• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

85 USMC M998

Member
228
17
18
Location
Monroe Area, MI
I had to replace my Coolant Surge Tank (A2 Style); it split at the seam and was only 1 yr old with very little hours of use. When I went to order a new one (Plastic) I found crazy high prices from $185 - $225 w/o S/H. I looked for an alternative and found a few sites that had the aluminum version; usedh1.com had the best price. I ordered from Blair Outlan (best to call him). The unit received was just like shown on his site (pictures attached) and was of great quality. I installed before a weekend trail ride and had no issues. One thing to note that the unit has more holes than a M998 needs but extra plugs were supplied. The plugs did move it slightly over towards the rubber intake (see pictures), I was in rush so I just zip tied a piece of rubber until I look into the clearance issue better. The plugs were not flush so that is probably my issues. I found a post a few years old on another site that he was offering a discount; be bumped up the price from that post however it was less that his website price.
DSC_0498.jpgDSC_0501.jpg
 
Last edited:

Wire Fox

Well-known member
1,254
158
63
Location
Indianapolis, Indiana
Ran what should be the last wire for my transmission wiring harness and was eager to test, but my "Y" split rubber shell connectors were missing. No problem, I thought. I'll just make a Y-split cable with all these connectors and scrap wire I have around, but alas, my roommate lost the solder I would have needed to finish that... So, I took the rest of the evening to look at and order parts. New shift knob set and all new radiator/surge tanks hoses are on their way, as well as a 10 lb roll of solder that I'll promptly divide and use to fill little dispenser tubes in different toolboxes so that I can't lose it all at once.
 

86humv

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,694
489
83
Location
Texas
I had to replace my Coolant Surge Tank (A2 Style); it split at the seam and was only 1 yr old with very little hours of use. When I went to order a new one (Plastic) I found crazy high prices from $185 - $225 w/o S/H. I looked for an alternative and found a few sites that had the aluminum version; usedh1.com had the best price. I ordered from Blair Outlan (best to call him). The unit received was just like shown on his site (pictures attached) and was of great quality. I installed before a weekend trail ride and had no issues. One thing to note that the unit has more holes than a M998 needs but extra plugs were supplied. The plugs did move it slightly over towards the rubber intake (see pictures), I was in rush so I just zip tied a piece of rubber until I look into the clearance issue better. The plugs were not flush so that is probably my issues. I found a post a few years old on another site that he was offering a discount; be bumped up the price from that post however it was less that his website price.
View attachment 701364View attachment 701365
The 2 small hoses normally route over the intake duct so the don't have that sharp bend.
 

Wire Fox

Well-known member
1,254
158
63
Location
Indianapolis, Indiana
Last night, I made use of my new Speedy Stitcher to repair the window on my salvageable door. It was my first try at it, so I made a bit of a mistake in getting the window perfectly lined up, but it doesn't look bad by any stretch and it opens and closes very easily. Some paraffin wax also went a long way to aid the zipper's movement. It's quite nice not having a trash bag over my door to keep rain water out!

Next up is I've still been working to resolve my no-start issue on the engine. I've dumped the couple of old gallons of diesel that were remaining and filled 5 fresh gallons, plus decided to replace the fuel filter and center water separator element. The center element looked fine, but the fuel filter and housing were definitely very fouled and replacement was well-timed. Bled the system to get fuel flowing again and I could see puffs of dark smoke at the exhaust with each compression, but no ignition... Air filter was checked to ensure fouling hadn't occured, and it was clean. Glow plugs are cycling correctly (physically inspected and resistance testing last time it ran about 1 mo ago) with about an 8 second WTS light on an S3. Best guess I have left is my crank speed. The A1 troubleshooting guide states a minimum crank speed of 150 RPM for a cold start. My batteries are in deteriorating condition and I only get about 40 seconds worth of cranking (in 2-3 separate bursts, mind you) before the power is drawn down to such an extent that it's clearly unusuable.

