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You mentioned that you just fueled up and were wondering if the ip or injectors were the problem. Could you have pumped in some bad fuel?

I wish you a speedy recovery, Wildchild. Looking forward to the rally.

I agree with overkill that you should check the rear mount of the left front spring. The bushings in there seem to wear out pretty readily. Check the spring bushing and it's mount. The mount moves with the motion and suspension travel of the vehicle, which is what you seem to have described.

When my M1009 did the key click and didn't start, it turned out to be that the big wire on the starter needed to be removed and the connection cleaned. Hope that helps.

Deep condolences to his family.

I agree. Loose connection at the starter or starter going bad.

I was just looking at the photos you provided. Basically put the RTV in the vicinity of the new seal as depicted in your second photo, on that side of the motor and main cap. The RTV should cover the ends of the new seal, creating a silicone membrane between the two new halves. It is critical...

I purchased a used driveshaft from the junkyard for the M1008 I sold. I couldn't find one that matched up by a specific model, so I went with the yard worker to a large pile of driveshafts. We picked one that matched the length and 32 spline yoke. I replaced both u-joints and had many miles of...

I'm not sure if the anaerobic sealing compound is thread locker, but I would refer to the Fel-Pro instructions. I replaced the rear main seal in my M1009 using the instructions provided by Fel-Pro and have no leaks. The RTV sealer goes in the two corners (one on either side of the crankshaft)...

I believe they are 5/16-18 standard thread.

It should be a front crankshaft seal or possibly a crankshaft timing cover seal. The parts counter person should be able to show you a picture of the seal so you can make sure you are both talking about the same one. If possible, remove the old one and bring it with you. That seal should be...

In New York, my M1009 registered and insured with no problem, as a Chevy Blazer. The M1008A1 I used to have was also no problem as a K30 pickup truck.

Is the spring missing that pushes the pieces apart to unlock the hub? Have you tried taking apart the other side to see what is different? You don't need a lift to take the hub apart, it can be disassembled with the vehicle on the ground.

I went to the junkyard to replace the front yoke of the rear driveshaft on my M1009. I purchased a used 32 spline yoke (it came with a used driveshaft from a 98 Tahoe) for $75. I added a new u-joint for the yoke and never looked back. Unfortunately the used driveshaft is the wrong length, so I...

Just removed the horn button the other day trying to figure out why the horn wasn't working on my M1009. They are T-20 size.

GM vehicles from the mid 1980's frequently used a mixture of standard and metric bolts in their construction.

The wipers are slow on my M1009 and really annoying. I can't wait to try disconnecting that three wire gadget. Thanks for the info.

I believe that bolt is for the bottom bracket of the driver's side alternator. There are two of them. Maybe they were misplaced during some US Army swap of good parts for other good parts.

Mine were also 5/16-18.

Ditto on the ground issue. Check the ground straps from engine to frame and frame to body. Broken ground straps wreak havoc on electrical systems, making them act strangely and the problems will occur inconsistently. I recently had an inoperative fuel gauge and discovered that the electrical...