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Yes, one could certainly drive with them installed. Before heading out though, you'll need to take a careful look at how the suspension works. The pin on top of the leaf pack (to which the sling adapter attaches) moves with the spring. On flat ground, I'm sure it'd rattle like crazy, but it...

I don't know California's code... Under Federal code, every state I do know, most of Canada, and the industry, there is a BIG distinction. Air brakes are just that. Full air. Air over hydraulic brakes are a full air system (you step on a air valve), and the full air system serves only to...

The brake lights (in EITHER switch configuration) are activated by pressure in the braking circuit. With the original switch it is pressure in the hydraulic circuit. With the air update, it's pressure in the air assist circuit. If your brakes are working, and the power assist is working, then...

Check your grounds anyhow, even though you don't suspect it. Just as "electronic modules", "electrical modules", circuit boards, chips, and electronic components in general can be temperature sensitive, so can a weak ground. When they're on the hairy edge of conducting "well enough" or not, the...

I look at it like this- The belt system drives the fan, the water pump, the alternator, and the air compressor. The alternator is not placed under a high demand anyhow, and it's demand (engine load) will NOT change with engine RPM. No gain. The water pump is very small relatively speaking...

Thermal Overcrank Protection. :) Actually, the wire will probably do just fine even though it's underspec'ed for sure. It's the terminations (and their interface with said wire) that are going to be the weak link. They're a good field repair to get you home, but not really a finished repair...

When you're in the "overlap zone", the truck really doesn't care. If I'm going up through the gears, I usually start in low range, work up to five, then flip the transfer up (and the main to four) for the next upshift. If I'm loosing gears, it usually works out best to leave the transfer in...

This will certainly get the job done. If you're going to "steal" power out of one of the batteries, you'll cook the other one if you don't pay attention to them. They will become biased. Depending on how much is "stolen", probably not too big of a deal, but the "low" battery (the zero to...

If a Mico lock is what you have in mind, I'd have no problem with it for what you describe. We have supplemented a lot of tow trucks over the years with them. They are remarkably trouble free, very intuitive to use once you see the diagram of how they work, they have a bleeder if you need it...

That's about normal and expectable. The primary purpose of the slobber tube, road draft tube, etc is to vent the crankcase of combustion byproducts that arrive there in the form of "blowby", or normal leakage past the excellent but not quite perfect seal at the piston rings. Of the many nasty...

I think that after averaging out this tank, and several more you will find that your sample is WAY too small. That 3116 doesn't deliver that kind of efficiency. I use a dipstick to supplement an intermmitantly working and highly inaccurate gauge. I can assure you that you that quarter inch...

Grade 8 will hold it for sure. "Right" would be what most of us uneducated machanic's call "frame bolts" (I'm sure there's a real name, but that's what everyone I know calls them), truck shops and spring shops keep them. They're designated as grade 8, but they're a flange head, and they use a...

I've really got to disagree here... Every car, maybe... Light truck? Where are you breaking that class? half tons? No air brakes in a half ton trucks, but how many of those little cabover city trucks have air, and are rated at a lower GVW than a lot of 3/4 ton pickups... No, not at all...

I did that... I used a nipple and a coupler on the glad hand so that I could use any air hose with it, not just the one. I also have a gauge on the glad hand. With that, I can sit at the rear of the truck, and use the on/off valve on the truck (and a locking tire chuck) to inflate a newly...

There's plenty of leeway in a pipe thread, and even more in a rubber hose. I don't think it's really "necessary"... Although if you truely want it for appearance or a variation that I'm not envisioning, then McMaster's got them. When I did mine I did pretty much the same, but I did not do it...

Those are stock wheels with large tires. Look carefully, in that configuration the rears are a good bit wider than the front. In dual configuration the front axle width is designed to "split" the difference in width between the inner and outer rear tires. Look at that "trucks" page you linked...

The video is a good start to know where the controls are, but a winch is a very versatile device. There is no substitute for knowing how, when, and why a winch operates the way it does, how, when, and why a cable lays on the drum the way it does, (in particular why it doesn't sometimes)...

Doghead's method gets my vote for sure. I'm pretty sure that it's common knowlege that somewhere, some time, some how... Someone, even someone who knows better, will run the winch by themselves. There is a LOT that can go wrong. The big key you need is patience. The second is diligence...

That one has just been done in the Alternative Fuels area fairly recently. Garbage of the worst kind. It's an emulsifier (bad, bad news), and hype of the worst kind too. I don't care if it was good, it should be boycotted if for no other reason than for insulting your intelligence as you read...

That depends where it's coming from. Probably fixable. If there's a diesel pump shop near you they have see these injectors before, just not the tips. (And they've "probably" seen those before too once or twice). They can fix you right up.