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I finally found the air leak on my van. It was the rubber hose running from the IP to the fuel filter housing. The hose didn't show any clear signs of being cracked and wasn't leaking externally, but replacing it solved everything. The truck only has 84 miles on it. Runs like a raped ape now.

Did you ever consider the International 6+1 tranny? Could get direct drive or OD (.75:1). Same amount of work as a 13 speed so not worth it? Does anyone know what actually fails with the t-case in low and in reverse? Is it the fact things are spinning backwards? Is it really just the low...

That roof was rotten and trashed. 2 of my friends were the mechanics on the 5 tons. Told me to stay far away from that particular unit.

Read 2 posts back before yours

Only problem is there's one company who's name start with a "B" that tends to buy everything out from us around here.... Half the time it doesn't even hit the yard before they've already bought it. Then the "B" company quadruples the price tag on it... And they've already bought the bridge truck...

I have some 1141 in Ø10" size at $193/foot on hand. I don't have any 13" or bigger on hand. I'll have to look into that one. I've scrapped enough A1's to accumulate enough 1400s to last me 3 life times, that's why I'd like to use them.

What material are you using and I will look up my price on it? It sounds like simp5782 has some concrete ideas on how it could be done. I have some others. There is more than one way to skin a cat, I have found. I will post back with what I find after I get to experiment a little. Why run dual...

I run my own Machining and Fabrication business called Doomsday Diesel thankfully so my prices will be nowhere near that. I'm also tagged as a farm truck so don't really care about the 102 width

This is off of the 800 series I saw with duals. I don't care about 800's. Just 939 series. The standard beadlocks and 1400's that come on them.

I've only found one thread about dual 1400's on a 5 ton and it was only about the 800 series. The reason I ask is because I saw an 800 series 5 ton the other day with dual 1400's, and now that I've taken the 1100's off my van, it looks awkward with only (1) 1400 in the rear. I will post back...

Slightly on topic.... I've also got a bundle of 855 M939's as well as an A2 with the 8.3. The 8.3 gets my vote. The 855's are gutless turds! Currently contemplating between an 8.3 swap, a 400 big cam swap, or an LBZ Duramax swap (possibly with the Chevy trans/t-case). Would like to know how you...

Was just coming back here to follow up and say I traced the extra port to my heaters in the van body. They apparently cut the line to the heaters when they "dismantled" the heat and A/C. On the front/bottom/left corner of the van body directly above the port, you can see where the fuel line...

Thanks for the quick replies! Found a bunch of threads about a problem with a soldered joint in the pickup tube, so I'll check that out. The van just started leaking here a couple days ago after I moved it, so not sure what I disturbed there, but I'll post back. One of the vent line looking...

I'll second that question. I would also like to ask how exactly you applied 5psi to the fuel system, and where you are cracking a line at the injection pump. Are you talking about an injector line from the IP? I am currently battling problems on 2 different 855's. One has a weird slow leak from...

Funny you say that, since Glen recommends dropping in a 12 valve 5.9 for a better re-power. And I've never seen an 8.3 come thru the yard. He's only gotten the non-running 855's since I've been watching.

Swapped alternators and all problems went away. Take my advice and don't use the Amazon alternator rebuild kits.

After fiddling with this truck way more than I wanted to, here are the things I've found: Rebuilt alternator 1 - No results Cleaned blower motor connection - No results Cleaned firewall main harness connector - No results Cleaned 12V firewall block terminals - No results Pulled 20A Heater fuse...

A follow up would be nice. I'm having the same exact symptoms. My heater works fine. But the GEN1 light dims the more heater/headlights I use. I rebuilt GEN1 and it changed nothing. My brown exciter wire seems to be functioning properly. But the red exciter wire shows a lot lower voltage than...

After price searching the Vanner equalizers... YIKES! They are not feasible new. But used on Ebay, very reasonable. I found some for $100-$200. Their product info is pretty vague, but it looks like you can get them where they just equalize, or they put out a lot of amps from the 12v battery...

Like I mentioned above, the pro of the 12 + 24 is that if the 12 fails, you're still OK. Obviously if the 24V fails, you're in the same boat as either alternator failing in the 12 + 12 system. Now that I've gotten a chance to read some more about Vanner's offerings, I am going to start price...