I'm charging up and rounding up all of the spare car batteries we have available to see if I can throw together a usuable battery bank and try to see if this is the real issue. While I work on this, is there anyone in the Indianapolis area that has a high quality battery charger, like a NOCO Genius, that I could borrow to see if my batteries can be revived? In the meantime, I've got feelers out at the local demil salvage yards to try and source a handful of low cost 6TL/6TMF/6TAGM batteries (which would still need a nice charger to bring them up to standard). Unfortunately the guy that could speak for the best lead (Bedford Recycling) is out until Monday, so I won't know until then if I have to look elsewhere.
 

suzukovich

Active member
392
141
43
Location
Gibsonton Fl
Replaced my oil pressure gauge. Old one had Crack in it and looked to have been a ground issue. New gauge reads about 5psi before engine is started. But lot better then old one which read 30 when cold and under 25 when warm at idle.


Sent from my SM-T560NU using Tapatalk
 

Sisu

New member
10
0
1
Location
Eau Claire, MI
I've been working on painting my rig. It's been a little more work than I anticipated. Taking things apart, cleaning, scraping, priming (where needed), and painting. OD Green is the color. I plan on putting a couple of white stars on it like the WWll jeeps. I started painting parts with a brush. That took a lot of time. Invested in a HVLP spray gun and a 30 gallon air compressor. The prep takes more time. But the results look better than a brush. I'll post more pictures when it gets closer to being done.IMG_0722.jpgIMG_0724.jpgIMG_0721.jpgIMG_0723.jpgIMG_0725.jpgIMG_0726.jpg
 

fpchief

Well-known member
1,041
218
63
Location
South Alabama
I've been working on painting my rig. It's been a little more work than I anticipated. Taking things apart, cleaning, scraping, priming (where needed), and painting. OD Green is the color. I plan on putting a couple of white stars on it like the WWll jeeps. I started painting parts with a brush. That took a lot of time. Invested in a HVLP spray gun and a 30 gallon air compressor. The prep takes more time. But the results look better than a brush. I'll post more pictures when it gets closer to being done.View attachment 702701View attachment 702702View attachment 702703View attachment 702704View attachment 702705View attachment 702706
Looking good!!!

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

EnteJager

Member
154
4
18
Location
NJ
this would be a fairly good option for night driving optics planet has em for a couple Gs http://www.opticsplanet.com/flir-systems-pathfinder-ir-ii-fast-video-kit.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jnqRJPw_qfE

I picked one up from Uncle Sam's outlet (GL Store) They had them for 1k, I waited for a 30% sale and picked one up for 700.00
Safety Vision in Tx is the OEM for the cables and monitor which they supplied for 335.00 shipped. So I got a 3500.00 system for 1k
The monitor and cables usually sell for 900-100.00 from authorized vendors.

I put monitor in front of my speedo, off to the side you really miss objects because you have to continually have to look at it.
I flip the mionitor down during th day and up when I need it. Works great.
 

NormB

Well-known member
1,221
77
48
Location
Cloverly,MD
I've been working on painting my rig. It's been a little more work than I anticipated. Taking things apart, cleaning, scraping, priming (where needed), and painting. OD Green is the color. I plan on putting a couple of white stars on it like the WWll jeeps. I started painting parts with a brush. That took a lot of time. Invested in a HVLP spray gun and a 30 gallon air compressor. The prep takes more time. But the results look better than a brush. I'll post more pictures when it gets closer to being done.View attachment 702701View attachment 702702View attachment 702703View attachment 702704View attachment 702705View attachment 702706

Nice work, soldier. Drive on.
 

Another Ahab

Well-known member
17,825
4,157
113
Location
Alexandria, VA
Last night, I made use of my new Speedy Stitcher to repair the window on my salvageable door. It was my first try at it, so I made a bit of a mistake in getting the window perfectly lined up, but it doesn't look bad by any stretch and it opens and closes very easily. Some paraffin wax also went a long way to aid the zipper's movement. It's quite nice not having a trash bag over my door to keep rain water out!
I've thought some about getting a speedy stitcher, but I just go to a local shoe repair guy now whenever I run into a heavy stitching project of any kind. So far so good.

