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I tried to get a photo of the tag as best as i could. I could only zoom in so far before my camera would not focus. I had to crop this out of a larger picture. Perhaps this was put on there when it was rebuilt or remanned in 2010

The data plate that I can see is a red stanadyne tag that has hand scratched numbers on it. That's what makes it kind of hard to see. I'm hovering over top of it looking down with a flashlight and mirror

The truck seems to run good otherwise. I was finally trying to fix the super early shifting issue its has since I bought it. I did have some luck with the -34p and i found its called a pump cam face. I have, however, had no luck in locating that piece by itself online.

I was going to install my new vacuum adjustumator on the side of the injector pump. Lo and behold,when I get the throttle position sensor off, it has a blade on it instead of whatever would fit into the vacuum device. I wrote down the numbers that I could see on the red tag. Is hard to read...

If it happens again, I would suggest a new bulb socket. Oxidation over the years can create a poor contact inside the socket itself. You could clean it if you wanted and had a piece of fine sandpaper.

Please for the love of all that is holy, don't put a cheap water pump on your motor. They cheap out on the bearings, they cheap out on the sealing, they cheap out on the plastic impeller. Save up your money for a decent one. It's what keeps your engine from dying a sudden hot death. That said...

You will have to change the fuel return hose to go back into your bottle of magic cleaner. Otherwise what people have done is fill the fuel filter, if you have a spin on, and just let the suction of the injection pump pull it from the bottle. Be sure to reroute the return line or it will just...

I've got a new radiator and a stant cap with the lever. When i squeeze my upper hose, I get no fluid into the recovery tank, and a tight hose. You may just need a proper radiator cap. The boiling point of a fifty fifty coolant mix is around 220f or so. So if you don't have any pressure...

I have a blackwire with white stripe that is supposed to go to my seat belt on my m1028 wrapped in a loop tucked near my fuse box as well. Probably what you have cut

HA!

Yeah, set a multimeter on resistance, and put it in the ground terminal and the other lead on the case. It should read infinite if it's still properly isolated.

I would make sure that the isolated ground in them is still isolated

It may be as simple as cleaning out old hardened grease or dirt in there, replacing a bad seal and reassembling. You won't know until you take it apart and look

You may have a bad ground connection somewhere causing the glow plug controller to back feed 12v . Your wait light should have a constant 12v at the bulb and the glow plug controller grounds the circuit. I don't have the diagrams on my phone, but you can unplug I think it's a five or six pin...

I pulled up to the circle k to fill up, and there was a 10% ethanol sticker on the diesel pump. I ended up going somewhere else. I put howes diesel treat in the m1028, an ounce per five gallons. It's not expensive, and it makes me feel better. That has to count for something.

You should put a charger on that front battery. 12.0 volts is considered a dead battery if all the cells in it are good. I wonder if you just don't have a dead cell in the front battery pulling the voltage of the alternator down. I've seen it happen to cars that come to our shop, and the...

Check your sway bar bushings as well.A bad bushing can cause the sway bar to impact the frame while turning causing a knock. It will be pretty easy to check with a pry bar prying on the sway bar near the bushings. I had this same problem and it was the old bushing pooching out of the bracket.

You may just have rusted up cables or the mechanism. Is it engaging and releasing the drum brakes when you press it and pull it up manually?

Sometimes those sample ports will leak and they'll end up being capped off, or taken off is what I meant