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Yes, there are many ways to adapt gauges. My son printed me an adapter for my replacement hour meter.

In the aux tank setting, all three pumps are powered. A solenoid controls flow from the 3rd aux tank pump to the built-in tank, so it deadheads when fuel is not needed. The design of the pumps is such that pumping against a closed valve doesn't hurt anything, and the pump just clicks slowly.

I can't imagine how that could cause a problem, since they're all made to run on 24VDC.

The two main pumps are redundant. If one is running correctly, the other one should pass the fuel and the engine should run. That's why there are two in series, so if one fails, the generator keeps running. I believe some pumps won't pass fuel if they're not running. Maybe someone replaced...

Unfortunately, when you let just anyone mess with fueling, you get engine performance breakthroughs like "rolling coal".

Well, usually it's not a problem to return an item bought from or through Amazon.

Best post them somewhere like YouTube and put a link to them here.

It sounds like your injector pump may have been timed incorrectly, or something was wrong with the injectors themselves. It's definitely not normal to have to adjust the speed cable to get an 002A to start.

Is there any chance that commercial power had returned and your generator was connected to it?

Have you done a compression test?

You're running the glow plugs 20-60 seconds before you try to start it, right?

Guyfang, If you ever feel like doing some independent testing, I'll be glad to repair or replace your regulator free, if the testing causes a problem with it.

No, running under speed with an 003A or 002A will not hurt the regulator. I installed a regulator output current meter in the front panel of my 003A and watched the current at different engine speeds, with and without loads. The regulator works hardest at engine speeds higher than 1800 rpm...

You won't hurt an 003A by running the engine slowly. Maybe other generators, but not the 002A or 003A. Getting Jim C.'s kit is a good idea, as is the Kill-A-Watt meter. I use mine like Chainbraker does. You can check your frequency meter if you have an old 120v analog clock. At 60 Hz, it...

I was actually responding to 87Nassaublue's post, in which he said he doesn't like the auto-ranging and resulting slow response of the Fluke 87.

The Fluke 87 has a range button that will lock the range to whatever one you want. It also has a fast-response bar graph for indicating rapid changes that you might not be able to read on the digital display.

Like cuad4u, I use group 24 batteries. Mine are Walmart "Everstart Maxx", which is what was cheap when I needed them. Since it's a 24v system, it's not as demanding on batteries as you might think. Mine have been in service for about four years, and haven't shown any problems. I do...

I feel the same way, but I'm a dinosaur too. The world is progressing toward operators of equipment not needing to know anything about how the equipment works. Modern cars are a good example. This makes it easy to find an operator, since he doesn't need any significant training, but it also...

I think you need a new cam and lifters, or a used matching set as you suggested. That one will fail and put a bunch of iron filings in the engine as it does. You probably know, but if you use the ones you have in the other engine, keep the lifters and cam lobes together, rather than mixing...

Great that it's running now! White vapor may indicate you didn't run the glow plugs long enough before cranking.