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I had smoke pouring from my alternator (60 amp) so I metered the voltage. The factory setting is untouched from when I bought it (25v). I turned up the voltage slightly and the gauge needle would sit where it's supposed to for a few seconds then bounce between green and yellow. Sucks because...

I removed the tank from my truck and judging from the amount of micro cracking all over it I would assume it's original. During removal one of the return nipples actually cracked off with a chunk of the tank itself. I'm shocked the thing lasted this long! One observation, as stated previously...

I have a basic '85 M998 that almost never leaves hard stand. For better road mileage I inflate my 12-bolts to 35 psi in the summer, and 30 psi for better road traction when the snow starts flying.

Low batteries could wreak havok on the glow plug/ignition system if you're not careful. They should be removed and fully charged before engaging the truck's systems again so you don't inadvertantly fry something.

The tank i got from Woolfer is listed as being manf'd by OEM and is described as “NEW SURPLUS MILITARY OVERSTOCK”. Anybody would read that as being legit NOS, so if they're passing Chinese knock-offs as surplus NOS that's pretty shady. I hope that's not the case.

So i finally got my truck back up and running again and took it for a test run to get everything moving on her again. Of all the things to fail- the coolant overflow tank. Total what the heck moment when i lifted the hood and saw a 3-foot stream of coolant squirting all over the top of my...

It's a time consuming and messy job at the best of times. I've done both of my rear shafts and each one took me well over an hour or so each. Once you figure out how to pull them apart it gets easier, but they should be torn down and cleaned thoroughly regardless in order to check for any...

My boots were all torn to crap so I pulled mine apart and thoroughly cleaned in my parts washer. Upon thorough inspection I found they were still good to go with no corrosion or visible wear. So I spent all of about $15 on a set of new boots per side. It's time consuming but not difficult...

Being an ex-Marine humvee it has remnants of the DFK everywhere, and just and as you pointed out the rubber cap is one of them. As well, the intake duct flange on my truck is not sealed and water is entering through there with nowhere to escape since the exit point is DFK rubber-capped. Good...

This is the rubber plug covering the port on the bottom of the housing.

So, I've been working on my truck in my driveway for well over a month now. It's been raining a fair amount but I've been vigilant to cover holes and unplugged connectors and so forth to keep moisture and corrosion out. Big shock today when I pulled the rubber plug on the bottom on the air...

Before you start dumping lots of cash on replacement parts go through the troubleshooting guide in the unit maint TM book 1. It will at least help narrow down where to focus your attention. I'd recommend using a multi-meter and checking that the power gets to where it's supposed to, in my case...

The parts TM has all of the fasteners listed in detail, ie.. SCREW,CAP,HEXAGON H 1/2-13 X 4.50

My point of view is if it aint broke, don't fix it. However, the S3 (smart start system) has some perks. In theory will extend the life of the glow plugs by only activating them when required, and eliminates two minutes of V-guage bouncing. Not too sure what other advantages there are.

That pic of the little box on your LH wheel well next to the Cadillac valve is part of the fan/cooling system.

The 'octopus' ground is either purchased aftermarket or self-manufactured that's supposed to solve the poor grounding issues inherent to this truck. It starts at the stud at the LH rear of the engine block and branches out to one of the S3 mounting bolts, alternator, starter, and dash ground in...

If the box, glow plugs, and batteries are new your problem may be a bad ground or connection somewhere. Disconnect the batteries then locate, thoroughly inspect, and clean every ground and electrical connection point you can find. These trucks are horrible for grounds and corrosion. Don't...

I kinda like the hissing. It lets me know the system still works properly...:razz:

I don't inmagine the TSU's fail all that often. However, the one in your truck will have to be replaced when you choose to replace your current box with an S3.

That's the temperature sensor unit that screws into the water crossover on top of the engine. It senses the coolant temp and tells the box whether or not to activate the glow plugs. The S3 comes with a matching TSU and it's not a good idea to mix brands.