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Sorry, missed this. Last I checked they had them at MAC Motors. I dont know if they still have any or not.

Yes, I have a DXF of the hatch I'm willing to share, PM me your email address. FYI it doesnt have any of the mounting holes, its only the outline. I did this on purpose so that I could test fit it and drill the holes in-place for the hinge and latches. Also noted, my hatch has slightly more...

What am I missing? You can get brand new enforcers for cheaper...

Finished my hatch!

Test fitting... Btw I have $145 total invested into this hatch, and so far I think its better than factory. This is after multiple people told me not to waste my time, its not worth making your own parts 🙄

Worked on a hinge/slam hatch assembly

Laser cut a turret hatch out of 1/4" 6061 aluminum. Now just need to work out a hinge solution.

How about wire pulling lube?

If someone says disconnect the negative they are probably just confusing the fact that you are supposed to do so for a battery disconnect as Coug said. If you are gonna opt for no fuse, I suggest that you install the disconnect as close to the battery as possible (electrically speaking) and...

You should lift the positive side for a disconnect. If you lift the ground, the winch will likely still "find" a ground through the chassis somewhere, so it wont be fully disconnected.

Curious about the humvee "losing a wheel." Was that a cause, or effect, of the accident?

Its my understanding that chains are stronger than gears. When two gears interface, they only make contact with 1-2 teeth at a time. Whereas a chain wraps completely around a gear and utilizes many more teeth. Edit: google says I'm wrong, but not sure why. Maybe the chain itself is the weakness.

No. But you can do what I did and replace the electronic heater valve (i forget the technical name) with the cable actuated one from an m998. Then you can add however much heat you want.

Put some weatherstripping on the turret today (inside and outside, since the brushes are hard to find and expensive). Now just need a hatch.

For what its worth, I'm not saying to avoid surplus tires, but you gotta draw the line somewhere when they get a certain age and start to crack. There are plenty of 2015 and newer tires out there still in good shape (depending on how they were stored).

I dont think anyone on here will tell you its safe to drive on 20 year old tires with cracks in the sidewall. At least, I would hope not.

It's one of them new low-friction belts I see...

PSA: Clean your engine valley. I pulled out about 5 pounds of sand, dirt, nuts & bolts, leaves, tie wraps, etc. Drain was blocked and water was sitting in there. I had immediate concerns about IP failure, especially because the water had a diesel smell. But fortunately after cleaning...

4500 is a decent deal IF all of the windows are in good shape, no missing or damaged hardware, etc.

The ones at mac motors are predrilled and countersunk with the correct holes for an m1151. I know this because I bought one. The one you have may be for a JLTV or MRAP, they both use humvee turrets but have different roofs. But thats just a guess.