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Hmmm... You posted while I was posting. Wow, I am quite sure the used seal I was measuring was from the same manufacturer, no name but the marks are IDENTICAL. But it measured 40 thousandths. (.0406 I think, just the tiniest smidge over a millimeter but NOT a millimeter and a half by any...

I have determined that the seal being removed for replacement would make excellent shims if I could figure out how to cut the center out of them without damaging them beyond reuse... I could do that with a lathe. Of course if I had a lathe, I'd have had a press long before that. Besides which...

What part does it need to repair it? It's a standard SAE pattern starter, unless all they are is a stocking reseller for overseas reman parts, whoever looked at it should be able to list five starters in a dozen configurations off the top of his head that would bolt right in. More if he wants...

Yes, they are standard threads. They are fine threads. Many mechanic's (and by extension I'm quite sure some of the ones in the military as well) are pretty convinced that half of a bottle of locktite is the solution for bolts that are prone to backing off, and torque wrenches are an old wives...

As to the need or validity, maybe... don't rule out mechanical conditions here either. You should get a little something daily, but it shouldn't be that much with no filter. As for Google failing you, don't look for a filter. What's approved and accepted and semi-standard in the trucking...

The old 7.3 (and the 6.9 before them) were excellent engines for their intended purpose, and they served quite well. Trouble is, expectations were for performance in the wrong places and more of it than the engine was ever supposed to deliver, which always leads to disappointment. They just...

Too much current, or resistance where there should not be resistance. Poor connection, or way too much current. Or some combination of the two. Vague so far. So what your really saying is that you have no idea if there's power anywhere, but something is not allowing the electrical...

Don't update. Expand your collection. You can find the same issue going the other way too.

Zip ties are legit, correct, and required. Make sure they're good ones, lots of the ones you see are plasticky and brittle, and won't stay. My brakes are apart right now, or I'd check with a tape. A good brake pedal (with the air fully charged) stops under firm (heavy) application just a hair...

Indeed it does, but other TMs have different procedures. They are also very unclear as to when they are seating cups and when they are preloading to find a set position. They also imply that the seal is capable of withstanding the torque required to seat the cups. They are not wrong anywhere...

The high torque application is not to set the bearing in the race, but rather to set the race (the cup) into the hub securely. It need only be done if the race is removed, it should ALWAYS involve rotating the hub while torqing the nut, and the seal should NOT be present for that operation. As...

That is not a diagnosis, but it certainly gives you a clue towards a "most likely" cause, and thus can begin a systematic and logical progression to nail down the culprit. If it's a hydrolock (or other mechanical interference) then you have that PLUS an electrical problem. The starter can't...

Connections must be good, however the first check should be the batteries themselves. The volt gauge operates, but what did it say? When you flipped the switch on, the needle came up, but how far? When the starter button was pressed, how far did said voltage get dragged down? That...

It's ten thirty at night. It's raining. There's coyotes out there. I hope you appreciate this... It's uphill both ways. Top of the axle housing to the bottom of the fill plug threads is 4 and one quarter inches. A little proud of that actually, but not quite four and five eights. General...

There is a level winding device on some of the heavier wreckers, they don't fit an M35 winch though. Besides, they're not fool proof, and "devices" make complacency. There is a sweet spot where the cable will pretty much walk back and forth as it should and stack it's self nicely. Very...

Every one is different. The only assurance you'll get from this forum is that regardless of GVW, regardless of size, regardless of laws, regardless of rules, and regardless of the ambition levels of all of those in charge, good bad or indifferent, an M35 will ALWAYS be recieved differently by...

Unless your oil comes from Europe, You'll prolly burn more synthetic in the oil that wasn't badged as synthetic than you will from the oil that is badged as synthetic. The US has very low standards when it comes to oil.

The fact that it is repeated and related to wheel position means that your investigation should start at the "top" end of the steering system. That is, the shaft and the worm inside the box. The way to identify this for sure (or at least the easiest and first attempt at such) would be to...

I'm not positive, but I think it's obsolete through GM... It came from their government division, it's unique to the CUCV, so I wouldn't count on it at the parts counter as an assembly. I THINK that they still have those exact rings (those are nothing unique) and the fancy (kind of...

See!!! I knew he'd find a way out of explaining where those extra BTUs came from...:-D