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Check Ouverson Engineering. They offer 6.73:1 and 4:90:1 gear sets. Another way to make the truck go faster is more overdrive gear. There is a guy on here, M-35tom that offers a .69 overdrive gear for the tranny. His build thread is at the bottom of the modifications page right now. Or...

I was remiss about not having the rear duals to use as a winch also when I singled mine out. But.......I had not used that feature anyway so. My truck drives and runs better on and off road singled out with the 395's so I'm not looking back. The only reason I have not converted to the HEMTT...

I bought, got for Christmas, JaTonka's setup for fuel and oil. It's good stuff. I hear good things about Westfolks stuff too. I don't think you can go wrong either way. IMHO the spin on commercially available filters promote more frequent filter changing. If we know we can get the filter...

When I was a kid I kept making yellow and white M-37's cause that's the color LEGO's I had the most of and that's what was in the driveway. I had a big file box full of the darn things. I would get an idea in the middle of the night and Mom and Dad remember the sound of me swishing the LEGO's...

I'm :deadhorse:.This thread really is not the place for this.

The axle shafts are made of Carbon Molybdenum steel, shot peened. I was incorrect about them being cast iron. They are cast steel. You are right about that. I will try and find where I read about them being a grey iron.

Thread: Re: [MV] Broken M37 Axle shaft Re: [MV] Broken M37 Axle shaft when I used to service trucks that were frequently off road, ie. garbage trucks, dump trucks, etc., we used to pull the axles and mill a relief cut into the shaft just inside the hub, that way if the axle broke, which was...

The differential itself is very strong, but the axle shafts are 16 spl and they have a 1.37" dia . The shafts are not big and they are made out of crappy material. You are only able to get 2 axle ratios, and one locker that is worth nothing (lock right). I made a prototype locker for my M37 ...

1998 dollars. I bought a complete running and driving straight sheet metal hardtop with winch truck for $2800 in Phoenix. The guy needed money and was motivated to sell. This one has become my keeper. At the time most of them setup this way were $4500. We found an ambulance, M-43, in Las Cruces...

WOW!!!!!! I don't know who peed in your Wheaties. First you wanna say your roasting the tires with 42's and now people can't 4 wheel when they are spinning a tire. Interesting. So then other than pilot error what would be breaking the axles on several different trucks over several different...

That's what I'm sayin'. It's not like I'm makin' it up about the axles. I love my M-37 and I would never sell it. I might even get burried in it. Who knows. But I bet when we get put in the ground it will have a broken rear longside axle. Oh yeah and I agree. The superwinch hubs break pretty...

So do you have pics and a price for the final kit? I can't remember if you already put that in the post. So if so my bad. If not I'm interested.

That's right. I remember seeing that thread where you brought Jessica home. She really was a runner. I thought most of the 400 Cummins BCII's were governed at 2200 RPM and therefore 55-58 MPH trucks. I don't know. I can't back that up. That's just what I heard.;)

Yep. Can haul a trailer. All the stuff is there. They also make cargo covers and troop seats for them.

Nice find. Especially in Europe. The white stuff around the tank filler is shellack. Wreckerman said that's what it was a while back. I don't think you can do much about it unless you drain the tanks and bust it off with an abrasive of some kind. Someone else may know how to chemically deal...

So if you run the budd cap inside the wheel against the hub and the lug nut outside the wheel the wheel surface does not contact the hub and therefore is subject to greater side loading around the stud holes promoting cracking of the wheel and possible stud breakage. GR and I were talking about...

I know some guys looking for the gasser motor that is in it. It does not look like it was a military truck. It looks completly civillian to me. So I don't know if the motor is the same or not but......And the steering looks interesting to me. I can't see if it's hydro assist or what. Some better...

I can't tell exactally but is this hydro steering on this old gasser 5 ton truck or just hydro assist? http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd97/russ70/Truck/IMG_20101004_133911.jpg

There have been some really good points on this thread, pro and con. The "new" full hydro systems are really becoming refined enough to feel good on the road. Self centering and feedback. I have been struggling with My "Log 2.0" steering because none of the geometry works with the current...

If you get a lot of adverse steering issues I would go with a full hydro system. They are good enough now to be self centering. About $1200. Or you could just lengthen the drag link. It handles droop pretty well......Or you could mount the draglink pivot on the bottom frame and lengthen the...