Recent content by rockspider

I believe the noise is due to the hydraulic lifters being old and worn, and thick cold oil doesn't help either. In winter the engine is much more rattling and knocking in the first minutes of idling than it is on warmer months.

The leak on the rear output of the transfer case is pretty easy and inexpensive to fix. Just pull out the driveshaft and change the oil seal. It's a press fit. Pry the old out with a big screwdriver and grip pliers. Carefully push the new in, wood block and/or soft hammer and a little care...

I'm resurrecting this old thread 'cause I need some extra infos. One of my alts is dead beyond repair, the guy at the repair shop said the rotors windings are gone, broken somewhere inside. The other alt is still working but shows signs of age, has been rebuilt abt 2 years ago and from then I...

I asked same info to an electrician workshop, he is very optimistic and told me to not worry, whichever diesel tach I'm going to buy aftermarket, chances are it will work from that small brown wire post, or he can open the alt and just pick one of the phases signal and make the tach work with...

DON'T ! :!::!::!::!::!: What you made is very dangerous! Steering lift blocks must be bolted on top of arm using correct lenght stud bolts, they are higher strenght than 8.8 ! And there's a reason they are not full thread, the stud smooth portion of body is stronger than a threaded bolt and...

It has been said before, but here is a short summary: Your Dodge (if it's the avatar one) has a turbodiesel. Exhaust gases after the turbo have very low energy and require less muffling capacity than a NA diesel. Second, the newer turbodiesels burn much cleaner than old vintage diesels...

Is it that single brown wire, that has a rubber covered round female plug? If I buy a diesel tach, do I have to splice that wire for the tach, or can i remove the original one and wire only the tach? Is it necessary to keep the brown wire connected? Or was it connected to the diagnostic plug...

Thanks for teh answers and for the link to that old discussion, I happened to not find that one on my search. I understand your point, if 24v arrives to the card orange wire just for a moment before the voltage drops due to the resistor, the card "can" survive, if it gets full 24v all the time...

Sorry to bring up again a thread about Glow Plugs :-D, but even after reading all I found here about GP's and related items, I still have a question. From what I understood reading here, correct me if wrong: The Military at that time choose to have the CUCV (I have a M1008 ) must be able to...

Old thread but sounds like the pass side alt was not properly isolated on ground stud, maybe a mistake during first rebuild? How has this story ended up?

I was thinking the same but have no definitive answer. Anybody knows a sure answer to this? (see previous posts #13 #14 and #20) Me too would like to get rid of the resistor and correlated snowball-destructive-effect and switch GP and relay to Hummvee 24v ones. Any help?

I check everytime if both gen lights are on before cranking, but a bulb is a bulb, it can die every day of the year without any previous sign. So I'm not very happy about those missing parallel resistor that the military choose to not install. I'd prefer to see that I do have a faulty bulb but...

On mine I have front 4" HD Tuff Country with thicker HD shackles (with 1/2" bolts), the rear stock leaf pack less 2 shorter leafs (remove the upper overload pack if you have it, but keep the straight thick overload leaf between leaf pack and perches), then 2.5" shackle flip with 6" HD shackles...

Thanks Taz and 1956_4x4 for the infos, even if those are 20 years old numbers, at least I have now something to start from! A question, has that pto a reversible rotation direction or is it fixed? A friend of mine pointed out that if it's fixed, I'll not be able to use it for dual winches...

RE: Re: PTO for a NP205, need info Thanks Smitty, I'll be waiting for your info.