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M1010 for my daughter the field biologist
- Thread starter jpg
- Start date
Volvo740turbo
New member
I hope you get this situated, reading all this has me on the edge of my seat!
Volvo740turbo
New member
cucvrus
Well-known member
I will throw my hat in the ring. I had trouble like this in the past. I had the fuel line at the rear of the cab on the cross member rub a pin hole in it. It was a tough spot to get to but it cured all the ills of the fuel issue. Also the fuel pump is easy to change. Just take your time and get the old one off and rest a while and let all the dripping stop. Go back at it fresh and take the push rod cover plate off. I met you jpg. Anyone that can follow a Maniac like me up a rocky power line in an M1010 can surely change a fuel pump. But you need to vacuum check your fuel lines. Disconnect them at the tank and the fuel pump and see if they will hold a pressure or a vacuum. I missed your adventurous self at the last few off road events. I wish I could help out. I am eyeball deep in grass cutting and CUCV's at this time. I just got my Cadillac back together. A $100. part 10 hours inside of the transaxle. But it is up and running again. I am not even crossing my fingers. I don't believe in luck. It is either fixed or its not. It is fixed and fixed right the first time. That's the way it is done. Good Luck. If you need a support bracket or a starter let me know. I can beat them prices anytime.
Thanks all.
I got a new direct drive starter from Hillbilly Wizard. I put it in today and it works great. The truck still doesn't start, but the starter cranks beautifully and it makes no nasty grinding noises. I'm hating Napa right now. The flex wheel teeth I could see looked undamaged, though I didn't pull the cover to look more broadly. The picture below shows my $350 6-month-old NAPA starter, and the shim which I reused.
Here are 2 tricks for newbies like me. First, jack the frame up high enough that the front passenger side wheel is bearing no weight. That gives you enough space between the front axle and the frame that you can remove and install the starter. You'll need at least a 24" jack stand. All normal safety rules apply, regarding working under a car that's jacked up.
Second, the manual says to remove the bracket and disconnect the wires. Don't. If you do it that way you'll never see the wires without mirrors or an inspection camera. I loosened the bracket bolts, but left them in place. I then removed the starter bolts and slid the starter forward enough that I could see and disconnect the wires. The loosened bracket supported the starter while I worked on the wires. Then I unbolted the starter from the bracket and carefully lowered it. Installation was the same thing in reverse.
I still seem to have a fuel issue. As a test, I temporarily installed a 10PSI Webasto electric fuel pump between the filter and the IP. The pump runs happily enough, but the engine still doesn't fire. The starter cranks beautifully, though. I saw no leaks under the truck, after running the pump for a while.
Questions for the wizards: Should I be able to hear fuel returning to the tank? I was hoping to hear a trickle, but maybe the outlet is low in the tank? My tank is half full... Also, what are the lines in the pictures below? They seem to run to the fuel tank, and one is insulated. ???
I ran out of daylight. Tomorrow I'll try looking at the fuel system more closely. With the electric pump in place, at least I won't be burning up my new starter trying to debug my fuel system. Maybe I'll reverse the direction of the pump and look for leaks that way.
I got a new direct drive starter from Hillbilly Wizard. I put it in today and it works great. The truck still doesn't start, but the starter cranks beautifully and it makes no nasty grinding noises. I'm hating Napa right now. The flex wheel teeth I could see looked undamaged, though I didn't pull the cover to look more broadly. The picture below shows my $350 6-month-old NAPA starter, and the shim which I reused.
Here are 2 tricks for newbies like me. First, jack the frame up high enough that the front passenger side wheel is bearing no weight. That gives you enough space between the front axle and the frame that you can remove and install the starter. You'll need at least a 24" jack stand. All normal safety rules apply, regarding working under a car that's jacked up.
Second, the manual says to remove the bracket and disconnect the wires. Don't. If you do it that way you'll never see the wires without mirrors or an inspection camera. I loosened the bracket bolts, but left them in place. I then removed the starter bolts and slid the starter forward enough that I could see and disconnect the wires. The loosened bracket supported the starter while I worked on the wires. Then I unbolted the starter from the bracket and carefully lowered it. Installation was the same thing in reverse.
