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Sounds like the power solenoid in the PCBox is bad.

The buzzing you mentioned may be a solenoid inside the PCB not activating properly. The battery switch should always have +24V on terminal A/wire 81A and +12V on terminal C/wire 569. When the battery switch is in the ON position there should be +24V on terminal B/wire 459 and +12V on...

Welcome, I recomend a 5-ton.

You can disconnect the current brake pressure switch & jump the two wires together to determine if the switch is NG fyi. With the light switch in Ser. Drv. position the brake lights should come on when the wires are jumped.

The igntion switch does not need to be a high amp rating type. The start switch contacts send power to a solenoid that handles the starter amperage. A switch for a tractor or other utility vehicle should be fine even if it says 12V as long as it is rated for a few amps. Found the one below on...

An unusually high need for charging of the batteries will cause failure of components in the charging system.

I would have to say yes in a certain circumstance. A hypothetical example... Let's say some wire insulation has deteriorated to the point where when there is no movement there is a high resistance shorted connection. In this state a low discharge may occur. And let's say that when the vehicle...

Yes it should work with a jumper to the solenoid. You may have more than just a shorted wire problem. The switch could be defective, or the ground on the other side of the switch is not connected well etc.

As crazy as it sounds there is no fuse or circuit breaker for the brake lights specifically. There are only four or five circuit breakers for the entire vehicle! The wiring diagram is at back of field maint. manual part 5. There should also be a section in one of the field maint. manuals that...

I doubt it is your brake light switch as it connects to the main light switch, unless it was going bad before the shorting event. Have a look at the field maint. manuals in the link below for troubleshooting procedures...

I'm thinking you raise the round unloader cover up and insert something thin & rigid to hold the inner piece downward against the spring so that the cylindrical part disengages with the cover. Then the cover can slide off.

Here is a post where someone who knows, CSM Davis, confirms the unloader can be removed without pulling anything... http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?123224-M939-8-3-cta-compressor-failures-need-function-info&p=1537915&viewfull=1#post1537915

Here is a post that shows the unloader parts that stick... http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?141256-M939-Inconsistent-air-pressure&p=1735694&highlight=#post1735694

Should post in the 5-ton and up section listed below. That is where you will much good info as well. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/forumdisplay.php?43-5-ton-and-up

Intermission I happened across this, all I can say is whomever built it is a man after my own heart...

I don't think it's anything to be concerned about. You could try some light sandpaper on the test leads to clean off any oxidation buildup.

Actually I don't think there is anything wrong with your tester. Touch the test leads together and see what kind of difference the readings are. If they are more accurate then the variation you see may be a clue that there is a conductor/wire touching GND somewhere. This is typical when the...

Been there before. It's when more than one seemigly impossible sepetate problems occur that the head scratching really begins!

This is the comment that leads me to believe it may not be a shorted wire inside the column. Unless the short was taken away at the same time wire 25 was removed from the horn switch. Thorough investgation of the wire 25 insulation may reveal whether or not a short is occuring.

His mentioning that disconnecting wire 25 from the horn switch stops the horns from sounding is what leads me to believe the switch is providing GND when it shouldn't be.