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What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

MattNC

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Raleigh, NC
Mogman, thanks for the review. Were your previous tires the standard goodyear M/T? Just curious what the new one is quieter than. Are you running the same rims as before or new wheels as well?

Thanks
 

123mack

Member
861
11
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Location
Jemison, AL
They keep all the best roads to their selves!
Took my son out on some trails. Turned out that one of the trails were closed (ugh). Luckily forest service let me off with a warning after talking to me about the HMMWV for about 30 min. Anyway, a few pictures.




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That HMMWV is from my old National Guard unit, 20th group. 2SF would be 2nd BN, and if I remember right was mostly in MS, but it's been a long time. Spent most of my time in HHC in Birmingham. what are the markings under the tag?
 

Mogman

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Mogman, thanks for the review. Were your previous tires the standard goodyear M/T? Just curious what the new one is quieter than. Are you running the same rims as before or new wheels as well?

Thanks
Yes they were the Goodyears, same rims (12 bolt), no run flats or bead locks, I ended up replacing one rim because one of the previous owners installed oversize O rings and warped the rim so it would not seal using the CORRECT O ring, GEEEZ......What some folks do to avoid the effort to do things right.
 

juanprado

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Metairie/La (N'awlins)
Replaced the cold start switch.

Note this is easily accessible on the right side rear cylinder head. I loosened the transmission dip stick mount in order to have full access with a box end wrench.





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What where your symptoms as to why you replaced it?

Curious as trying to trouble shoot a problem I have.....
 

Chief B

Active member
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Location
Milton, FL
Replaced the cold start switch.

Note this is easily accessible on the right side rear cylinder head. I loosened the transmission dip stick mount in order to have full access with a box end wrench.





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My question is how important is that part? I'm asking because when I went to change mine out mine seared off flush with the engine block and I have yet been able to be able to get it out. I have not noticed any difference in the way it drives without it, but am curious if it is going to cause more damage in the long run. I have a new one waiting to go in as soon as I figure out how to get the old one out.
 

rcamacho

Well-known member
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93
Location
Bainbridge Island Wa
What where your symptoms as to why you replaced it?

Curious as trying to trouble shoot a problem I have.....
Check the HMMWV troubleshooting TM, it’s an excellent reference!

I had two issues, first several glow-plugs were marginal and replaced. Second, the cold start switch was dead which prohibited the injector pump cold start solenoid from functioning.

Cold starting is much better now

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DREDnot

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Location
Phoenix, AZ
My question is how important is that part? I'm asking because when I went to change mine out mine seared off flush with the engine block and I have yet been able to be able to get it out. I have not noticed any difference in the way it drives without it, but am curious if it is going to cause more damage in the long run. I have a new one waiting to go in as soon as I figure out how to get the old one out.
It is Important for easy cold starting.

It also can cause the engine to be louder(clatter) than it needs to be if it is not functioning.

It wont keep the engine from running, but its wise to have that working
 

Chief B

Active member
169
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Location
Milton, FL
It is Important for easy cold starting.

It also can cause the engine to be louder(clatter) than it needs to be if it is not functioning.

It wont keep the engine from running, but its wise to have that working
Any suggestion on getting it out? I tried a speed out, but no luck. Not a lot to grip since it was mostly hollow inside.
 

DREDnot

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63
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Any suggestion on getting it out? I tried a speed out, but no luck. Not a lot to grip since it was mostly hollow inside.
If you can get in there with a drill or angle drill, Drill it out till you are just undersize from the Size it takes to tap the hole. You will eventually be left with just a hollow thread that comes out. Then re-tap the hole just enough to clean it up and install a new one
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
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Brooklyn, NY
If you can get in there with a drill or angle drill, Drill it out till you are just undersize from the Size it takes to tap the hole. You will eventually be left with just a hollow thread that comes out. Then re-tap the hole just enough to clean it up and install a new one
Or overdrill and helicoil. Before Helicoil, I might first propane torch followed by penetrating oil. Wait 2 hours then use a reverse threaded drill to try to back it out.
 

rcamacho

Well-known member
764
813
93
Location
Bainbridge Island Wa


Found a fired blank round while servicing the battery box. After a bit of cleaning may make a keychain for the 998.



