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Rats I folded the tarp back up and put it away for the day. Now the weather is to wet and drippy. don't want to get it out and expose it to wet right now. I suppose I will wait and see if Ripcord01 want to trade or if he has money for shipping even. I have my blue AirForce M37 and then my 20...
I took pictures of my tarp today. I think it is a M1008 CUCV tarp. It is to tight on my M116 but not on my M101. I'd rather have the M101 tarp. The part number inside is 12255551. I am willing to trade for your M101 tarp (or M116 tarp as the case may be. Do you have pictures of the tarp? How do...
That is about 1 hour from us. I can't speak for anybody else but we have been happily married since 1979. She picked out the color for my M37 and since I have my aircraft A&P and IA I said why not be different and make it Air Force - it is actually to dark of a blue but most people don't know...
I am 45 minutes due south of Charlotte about 3 miles from the NC/SC bourder tucked in the corner. I am in no hurry if you are in no hurry if your wife gets down here again.
I will need to check but I have a chvi cover with the window in each end. I think it is green. Only problem is shipping back and forth to Nc would be a killer
I used the HF leg with the dual wheels as it digs into the ground less. Much easier to muscle the trailer around on soft ground. I had to add a piece of pipe to extend it about 4-5 inches to get enough crank room for uneven ground. I welded a plate on the A-frame and bolted the folding swivel...
Call Mr, Hinson (Andy) 291-6333 (area code is 704) and tell him that his friend down the road near JAARS with the AirForce M37 told you about his Water Buffalo. Last I knew he had it, also an International ambulance military version and lots of other neat stuff. He is not a member of Steel...
Yes it is a Pioneer Tool trailer meant to go behind an M37. I have one and the rubber hinges (flat conveyor belt strapping) was all rotted out. I decided to replace it with a full length stainless hinge from McMaster Carr. It was a lot of work but I would do it again as it solves the hinge issue...
You are right my M37 has the plate that mounts to the bed to keep it in place. I don't know about the M43. I find it hard to believe that the plate would come off without wrecking the tube. Mine look welded on.
Wowo how many parts trucks do you actually have in your yard?
Following this thread to see how you do. My current M37 rebuild is a "20 year project" since I have another M37 to drive when I want to. I also have a matching M101 trailer, Generator trailer, and Pioneer Tool trailer. No I just need to find any missing accesories.
I have a bed floor from MWM on my truck. It is perfect. I also got the bed pads from him as above. Also perfect. I bolted my halves together with hex head bolts and fibre lock nuts instead of the screws as I had to grind out all screws due to rust. I figured with hex heads I can always use...
I have been "lurking and watching" your build - wow you are really going to town on this one. I was able to use some of your wiring in "prime colors" to figure out my wiring harness as it was totally trashed. It helped me identify which ends of the harness were female or male - thank you.
Wow you have a lot of rust. Reminds me of the way I started on my current M37 "20 year rebuild project". I want to watch this rebuild and see how you are doing.
I am using silicone fluid in my system. No problems. Someone told me the stock brakes are fine if you adjust them regualrly (like every week) if you use it as a daily driver. I had a friend that did that but he like to tinker as much as drive. My personal vote is go 4 wheel disk
3dAngus - I had one for an M116 and I think it is for an M116A2 or A2. It has the cut out for the wheel well but hangs down a bit to far. I think the A2 or A3 has a slightly wider bed so I guess it would fit an A2 or A3 perfect. I have an M116A1. It looks OK but not exactly like in the manual...
On aircraft we use a Dupont acid etch and alodine treatment. I think the numbers are 225S and 226S. If your dataplate is aluminum (not brass) you might try the acid etch if the corrosion is not heavy. Let the etch sit and then rub with acotton cloth. Don't let the etch dry. See if that will...