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A diesel can be converted to use the "fogging" system I described halfway easily, but the engine would still need to retain all the original parts like the diesel fuel tank and injectors. Obviously the spark ignited gaseous fuel engines are just that... gaseous fuel only. And of course the...
Probably a system that mixes fuel gas (propane or CNG) into the air going into the diesel engine. Injected diesel fuel then ignites the gas and they burn together. I'm pretty sure a stock 701A is not designed to do this.
Doesn't the 803A have four output lugs like the 003A? On the 003A there's L0, which is neutral, then L1, L2, and L3, which are the three phases when in 3-phase mode.
Must not be too old, since that's a modified square wave too. It's the old ones with big heavy transformers in them and TO-3 transistors bolted to the outside that were real square wave inverters. They work OK too, but not so great for induction motors.
The only thing I can think of that...
Nice scope traces, thanks. I always thought that "modified sinewave" was a very optimistic term for that type of inverter. They're still better than the old square wave ones though.
Is your Briggs and Stratton unit a straight motor-generator type, or is it an inverter type?
It might be worth asking if they can help you with that price a bit. I once bought a propane fork lift starting battery, and just for asking, I got the "net" price that took it from something like $120 to $80.
I can't help directly, but while it still stinks, smell the various compartments and the generator itself, one at a time, and see if you can determine which one smells worst. Then use a flashlight to try to locate compent(s) that look like they overheated. Doing this immediately after the...
That sounds like normal charging. The more the battery is discharged, the longer you'll see high numbers like 5.2 amps or more. Once it's fully charged, you'll see only the current it takes to run the fuel pumps and other 24v control system parts.
Right after starting, the current will be about as high as it can get. As the battery charges and gets close to the regulator output voltage, the current will taper off until it reaches the level that the control circuit, fuel pumps (etc.) use. If you start the engine with the charging fuse...
Definitely use a good support and another backup support to be sure. I got myself trapped in one of my fork lift cylinders a few years ago, when its support slipped. My index fingers and thumbs of both hands were caught, but luckily my father and wife were home and freed me. A few stitches...
It's a good article, but the advice it gives about regulators is not correct, as it applies to the MEP-002A and MEP-003A. In these generators, running the engine below operating speed lowers the generator output, and the regulator sees this and tries to raise it by lowering its output current...
Yes, he could certainly do it that way. I check mine by taking out the fuse and putting the meter leads on the two solder tabs on the fuse holder, so no tools are required if the fan shroud is off. And if it's on, you can get at the current from the fuse cap side easily enough.
In post #18 I pretty much explained how to measure the current. You configure the meter for reading current (amps), break the charging circuit somewhere, and reconnect it with the ammeter leads. Then when you have your answer, you put things back the way they were. You'll probably need to...