Finished the keychain after firing the primer a few times. There was no powder in the case.



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G3isMe

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Location
Texas

Yeah it looks unfired to me. If the primer has been struck it is a misfire. Be careful.
 
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rcamacho

Well-known member
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813
93
Location
Bainbridge Island Wa
Finished cleaning up the battery box and replacing the missing hold down bracket. The box had some minor corrosion which I neutralized and painted. The battery terminals needed some work to correct for over tightening, hammering etc.




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Coug

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Olympia/WA
Put a new inner boot on the front driver's side half shaft.
What none of the videos I watched having to do with removal showed was the guard under the brake disc. Maybe it's just on the A2 vehicles or something (can't be bothered to check the TM for it as it doesn't really matter.

Feeling slightly dumb for not doing what the "bought a new vehicle" checklist said about torquing down the half shaft bolts, none of them were torqued to spec, and all of them have split ring washers.
Ordered a bunch of 10mm Nord Lock washers to just redo all of them.

Next project, find the slop in my steering so I can take care of it. Vehicle occasionally acts like it wants to go somewhere other than where I'm steering it, especially bad on snow or sand, and I've already done a basic toe alignment on all 4 corners. Drives straight down the road, and steering seems pretty good other than this. Would have gotten to it today but every time I tried to work on it the weather decided it was time for a rain shower.
 

Bulldogger

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Quantico VA
Put a new inner boot on the front driver's side half shaft.
What none of the videos I watched having to do with removal showed was the guard under the brake disc. Maybe it's just on the A2 vehicles or something (can't be bothered to check the TM for it as it doesn't really matter.

Feeling slightly dumb for not doing what the "bought a new vehicle" checklist said about torquing down the half shaft bolts, none of them were torqued to spec, and all of them have split ring washers.
Ordered a bunch of 10mm Nord Lock washers to just redo all of them.

Next project, find the slop in my steering so I can take care of it. Vehicle occasionally acts like it wants to go somewhere other than where I'm steering it, especially bad on snow or sand, and I've already done a basic toe alignment on all 4 corners. Drives straight down the road, and steering seems pretty good other than this. Would have gotten to it today but every time I tried to work on it the weather decided it was time for a rain shower.
Check the idler arm first, but check all the steering points. Might help to have the front end off the ground so you can observe the wiggling. On the older models the idler arm is the weak point, though it was corrected on A2's. Not good to have wonky steering.
BDGR
 

suzukovich

Active member
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141
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Location
Gibsonton Fl
Made a 35mi run to town today and got my first impression of the TreadWright tires and Centramatic tire balancers, WOW what a difference, smother than anyone could expect, my eyeballs are no longer bouncing between the sky and the pavement, and the tires are much quieter too.
Of course only time will tell about "remolded" tires but so far I am very happy, going to test these less aggressive tires on the 4WD only portion of S. Padre Isl. during the annual beach cleanup on the 29th, pulling the M1101 trailer.
I have had mine for almost 2yrs now with over 10,000 miles on them. I have had no issues at all. I am running PVC beadlocks and wheels Spined balanced the with weights. Off road traction in mud no issues at all. On road wet weather handling has been great. We get a lot down pours during the summer here in Florida.

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Coug

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Olympia/WA
My only issue with TreadWright is they specifically call out the HMMWV tires and give them no warranty, saying they are an off road only tire.
I suppose, given the price compared to surplus tires it's all about the same, but still irks me when a company won't stand behind a product.


 

fuzzytoaster

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Fort Worth, Texas
I was doing glow plugs today and every single one was swollen or deformed. It was an 09' rebuild with 77 miles on it and it's ridiculous. I've got the special extractor tool and even then I've had one collar rip off and one break in half. I'm 3 for 5 right now. I was really trying to take it easy today and do PMCS.


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