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When I bypassed mine, it ran scorchingly hot, it would hit 1400 on the pre-turbo pyro in seconds flat. I ended up turning it down 18 or 20 flats to get it to 1150 on a grade.
It ran like a raped ape! But I was afraid I would fry things.
Use a carbide boring bar. Some are hard as can be, some are really tough and springy. I take the ID out to .125 over the max spline diameter. No problems yet.
The rust converters taks iron oxide (red rust) and convert them to iron phosphate (blue/black/grey)by replacing the oxygen atoms with phosphorous atoms. Iron phosphate conversion coatings are used in many paint shop pretreatment systems (mine at work included).
Most of the rust converters use...
All the ones I have use curved metal backs. I may have an extra back panel in the basement, I do have a pair of cushions I made from plywood and golf car seat foam if you need them. They were plush, but too thick for me. Put me too close to the steering wheel.
6V53 Detroit will fit if you push the engine forward a bit. This clears the steering column. You need a longer stub shaft, and a modified shifter. If I was going that route, I would use this as the opportunity to add an 8 speed tranny and take advantage of the extra space. 12V71 would be...
Yep. The fuel density compensator varies the fuel delivery rate according to the viscosity of the fuel being used. Gasoline is low viscosity, and lower BTU content per gallon, so it increases the fuel rate. Diesel is higher viscosity, higher BTU content, so it backs the fuel rate off. If the FDC...
I made up a pair for a couple of doors I had that were rusty, I think they are still in the basement somewhere. I have access to a big box and pan brake. I have seen some on GL that had a patch panel that ran the length of the door, lapped over the ends and bottom, and covered the rusty area...
Bjorn
If you just removed the U-Joint to get the driveshaft apart, and didn't hurt anything, you can re-install it. I doubt you are going to put 30,000 miles on the truck anytime soon.
The expansion plug in the driveshaft can be bought at any auto parts store. Those are called "Flat core plugs"...
I have seen a few Timken axles on some really early M35's. I think the casting number is what he has found, certainly not the build date. I've always seen the build dates stamped on a tag or into the cebter section casting, never cast in place.
Bjorn
That slip yoke was splined with a broach. That plug is basically a freeze plug, and can be removed like one. Pop that joint out and you can put a bar in there and press it out. The plug will go back in, just smack it with a hammer to get it expanded again.
RE: more pics of unknown duece
Looks a lot like an early M35 that went through Memphis Equipments shop. The windshield looks like one of their conversions. It should be a standard deuce windshield frame with the canvas top front edge removed. A flat piece of 11 gauge is welded across the front...
Bjorn
Knock the u-joints out. Get 2 short pieces of steel rod that will just fit through the holes in the driveshaft where the bearing cups go. Insert rods. Place a pair of 10 ton hydraulic jacks between the rods, one on each side of the shaft (use steel or oak cribbing to make up the length)...
FT, That C that you got from me failed almost the same way. The seals held, but i heard the shriek when the compressor started rubbing the housing. Mine had spun the bearing out and worn out one bearing bore. Before I installed my second turbo (D) I made sure the shaft was well oiled and turning...
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