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Nice little mod today. Found a heavy stainless steel loaf pan online: A quick trip to Ace for some hardware (clasps, handle, nuts & bolts), grabbed an old clamp and a bent a jeep license plate bracket, and viola, road food baby! Perfect for hot dogs, burritos, corn, whatever.

Good on you. Now, when these links go, what's the best replacement? I would think a breaker would work well.

Way to take a crappy situation and keep a positive outlook on it. It would be great if you documented it here in this thread.

To make it an informative thread, how hard is it to swap out the bench in a 08/28 for buckets?

That is a great little mod. Where did you get the cup holders?

I have to agree with your sentiment about the willingness of us truck drivers to lend a hand. It truly is a unique group of folks, although I've seen it as well in 4wd and RV circles. It's not centered on the bling or any materialistic motivation, it's all about the utility, and when things...

Just pull the plugs and crank her. No need for a new engine ;?) Seriously, do you know what's up with the power plant? I can't imagine a new engine would be in the equation, unless, of course she's paying, then go with a 6bt and all the goodies you can get away with.

Also check the headlight plugs themselves, and especially the small ground wire coming off the front battery to the rad mount. Definitely post up your findings, a lot of us have had this problem. I'm looking into a permanent BO bypass.

How are your driveline angles? What about steering mods? Are you planning on crossover?

It's a M1028, not a 1009, but I've spent about 60 nights in it and I haven't even had it a year yet. Changed the oil last week since October, I burned 1/4 of a qt. over the entire winter. Not bad at all. Here's one from last week high above the Green River in UT:

Just like everything else in a CUCV, right?

Voltage wise, yes, but the rear battery is charged by a different gen, and I want to give the front gen a break, because it works for 90% of all loads. That is the goal. I just had a question regarding feeding back a ground which would be connected to the front batt.

To clear up some more confusion: Doghead has been done a long time ago. Just wondering, if I need crank only 12v, should I splice into the purple/white, or can I just run a wire with a ring connector to the starter relay that it taps into. Or should I just go straight to the starter solinoid...

Sorry, I misstyped, I need crank only for the isolator disconnect while starting. For that, should I tap into the purple/white, or just go right to the starter relay post with the purple/white? I'm very aware of the 12/24 wiring, just wondering if it's OK to pull off the rear - for 12v +, then...

Back on this post Doghead, there is currently no physical ground in the camper besides the - post of the camper battery. What if I used 12v power from the rear - battery routed through a relay to the + of the camper battery, then ran a ground cable from the camper battery - to a - bus in the...

Couple more questions on this project. If I pulled 12v from the rear battery neg post, would that give me the advantage of having the power of 2 alternators and more balancing over just using the pos on the front battery? Also, I need a hot for the ignition switch run position. Should I spice...

Mo better. What do you have plugged in?

I may have to forgo having the switch in the cab then. I just can't see where I'd be able to fish in 2g or 4g wire. I think you've got the right idea. I can still run a small wire for a LED indicator, which should be enough. Thanks.

The question was about efficient/easy access cable routing. Did you see the link?

Those 60's will fry at 24v, that is why the resistor is there.