What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

[jbmatt]

Did you do the tire removal and install yourself?

 

[Gutschken]

Did you do the tire removal and install yourself?

Sorry for the late answer - I did, and those are some heavy tires! Had to purchase a set of tires because three of the old were cracked. Left the runflats out and installed double beadlocks and centramatics. It runs really smooth compared to my first brief outing when I got it running.

 

[Mainsail]

I let the fuel level drop below a half tank to check what kind of MPG I'm getting.

Calculated out at 9.6

 

[Coug]

So got a message about a motorcycle that went off the trail and down a slope that needed recovered (I volunteer in my area for off road vehicle recoveries that tow trucks won't go to)


Used the tow bar to get a little more height on the lift





It went pretty straight forward. Bike was in excellent shape for the fact it went off the hillside, but it was upright the whole time.


Loaded it up and took it to their camp site. Bike wouldn't start because the computer in it said there was a fault in the brake light. Brake light seemed to come on just fine, but still won't do anything. Honestly, any vehicle designed to be able to go off road that won't start for a reason like that is stupid. Anyway, the tailgate just barely shut with the bike in it.

 

[Gastrap]

Fixed a KDS S3 box that was in the back of my truck when I bought it, I had tried it and discovered pretty quickly the start relay was welded shut. Without de-soldering the top plug it would have been hard to remove the K1 relay, so I cheated and milled an access hole in the box.

I decided to solder wires onto the board, and remote mount the new 50 amp relay for easier replacement if needed.

I sealed the hole with a plate and it works as it should. Nice to get the old Nartron EESS out of there, I hated the afterglow on that one. I added a little LED wired to a glow plug so I can see when they are actually on. The S3 box just flickers the LED for a couple minutes after starting instead of a full current pulse like the old EESS

 

[cahilj]

Got it up on my lift to diagnose why it will intermittently not shift to 3rd. I also decided to figure out what the clunk noise was while turning at low speed. Turns out the pitman arm was just about to fall apart.

Then I decided to replace all the hub seals since I didn't do them when I first got it on the road and they were all seeping.

Also picked up an M1101 trailer and started cleaning it up. It's basically new apart from a few scratches.

 

[TNDRIVER]

Fixed a KDS S3 box that was in the back of my truck when I bought it, I had tried it and discovered pretty quickly the start relay was welded shut. Without de-soldering the top plug it would have been hard to remove the K1 relay, so I cheated and milled an access hole in the box.

I decided to solder wires onto the board, and remote mount the new 50 amp relay for easier replacement if needed.

I sealed the hole with a plate and it works as it should. Nice to get the old Nartron EESS out of there, I hated the afterglow on that one. I added a little LED wired to a glow plug so I can see when they are actually on. The S3 box just flickers the LED for a couple minutes after starting instead of a full current pulse like the old EESS

Was that a Song Chuan relay that was bad? The reason I ask I have a Nartron box on the bench in pieces awaiting said relay. It appears I will be able to lift the board enough to get to the bottom of the relay on the Nartron.

 

[Gastrap]

Was that a Song Chuan relay that was bad? The reason I ask I have a Nartron box on the bench in pieces awaiting said relay. It appears I will be able to lift the board enough to get to the bottom of the relay on the Nartron.

Yes, all the relays in this box were that brand. As a heavy equipment mechanic, most of the welded contacts I see in a start relay or solenoid are usually from extended cranking attempts with low batteries, so I wouldn't blame the relay for that. I replaced it with the same brand relay. Though obviously Chinese, they're in a Volvo marked bag with military sticker and CAGE code, and say country of origin United States.

When my wife's Jeep was new the remote start wouldn't work. I replaced all the Song Chuan brand mini relays with Denso and it's worked fine for 4 years now, so I'm not really a fan of that brand.

 

[TNDRIVER]

Yes, all the relays in this box were that brand. As a heavy equipment mechanic, most of the welded contacts I see in a start relay or solenoid are usually from extended cranking attempts with low batteries, so I wouldn't blame the relay for that. I replaced it with the same brand relay. Though obviously Chinese, they're in a Volvo marked bag with military sticker and CAGE code, and say country of origin United States.

When my wife's Jeep was new the remote start wouldn't work. I replaced all the Song Chuan brand mini relays with Denso and it's worked fine for 4 years now, so I'm not really a fan of that brand.

