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There is a drain tube in the back to prevent the valley from filling up with water and rusting out your injection pump. Lots of threads talking about it, do some searching and you'll find pictures.
Installed horse stall mats from tractor supply. I opted to remove all of the plywood, including underneath the rear AC unit. Thats when I realized that unit has "feet" all around it and there are corresponding holes in the plywood. There are also refrigerant tubes that go straight down through...
Some sort of cable linkage would be the best of both worlds. Simplicity of a manual valve, but still able to actuate from inside the cab. I think a ball valve rigged up to a bicycle type cable may work nicely.
Edit: in fact AM general makes a cable actuated valve to turn on and off the heater...
So not technically humvee related, but I just bought a demilled M2HB barrel. Gonna build a dummy M2HB to go in the turret for parades. Couldn't resist at $125 (he has dozens at that price)
The powder coater is doing the prep, I think they are media blasting it. They did the shield and hatch on my humvee which turned out awesome. I was surprised how well it matches carc.
Edit: just confirmed they are sandblasting as well as using primer before top coating.
Its pretty light, but due to the size and awkwardness I needed my wifes help getting it off the humvee in one piece. With some creativity I'm sure it could be done with one person.
For what its worth, I used 1/4" thick aluminum.
Having had both, I'd say the biggest difference is that x doors just look cool. But they dont offer too much in practicality over soft doors.
Fyi, x doors can still be easily removed in summer if you want to drive with the doors off. They arent crazy heavy or anything.