schrader valve air chuck and aired up the tires, which haven't seen any fresh air since I picked up the HMMWV and its just sat in my driveway. They were all 15-20 PSI...not terrible, considering its been just sitting without any additional air since at least November.

Some real work had to be done, so I went to work on scraping off the old gasket material off my intake plenum, since it had to be pulled off for other work. Since you guys love pictures, enjoy a picture of a cleaned-up surface on the intake. Not perfect, but the surface feels extremely smooth without any course or raised areas and I know I'm not going to get much better without a high risk of nicking and gouging the surface.
WP_20170614_21_30_51_Pro_LI.jpg
 

NormB

Well-known member
1,221
77
48
Location
Cloverly,MD
Finally got around to hooking up my "air conditioning."

IMG_0286.jpgIMG_0287.jpg

Of course I used rivnuts (8-32) in the deck (had some screws left over from installing the high-back seats), power "block" is some 100A marine product, blue seas or something like that. Ground switch disconnects power from truck.

Also ran a wire for a dual band (2M/70cm) radio. Covered wires with nylon mesh for abrasion resistance, if I get around to in the future I'll put in some quick-disconnect plug like the 2-pin one for the tachometer drive on the rear of the engine or the fuel filter pressure sensor, but if I have to get the doghouse off, whole thing can just disconnect and roll over onto the commander's seat.
 

NormB

Well-known member
1,221
77
48
Location
Cloverly,MD
I replaced the speedometer and fuel gauge. Fuel gauge 'cause I'd replaced the sender and the gauge took this opportunity to start acting up. Showed 1/4 tank with 15 gallons filled. Now shows over 1/2 tank and I've driven about 30 miles on the 15 gallons, so, closer.

Speedometer (thanks Fuzzytoaster) 'cause the odometer was stuck and I didn't want to disassemble, oil, or whatever. From data I got here with ID/SN/NSN it looks like the odometer broke about a thousand miles earlier.

Also gave me a chance to disconnect, clean, apply SM dielectric grease to rubber fittings and Deoxit to all contacts.

Buttoned everything up, ran it for a while. Plan on taking it out to play with on Sunday.

Oh, one more thing.

I bought an "insurance policy," should I ever run out of fuel somewhere.

Reading the forums, someone mentioned adding a schrader valve to the fuel cap. I bought a couple off amazon (tractor wheel types, very low profile stem), and a CO2 bike tire filler and some 16 gram cartridges.

I COULD do the math, who can forget PV=nRT and CO2 weighs 12grams per mole from basic chemistry? But the air hose at 25 PSI worked well for me getting the system primed after refurbing the tank/seals/hoses/fuel filter last week, so I figured "what the heck" and just did it with the filter drain valve opened. This unit actually allows to to shut off the gas which I did. Took a few seconds but fuel came out of the drain valve like I expected. I shut it off, went back to the tank and opened the cap then removed the filler gadget.

I COULD carry around a tank of compressed air, or an air pump, but this is smaller, packs easily and works.

Hope I never really need to use it.

IMG_0291.jpgIMG_0292.jpg
 

orgnal

Member
285
4
18
Location
Denver, CO
I replaced the speedometer and fuel gauge. Fuel gauge 'cause I'd replaced the sender and the gauge took this opportunity to start acting up. Showed 1/4 tank with 15 gallons filled. Now shows over 1/2 tank and I've driven about 30 miles on the 15 gallons, so, closer.

Speedometer (thanks Fuzzytoaster) 'cause the odometer was stuck and I didn't want to disassemble, oil, or whatever. From data I got here with ID/SN/NSN it looks like the odometer broke about a thousand miles earlier.

Also gave me a chance to disconnect, clean, apply SM dielectric grease to rubber fittings and Deoxit to all contacts.

Buttoned everything up, ran it for a while. Plan on taking it out to play with on Sunday.

Oh, one more thing.

I bought an "insurance policy," should I ever run out of fuel somewhere.

Reading the forums, someone mentioned adding a schrader valve to the fuel cap. I bought a couple off amazon (tractor wheel types, very low profile stem), and a CO2 bike tire filler and some 16 gram cartridges.

I COULD do the math, who can forget PV=nRT and CO2 weighs 12grams per mole from basic chemistry? But the air hose at 25 PSI worked well for me getting the system primed after refurbing the tank/seals/hoses/fuel filter last week, so I figured "what the heck" and just did it with the filter drain valve opened. This unit actually allows to to shut off the gas which I did. Took a few seconds but fuel came out of the drain valve like I expected. I shut it off, went back to the tank and opened the cap then removed the filler gadget.

I COULD carry around a tank of compressed air, or an air pump, but this is smaller, packs easily and works.

Hope I never really need to use it.

View attachment 685131View attachment 685132
Neat !

McReddy
 

Another Ahab

Well-known member
17,825
4,157
113
Location
Alexandria, VA
I COULD do the math, who can forget PV=nRT and CO2 weighs 12grams per mole from basic chemistry? But the air hose at 25 PSI worked well for me getting the system primed after refurbing the tank/seals/hoses/fuel filter last week, so I figured "what the heck" and just did it with the filter drain valve opened. This unit actually allows to to shut off the gas which I did. Took a few seconds but fuel came out of the drain valve like I expected. I shut it off, went back to the tank and opened the cap then removed the filler gadget.
That chemistry recall is a l-i-t-t-l-e bit rusty. :roll:

But then 10th grade was a long time ago.




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