But a speedy stitcher might be handy:

- How do you "tie-off" the stitching once you finish up, is it a little complicated?
 

ryanruck

Active member
427
43
28
Location
Cincinnati, OH
I've thought some about getting a speedy stitcher, but I just go to a local shoe repair guy now whenever I run into a heavy stitching project of any kind. So far so good.

But a speedy stitcher might be handy:

- How do you "tie-off" the stitching once you finish up, is it a little complicated?
Harbor Freight has one for $6 and it comes with a big spool of thread that's suitable for using on the doors. You can go with waxed thread if you want better sealing and less fraying on the end while you're stitching.

This is the video that shows you how to use it and tie it off. It's pretty much just a simple knot. I like to put a dab of super glue on the knot for extra peace of mind.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k40kKKCGyac

The only thing I think the clip doesn't mention is to pull a length of thread out about 1.5x as long as the run you are planning on stitching. That gives you enough for the run and a little extra to trim off frayed ends and what not.
 

hangarhermit

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
53
3
8
Location
Houston / Texas
Made one of the Humvees available to Levi, one of the neighborhood airport kids, for a party with his Cub Scout buddies at his hangar. He is a cool kid. His Dad said that he thinks the kids enjoyed the Humvee more than the planes.
Levi cub scout pack.jpgLevi cub scout buddies.jpgLevi in uniform.jpg
 

Carrera911

Active member
138
31
28
Location
Cumming, Georgia
I went to a Jeep off road event about a month ago. Whilst showing up Jeeps with more money in mods than I have in the V, I heard a loud clanking noise from the engine. Turns out, one of the screws on a fan clutch plate had sheared off and the plate was flapping back and forth. Using some pliers, I removed the plate completely, wheeled the rest of the day and drove 40 minutes home. The hard part was getting out the small sheared screw without removing the entire cooling stack. I managed to snake my cordless impact between the fan blades to remove the 4 9/16 nuts holding the fan to the clutch. It can remove lug nuts but struggled a bit on the 4 nuts. They must've been over 100 lbfs and no way could I get that with a wrench through the blades. Anyway, I got the little bit of screw out with needle nose vice grips and used some blue Loctite on the new screws.

IMG_3428.jpgIMG_3423.jpgIMG_3424.jpgIMG_3425.jpgIMG_3427.jpg
 

ExFlyBoy

New member
33
1
0
Location
Minooka Illinois
Found out just how not water tight my hmmwv is today....... I remember them being leaky s.o.b's when I was in.... but man going through a nasty wind driven rain storm today, I found that a cheese grater may be a better choice for a flotation device in case of a water landing......oh well , at least I got my new heater core in on Monday. Nice and warm----ish now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

911joeblow

Active member
507
68
28
Location
Utah
Found out just how not water tight my hmmwv is today....... I remember them being leaky s.o.b's when I was in.... but man going through a nasty wind driven rain storm today, I found that a cheese grater may be a better choice for a flotation device in case of a water landing......oh well , at least I got my new heater core in on Monday. Nice and warm----ish now.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Constant battle for sure. I have been replacing weather stripping with thicker materials and things are getting better. I have also added drains in the floors which is a nice add on too.
 

erasedhammer

Active member
843
56
28
Location
Maryland
Found out just how not water tight my hmmwv is today....... I remember them being leaky s.o.b's when I was in.... but man going through a nasty wind driven rain storm today, I found that a cheese grater may be a better choice for a flotation device in case of a water landing......oh well , at least I got my new heater core in on Monday. Nice and warm----ish now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If you have x doors I would suggest getting a frag 5 door seals.
I have a 4 man soft top and have zero water problems and I've been in some crazy rain storms.
The seal kits are in eBay and work really well. One box easily covers one door.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks