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While waiting for my batteries to recharge, I read through the thread recommended by acesneights1 above: http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63-gm-diesel-engines/20-6-2l-diesel-engine/443715-ip-swap-lots-pics.html It all sounded familiar except the part where he said, "Don't forget to swap over...

Thanks guys. I don't own starter fluid. No worries there. I got the fuel system reassembled. Fuel lines are finger tight at the injectors. I put fresh paper towels under them so I'll see any sign of fuel. Cranked it twice for 10-sec, waiting several minutes in between. No fuel visible...

TM says to put RTV on cover. I suspect that works if you have the engine pulled, but with it in the truck I'd be worried about getting RTV on the rockers. Is there any reason not to put the sealant on the block, so you can maneuver a clean cover into place?

Advanced Auto Parts has the right stuff. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/permatex-the-right-stuff-gasket-maker-5-oz-29208/16160024-P Third time you've gotten me unstuck. Thanks!

Well, I did that in the wrong order. I ground the rust off the valve covers and repainted them. Then I went to clean off the pink gasket goo, and I found why they used pink gasket goo. The valve covers are bent up and have rust where the gasket should seal. Are these redeemable? I'm looking...

Broke the clips. Now I can't get the passenger side valve cover off. If I pry, the metal of the valve cover flexes before the gasket releases. It seems they used some pink latex goo on the threads and gaskets last time this was closed up. The TM says to pound on it with a soft hammer...

The rocker arm covers (valve covers?) are rusted, so I'd like to remove them and treat the rust. The -30 says, "Disconnect wiring harness from wiring harness clips along rocker arm cover (3 or 8 )." for the passenger side valve cover. I'm not seeing how to operate these clips without breaking...

Gotta go buy crows feet so I can torque the fuel lines properly...

Got these cone wrenches in the Bike Tools section of REI, $4.95 each. The spider is now out. https://www.rei.com/product/639275/park-tool-double-sided-dcw-1-cone-wrench https://www.rei.com/product/639276/park-tool-double-sided-cone-wrench-dcw-2 Rule of thumb for newbies. Plan on spending...

Thwarted again. I need some advice, please. I have the spider loose, but there is a metal fuel line that runs from the IP across the top of the passenger side of the spider. It's secured by clips held by 2 valve cover nuts, front and back. My problem is that the rear valve cover nut is...

Defeated by the sensor for my TinyTach. It clamps over a fuel line between the IP and the Injector. It has 2 hex screws that are either some strange size or too corroded to remove. Tomorrow I break out my Tiny Vise Grips. I have the spider loose and ready to go otherwise. In case anyone...

Thanks. I managed to get it from underneath the truck. I'm hoping to get this done without buying more tools, and my 19mm wrench is full length. I have a shorter set of flare wrenches, but they top out at 18mm, of course. I have the 3 internal IP bolts out. Working on the external ones next...

Is there a trick for accessing the back passenger side injector? Must I remove the battery tray? I can't see how to get a wrench on it, much less with room to turn the wrench...

Thanks guys. Just came in to look up how to loosen the vacuum pump so I can get the last bolt out of the intake manifold. I'd never heard of a topside creeper before. If I could go buy one somewhere right now, I'd be sorely tempted. Instead, I guess I'll just be sore. The injectors were...

Thanks! I also found this on you-tube, where a first-timer videotaped the process. He mentions he got his guidance from cucvrus here on SS. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WSX-17Kd1NU

Hi Guys. I'm about to tear into the engine and replace the IP. I've been reading TMs, wiki, FAQ and threads for hours, and finding lots of conflicting advice. Is there a good thread with pictures that shows a first-timer how to replace an IP, start-to-finish? I have to believe there is, but...

No smoke from anywhere. Picking up new IP this afternoon. It's not just a CUCV, it's an adventure!

I have 0.5GPM @ 10PSI fuel delivery to the filter from the electric pump, plus whatever the mechanical pump adds to that. It's a new filter with ~7 miles on it. The engine cranks vigorously but does not start. The injectors are ~2 yrs old, Bosch, with 18K miles on them. The IP has 12V on the...

No. I wasn't sure what to do next, so I put the electric pump between the manual pump and the filter. When disconnected from the filter, That electric pump outputs half a gallon per minute. I think that means my sock's OK, right? I would think that 0.5 GPM into the filter at 10PSI would be...

Yes, I heard the IP solenoid clunk when I removed and replaced the pink wire while confirming it had 12V in the "run" position.