Got a second box to open when I get time. I'll look for a substitute relay for it. THANKS

 

[Mogman]

What I did was give the DuraVee a ride of shame home today
After 23K of relatively trouble free terrorizing S TX it came down to this.
It started 3 days ago when a couple time it took a little longer than usual for her to fire off, that happened twice in the estimated 10 times it was started over two days, today she fired right up as usual, I had to go to the Auction site Pam works for and help her find her lost phone, when I got ready to leave it failed to start for 4-5 "cycles" then she fired up, went and fueled up and she fired right up
But after lunch in Beeville (YES Chinese) she would not fire up no matter what, the good and the bad of a computer controlled drive train, they are overall very dependable but when it goes south it goes SOUTH!!
I did not ever get a MIL light when it was running but of course it may have codes, and I will have to connect the laptop to see if it is building enough rail pressure to start, it could be a CP3 pump failure as the donor did have 300K on it
Diggy dog did not care, she got to ride in three different vehicles today so she is happy!!

EDIT, this may not be too bad, I plugged in my code reader and it did not power up! the OBDII plug gets its power from the Power Train unswitched 12V bus, without that it ain't gunna run

 

[Thunderbirds]

It's been a while driving, maintaining and updating the 1999 M1123. Recently I have built and installed a center console for added accessories such as a stereo, cabin lights, voltmeters for the aft battery (transmission supply) and both together, placed the GPS speedo, analog tach, an inside outside ambient air temperature displayand plenty of switches for future back up camera, off road LED lighting, and other stuff. Even added a cell phone holder/charger for Pandora since my stereo is only Bluetooth, no radio or other features.



Pretty simple design and build, 1/4" underlayment plywood, cut to fit the upper width and lower dimensions of the doghouse cover.




Installed two rows of switches with voltmeters for 12 Volt and 24 Volt indications, fused for the upper row in the back of the panel, and reset-able circuit breakers for the lower 24 Volt (was an afterthought to go that route).



The tach was tricky, when I connected it to 12 volts, it would not work correctly at all but when connected to 24 Volts, it is spot on. Maybe that'll help someone down the road? I stuck with green LED lighting for the cab lighting above the seats and under dash to match the tach color and switch led colors.






Simply connected the panel on the upper rail below the windshield with two 5/16" bolts, added the side wings with Gorilla Tape to close the compartment off, looking for a more permanent solution down the road. It works great so far. Painted it with camo green, soundproofed the rear with 1/4" Silless soundproofing.



Pretty happy with it so far, makes it more comfortable driving with entertainment and cabin dome lighting. Also, huge difference for soundproofing the interior. I was hoping for good results, but it was better than I thought. I can only recommend to everyone to consider soundproofing the doghouse area...

 

[Mogman]

What I did was give the DuraVee a ride of shame home today
After 23K of relatively trouble free terrorizing S TX it came down to this.
It started 3 days ago when a couple time it took a little longer than usual for her to fire off, that happened twice in the estimated 10 times it was started over two days, today she fired right up as usual, I had to go to the Auction site Pam works for and help her find her lost phone, when I got ready to leave it failed to start for 4-5 "cycles" then she fired up, went and fueled up and she fired right up
But after lunch in Beeville (YES Chinese) she would not fire up no matter what, the good and the bad of a computer controlled drive train, they are overall very dependable but when it goes south it goes SOUTH!!
I did not ever get a MIL light when it was running but of course it may have codes, and I will have to connect the laptop to see if it is building enough rail pressure to start, it could be a CP3 pump failure as the donor did have 300K on it
Diggy dog did not care, she got to ride in three different vehicles today so she is happy!!

EDIT, this may not be too bad, I plugged in my code reader and it did not power up! the OBDII plug gets its power from the Power Train unswitched 12V bus, without that it ain't gunna run
View attachment 948695

UPDATE turned out to be a defective Chicom fuse panel, the input bus bar was making int. connection to the unswitched power control lead fuse clip (AGU fuses)
It holds 4 AGU fuses, powering the lights, transfer case, transmission and engine (ECM) I just moved over and doubled up with the lights for now.
But the big problem is, am I going to be able to even find a decent panel to replace it, I see tons of Chicom panels being used in projects (like the one above) and they have pretty much put the US manufactured stuff out of business and they are all crap.....

 

[Thunderbirds]

UPDATE turned out to be a defective Chicom fuse panel, the input bus bar was making int. connection to the unswitched power control lead fuse clip (AGU fuses)
It holds 4 AGU fuses, powering the lights, transfer case, transmission and engine (ECM) I just moved over and doubled up with the lights for now.
But the big problem is, am I going to be able to even find a decent panel to replace it, I see tons of Chicom panels being used in projects (like the one above) and they have pretty much put the US manufactured stuff out of business and they are all crap.....

