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looks good from a distance,,,, little lumpy close up but it does the trick.

Or,,,, wire up a reducer to supply 12vdc to the Jake circuit wiring, and a limited number of 12vdc accessories. This is how I power my jakes. as I don't want to be hunting up an expensive 24vdc Jake solenoid. mine is a smaller reducer for 30A yes.... Will is the man to go to for the Cummins...

Found the other pics of the hood Mod. basically cut on the flat edge of the hood where the side meets the roll for the top. easier to graft in metal and weld to a flat edge than recreate a rolled edge. Kept it intact at the rear near the hood hinges, and lifted the front up about 2" - 2.5"...

The push rods are the same,,. You should be able to put the Jake's on the rear heads with no hood mod. I had the turbo pipe so I had to lift it another 2-3" over the Jake height. The front Jake is an automatic hood mod but you may be able to lift the grill about an inch or so to gain the...

Surgically cut the top off the hood where the top meets the edges, all the way back to the hinges,. Took the top and raised it about 3" in the front and filled the gap with sheet metal,. Welded, and somewhat smoothed with fiberglass and done. Yes I have a killer view of Devils Tower

found pic of oil line. This is with the Jake installed and the old (black vavle cover) in place. second pic is the oil passage plugs, solid plug is what we have, the open plug is what needs to be inserted for the Jake kit. oil plug location

you may be able to squeak by, I had to mod mine but I have the cross over tube for the turbo.. mind you the pic of clearance is with the hood cut for mod. Also,, you will have to move the port on the firewall for the oil pressure line. I scalped my hood and added 3" to it, raising the top...

I see a crane drive grease pot.... no progress on the rotary manifold for either of us... mine is sitting in the floor, but hey,,, parts in the floor are cheap compaired to "I need it yesterday, can you overnite???" wish I could convince the wife of this when it comes to the MG42/53 LMG...

The tapptalk link is requiring a download before play.. careful, the Mods will get upset if linking continues... they tend to like the embedded video.... not trying to be the fun police, just seen a couple other guys get scolded for the tapatalk stuff recently in other threads.. really...

Minor challenges, especially when your dealing with the complexity of a wrecker,,,,,,, Come on, all you whiners with tractors,,, you have open frame rails and can get to most everything... we have extra shafts and strange boxes and a laundry list of "Unobtainium" parts hanging under...

Turbo and Jakes are a whole another world when it comes to the old 855's. Absolutely LOVE my Jakes... the Jake to look for is the 425, Models you will find are 25a and 25b and 425. 425 was the last, most updated. I have the 25a's and they are good, but a pain to adjust. with the jake...

after watching you and M1 go through this my fears have been well confirmed about the better route being to swap axles,,,,, however I do prefer S-cam over getting a wedgy-only a mild pun intended.....

Thanks Davis for the esmet link,,, I went to a Crosley Becket on my crane back when the cable broke and I couldn't find the esmet ends,,, but have been wondering where to get the esmet ends for the winches.

Eriks Military sells a plug and play adapter harness that goes between your "master vehicle light switch" and the incoming harness that will splice the 2 wires that need connected to make the headlites and park lites run like a civy rig.... I used this connector instead of trying to splice the...

ive been curious about the synthetic (rope) versions myself,,,, Wonder how it will stand up to the grease and the knicks in the pulleys from years of steel cable use... I can see the synthetic being a little more problematic as far as getting caught in the gaps in the pulleys and rollers.... I...

Turbo and a properly tuned pump will cool the 250 down some... mine was running hotter naturally aspirated, now I see 700-900 instead of the over 1000*F temps pre turbo.... Simp, you still got a line on a good pump rebuilder ???,,, mine is taching out at 1800 and I suspect its got low...

800s go through the floor Peterbilt style, from there they swing off the frame. If going air brakes the inner pedal(looking up from under truck) can be eliminated thus making more room on the swing pivot. the Clutch pedal on the 800s is actually outside the frame rail and above the tool box...

Hmmm.... ok,, theoretically, as I don't want to drop a tank right now for shnicks and giggles... but if the driver tank was moved to the pass side,,, the filler would be either under the cab (oriented as it sits on driver side,) or under the bed/outrigger(turned around) thus a major PITA to...

Pre oiling on our trucks is a good idea as most of these units are now in the hobby side, and don't get run much..(same can be said for motorpool or NG units too) however I don't want to go down that rabbit hole... Whether the engine needs a prelube or not, the fact remains that the Turbos...

same concept as a ripper on a Cat D9 ^ but with "wings" on the ripper... Although,,, Im not man enough to carry a ripper around with me...... Yall have fun with that.... I agree with Davis..... best thing with a wrecker is to not get it stuck to begin with..... though I know it will...