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:-)

Hello and welcome fellow Utahn I totally know the 1/2 track "old lady" aka "Kilroy was here" as it has been to several events I have attended and it was in Wendover this past weekend with a few other members of U.M.V.C (Utah Military Vehicle Club) that I know a handfull of Steel Soldiers...

Sounds like I'm going to have to come visit you and see some of this up close :-)

Nicely done. and WELCOME Fellow Utahn! Btw I have included your photo's as the site prefers that you post the images rather than linking.

If looking in the NSL/WoodsCross area check into LW Miller as their shops are always busy (and is where I get my trucks inspected and purchase some repair parts such as airlines & fittings) but they also have shops in Logan & Tremonton

Hello and welcome from Utah

Hello and welcome from Utah

I prefer the Hardtops for the Winters we have in Utah. The softtops are much easier to deal with when wanted to drive around in a convertible truck. Also a hard top will last much longer when kept rust free.

What did GP management say when you confronted them with the damage? For the OP don't get discouraged. A good one will most likely show up for you sooner than later

It can be accomplished pretty easily with a kit purchased from "Those Military Guys" which will allow you to pull all the lines/wheel valves/QRV's/PCU & ECU and the wiring harness and not worry about any contaminates getting into the wrong places or if you have a good hydraulic supply house near...

Honestly I have no clue as I don't have a 936....but with the equal rotation that's is all I could come up with...

Nicely done. What temps and boost are you seeing?

I would agree with Tow4 that $500 for all six would be a good price but way way to much for a single axle let alone a single wheel.

I would check to see if anything is caught in the cogs (teeth of the gears) of the rotater

Sorry but the CTIS system is not a system I would consider reliable in any long term time frame. We have almost 25+ years with the system and they still fail regularly. I ran it on my M923a2 for over a year (1200 miles) and during that time I replaced 2 wheel valves, 1 QRV, 1 air separator...

Hello and welcome from Utah from a San Joaquin county transplant. (Manteca). I maybe a fair bit older chronologically (48 8) but that's just a number :-)

This post will show you how to bypass the PCB http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?113634-Ever-see-inside-the-Protective-Control-Box&p=1557388&viewfull=1#post1557388 Also I would suggest reading the whole thread as there is a lot of useful info in there.

Could be a bad ignition switch. Have you tested it with a DVM (Digital Volt Meter) to verify that power is present to the switch and if power is leaving the switch when moved to the other positions?

Yep....Pull the vent and apply around 5psi with bleeder screw open on the IP and in a minute you will have a bleed system that is ready to go.

Short term and the occasional short run really won't kill the motors but a constant habit of short running will increase wear long term. Short running in cold weather is much harder on the motors as they end up building enough heat to draw in cold moisture laden air but don't get hot enough for...