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Rory, your are correct if you go by the book!. But keeping in the true spirt of keeping the truck original (or like others I've seen) I bent the rules and did some same color on color.:-D

I used a font called "Phantom Stencil". That was the closest I could find

SLING, NO STEP, SLING AND TIE DOWN, TIE DOWN are a slightly less than 1" high letters, but I went with 1". I used the same for SLING GUIDE ---> and it came out a little big, so I ended up not using that stencil. My unit numbers were 1 5/8" high I used glossy black for TIE DOWN on the front...

Paint looks awesome!!

With the new larger bolts, I think the nut was 11/16" and the bold head was 5/8". They are right up against the rubber boot, so you can't get a socket on them. I had to use an open end wrench on the edge of them and ended up getting a pinhole in the boot :cry: I think the old hardware heads...

So it turns out that ball joint that I got was not for Basic, A1 or A2 because (according to the Parts TM) the geared hub knuckle is the same for all of them. It had a larger dia. taper and must have been for something newer. I got the correct ball joint and it went right in, aside from...

It will work, but it is not good practice, especially if you have any accessory wires that go direct to your batteries. The best place to put the disconnect is on the negative. Supposedly there is less of an arc while connecting under load. With the wireless remote type you have to put it on...

I didn't connect the "engine running" lead either. It's on my list of things to figure out. I am concerned that if you accidentally open the battery switch while the engine is running, the voltage could spike. I would think it could possibly fry the EESS or other things. I'm not sure of this...

I installed the remote switch with the fob. It's called "Battery Brain Gold Battery Brains". They make a 24V version. You can find it here $104 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sms-433126 It is a little cheesey, but I've had it a few months now and it works good. It saves the batteries and...

As for as the canvas, there is a recent thread from a place that still makes them here http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?162329-HMMWV-CAMO-Soft-Top-Cargo-Cover-Manuf-Interchangeability here is a link to the site http://www.bretonindustries.com/ You may get lucky and find a cheaper...

Lower ball joint part#? This is an old thread, but it appears to be the right place to post my lower ball joint woes on my 1993 M998. Looked up in the TM and found it is part number 6006645. Did a little shopping around and found one that listed that part# for $40 on fleabay. It's the newer...

That's what I used for my repair also. Worked good. I also lubed up the zippers with silicone grease to prevent it from happening again.

That would have been nice. By myself I was at about 1 1/2 hours, with help we did one in 1 hr. The ratchet strap just can't get it small enough, so I had to fight it. Like the monkey and football analogy. If I ever have to do it again, I'm getting the runflat compressor tool!!

Runflat **** aua 4 Not so fun to put in runflats. I hope I don't have to put any more of those in in my lifetime.

TM 9-2320-280-2 page 8-32 has instructions on how to do front and rear toe-in by yourself with a tape measure like the others mentioned.

Let's see that radio tray with lockable ammo can - Sounds pretty cool!

My EUC was approved 9/19. I received my title 11/25. I ordered it before my EUC was approved. The wait time was typically 1 month, but I heard the title process was taking a bit longer now for some reason.

Somehow I missed this post :-( Next year!

I've used those Rapco rattle cans for woodland camo and they match perfectly! I would love to go over the whole truck, but I'm not very good at keeping a tight line with the rattle can at the different colors like the pros do. The paint thread seems to favor the airless sprayer with the Depot...

In my opinion, why take the chance of more body injury from a side impact? I would think that area would crush a whole lot easier without those. It also gives some rigidity to the B pillar. I've seen some people chop up the B pillar also, which would certainly make it fail in a rollover...