I still seem to have a fuel issue. As a test, I temporarily installed a 10PSI Webasto electric fuel pump between the filter and the IP. The pump runs happily enough, but the engine still doesn't fire. The starter cranks beautifully, though. I saw no leaks under the truck, after running the pump for a while.
Questions for the wizards: Should I be able to hear fuel returning to the tank? I was hoping to hear a trickle, but maybe the outlet is low in the tank? My tank is half full... Also, what are the lines in the pictures below? They seem to run to the fuel tank, and one is insulated. ???
I ran out of daylight. Tomorrow I'll try looking at the fuel system more closely. With the electric pump in place, at least I won't be burning up my new starter trying to debug my fuel system. Maybe I'll reverse the direction of the pump and look for leaks that way.
cucvrus
Well-known member
The starter nose looks cracked in the picture. Down at 7 o'clock. Why the shim?
I do not think you will here fuel returning. The fuel returns visa the return lines on the delivery nozzles. That fuel is the excess fuel that has been pushed my the pressure popping of the delivery nozzles. That's as easy as I can explain it.
What is all the oil leaking from on the underside of the truck?
Have you considered changing the injection pump?
Please report back. I will try and help if I can.
I do not think you will here fuel returning. The fuel returns visa the return lines on the delivery nozzles. That fuel is the excess fuel that has been pushed my the pressure popping of the delivery nozzles. That's as easy as I can explain it.
What is all the oil leaking from on the underside of the truck?
Have you considered changing the injection pump?
Please report back. I will try and help if I can.
The shim was there on the old starter. I re-used it. I'll need to pull the cover and measure to see if it's really required, but the starter works great.
We undercoated the truck before moving it north to New England winters. Perhaps that's the oil leak you mention? New IP is certainly a possibility. This is the original, with 20K miles on it.
We undercoated the truck before moving it north to New England winters. Perhaps that's the oil leak you mention? New IP is certainly a possibility. This is the original, with 20K miles on it.
Volvo740turbo
New member
Is the glow plug relay working? You can test it by slave jumping it....even with low vacuum to the lines I'm sure wit would at least try to sputter or something....you can run a jumper from the 12v side of the battery to the lower terminal in the relay to heat the plugs....it will either work or it won't I guess
I have 12V at the pink wire when the ignition is in "run".
Yes, I see the usual voltage drop when the glow plug controller turns on the glow plugs. When I had a GP Controller failure, I could still start without glow plugs. It took extra cranking, especially if it was cold, but it reliably started. Now it cranks happily, but I get no hint of ignition.
2 things. With the key in the run position, remove and replace that pink wire on the IP. You should hear an audible click from the shut off solenoid. The 2 odd lines that are insulated are refrigerant lines for the A/C.
Yes, I heard the IP solenoid clunk when I removed and replaced the pink wire while confirming it had 12V in the "run" position.
Volvo740turbo
New member
No. I wasn't sure what to do next, so I put the electric pump between the manual pump and the filter. When disconnected from the filter, That electric pump outputs half a gallon per minute. I think that means my sock's OK, right? I would think that 0.5 GPM into the filter at 10PSI would be enough to get the engine started, right?
Volvo740turbo
New member
I have 0.5GPM @ 10PSI fuel delivery to the filter from the electric pump, plus whatever the mechanical pump adds to that. It's a new filter with ~7 miles on it. The engine cranks vigorously but does not start. The injectors are ~2 yrs old, Bosch, with 18K miles on them. The IP has 12V on the pink wire. The IP is original with 20K miles on it. The GP Controller is new and signals normally. The battery voltage drops as usual for GP activation, plus it's warm enough to start without glowplugs, as I've done in the past when my GP controller was out.
Rick suggests it's time for a new IP, and probably a new fuel pump while we're at it. Are there any other diagnostic tests I can do at this point to help isolate my problem? Is it worth pulling injectors?
Thanks,
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