Maybe soon the American manufact will make a comeback. I agree most chinacrap barely passes for something usable , but like you said, it is almost impossible to find real quality assemblies. I’m sure they’re out there, and one may have to do some mature research to locate them. For a minor system like my little mockup, the fuse panel works good enough,. For your needs you’ll need something better built. Hope you can get it all together soon…

 

[ufoDziner]

Removed 400A gen.

 

[ufoDziner]

Shortened the height of the exhaust by 6” so it can fit in my garage.

 

[BLK HMMWV]

Shortened the height of the exhaust by 6” so it can fit in my garage. View attachment 948913

I had to do the same thing. I also learned the hard way to not leave the riser in weapons tray.

 

[TOBASH]

It's been a while driving, maintaining and updating the 1999 M1123. Recently I have built and installed a center console for added accessories such as a stereo, cabin lights, voltmeters for the aft battery (transmission supply) and both together, placed the GPS speedo, analog tach, an inside outside ambient air temperature displayand plenty of switches for future back up camera, off road LED lighting, and other stuff. Even added a cell phone holder/charger for Pandora since my stereo is only Bluetooth, no radio or other features.

View attachment 948712

Pretty simple design and build, 1/4" underlayment plywood, cut to fit the upper width and lower dimensions of the doghouse cover.

View attachment 948713

View attachment 948714
Installed two rows of switches with voltmeters for 12 Volt and 24 Volt indications, fused for the upper row in the back of the panel, and reset-able circuit breakers for the lower 24 Volt (was an afterthought to go that route).

View attachment 948715

The tach was tricky, when I connected it to 12 volts, it would not work correctly at all but when connected to 24 Volts, it is spot on. Maybe that'll help someone down the road? I stuck with green LED lighting for the cab lighting above the seats and under dash to match the tach color and switch led colors.

View attachment 948716

View attachment 948717


Simply connected the panel on the upper rail below the windshield with two 5/16" bolts, added the side wings with Gorilla Tape to close the compartment off, looking for a more permanent solution down the road. It works great so far. Painted it with camo green, soundproofed the rear with 1/4" Silless soundproofing.

View attachment 948718

Pretty happy with it so far, makes it more comfortable driving with entertainment and cabin dome lighting. Also, huge difference for soundproofing the interior. I was hoping for good results, but it was better than I thought. I can only recommend to everyone to consider soundproofing the doghouse area...

Elegant in its simplicity. Well done!

 

[Greg841]

I found out a couple weeks ago the heater core diverter valve died in my 1151 so the front a/c wouldn't work. The hot forecast made me get moving to fix it yesterday, I used the instructions on here to eliminate the electric switch and just use a ball valve. Being able to run the fan now without the heat or a/c is great!

 

[DDS]

Painting the bed before installing aluminum partition. Also recently installed console.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Godspeed131]

Have you ever had one of those jobs you needed to get done on the truck that wound up leading into another then another? Well thats what happened to me. Back in April i was driving the 1152 when I started to get a vibration in the drive line. I had recently changed the rear pads and brakes so I knew that was not it so I crawled under to find the u joints bad on the rear shaft. So i dropped it and changed the joints, easy enough. Then I thought while that’s out I’ll pull the fuel tank since it leaks from the top plate. So I did that and replaced all seals and hoses and removed the check valves while it was out. Then since that was out I ran all new vent lines that were bad as well, which was a job in itself.

I had reinstalled all of the fuel tank and associated parts and was going to bleed the fuel system but before that I thought, well my valve covers were leaking so since the fuel system is drained, and giving I would have to bleed the fuel system again if I didn’t fix it now, I proceeded to reseal the valve covers. So this past Sunday I tackled that along with changing out the lift pump since I had noticed it was leaking around its body crimp. Got it all buttoned up Monday and now it’s finally back on the road. the first picture is of the valve covers reseal job.

I don’t have many pictures but I’ll post what I have. I had forgot to post pictures from last fall of my attbar top conversion so I’ll post that as well. While I swapped tops I went ahead and lizard skinned and bed lined the truck so I’ll include those pictures as well. Now there is so much room for activities inside the cab now than it was with 1152 two man top. Hopefully before long I’ll finish restoring the set of x doors I have for the front and acquire the back doors and then finish laying the rest of the camo soon. I prolly need to start a separate thread to document all this work from the start but maybe later?