Whats the best glow plug for the cucv

[Sasquatch]

I replaced mine last year when I bought the truck with the DieselRX Wellmans because thats what the Wiki recommended. Once I had them installed I started reading all the threads about them swelling and causing trouble. I'm pretty sure the DieselRX and the SSDieselSupply ones are the exact same plugs because both are supposed to be made in the USA and are based in Indiana. Since they were brand new I haven't bothered to buy a set of the Boschs or AC60G's yet but I probably will next spring just to avoid any trouble.

So far they have worked fine for me, was 22 this morning and it started right up without a block heater. Just tested them the other week and all were still good.

 

[M1008driver]

You can do the gp bypass and leave the resistor attached to your truck in case you ever want to go back. I took mine out.

I use 60g's with a gp resister bypass and replaced the relay with the BWD S603. I put the old relay under my seat for emergencies.

The result is I let my truck sit for a week in the cold and it started up with no problems. I go hunting from before sunrise to after dark and the truck starts with no problems. That's the result I was hoping for.

 

[mr.travo]

The AC60G's are 24 volt, right?

 

[doghead]

The AC60G's are 24 volt, right?

No.

 

[mr.travo]

Crap. Well, I don't want to convert to 12 volt so who makes a good 24 volt glowplug?

Thanks!

 

[doghead]

CUCVs do NOT use 24 volt glow plugs.

 

[mr.travo]

I thought it was a 24 volt starting and glowplug system.

 

[doghead]

This has been said many many times.

The stock GP sytem is supplied with 24v but, the combination of the resistors on the firewall and the resistance of 8 good glow plugs, in combination, drops the 24 volts supplied, to 12 volts(the voltage range of the glow plugs). If just one glow plug has a bad connection or goes bad, the rest will blow in succession(as the voltage will increase with each gp failure).

That's the bad thing about not converting to 12v supply.

Why don't you want to convert to 12v supply?

 

[mr.travo]

Geeze, I guess my mind is really starting to slip. Am I real? Am I dreaming? LOL!

 

[mr.travo]

I have multiple military trucks and I use the slave cables. I like to be able to slave others off when needed.

 

[doghead]

You can still use the slave cables to jump other vehicles.

The issue is, If you need to jump a cucv that has had it's GPs resupplied with 12v, and the front battery is stone dead, you might have trouble getting it started(unless you charge the front battery well).


You can do the conversion with one simple wire replacement. You could always reconnect the stock 24v wire in an emergency when you need to slave start it. This would take about 1 minute to do.

 

[cpf240]

I have multiple military trucks and I use the slave cables. I like to be able to slave others off when needed.

I've been wondering about this myself. I see many people say that you won't be able to jump via a slave cable if you bypass the GPs to 12v. I don't understand this, as the slave cable puts 24v across both batteries... so, does that mean the 12v just disappears? Now maybe it is not as strong as the full 24v would be, but I'm reasonably sure it won't be zero.

Perhaps I'm just missing something about how the, essentially, center-taped 12v source would measure when 24v is applied across the series-connected dead batteries. Has anyone measured this while under jump conditions via slave cable? I mean, the truck will still need the 12v system to function, otherwise no GP controller, no starter relay, no cut-off solenoid on the IP, etc.

Would love to hear what others think about this!

 

[doghead]

Just do a search, we've hashed this over dozens of times, in detail.

 

[mr.travo]

Well, let me ask you Doghead-

1. Would I be able to put it on a toggle switch for 12v or 24v for the GPs??

2. If the 12v is the good running one and I am slaving another dead, would it make a difference?

 

[doghead]

1, no, not easily or cheaply. A switch would need to take about 75 amps. You simply would need to remove the wire on the top of the gp relay and swap it. One nut.

2, it would make no difference, it would work fine.

I answered these 2 questions in post 31.

 

[McCluskey]

Is it possible to remove the resister bank and wire it to run 24v GPs?

 

[M1008driver]

OK, so I wanted to know myself and did the search for you. I think it is pretty clear after reading some.

TM9-2320-289-34P CABLES AND SLAVE CONNECTOR . . . Page 57-1

TM 9-2320-289-20 Slave receptacle . . .Page 4-84

TM 9-2320-289-10 Slave start truck.. . Page 2-86

No GP Resistor on Oh9. Do I need it?

Is it possible to remove the resister bank and wire it to run 24v GPs?

The glow plugs are 12V, the resistor feeding them is supplied from 24V. The controller card CANNOT handle 24V and will die a smokey death if 24V is applied to it for very long.

Testing 12v Resistor

 

[mr.travo]

Thank you guys!

 

[Terra1936]

I replaced mine last year when I bought the truck with the DieselRX Wellmans because thats what the Wiki recommended. Once I had them installed I started reading all the threads about them swelling and causing trouble. I'm pretty sure the DieselRX and the SSDieselSupply ones are the exact same plugs because both are supposed to be made in the USA and are based in Indiana. Since they were brand new I haven't bothered to buy a set of the Boschs or AC60G's yet but I probably will next spring just to avoid any trouble.

So far they have worked fine for me, was 22 this morning and it started right up without a block heater. Just tested them the other week and all were still good.

If you still have the cGCV what kind of life did the GP's get?

 

[cucvrus]

If you still have the cGCV
I'll bite. What is this thing you speak of?