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I think it is valve related as it makes a very loud tick out of only the drivers side of the intake with the air filter out

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They smoke white whens its cold as they aren't burning 100% of the fuel till the engine warms up. As long as it goes away once the motor warms up then its completely normal.

My truck sat for about 4 months without being driven while I was away. When I went to start it up again I thought it would be a good idea to lube up the top end of the motor before starting it so I disconnected the cutoff wire from the IP and cranked it over for about 10 seconds without it...

Had some help this morning and was able to confirm the bendix is the issue. Starter gear moves out and engages flexplate, but starter spins independently of the gear. Pulled it and dropped it off at the local rebuilder who said he would try to have it done tomorrow afternoon. I would do it...

Replaced my flex plate about 2 years ago when the tranny was done as there was a few teeth that were messed up from having the starter relay stick. Since then it has always started with no grinding or problems of any kind. Today I went to start it up as usual and it just spun like the starter...

Hmmmm, didnt know they were torque to yield bolts. Just had mine out and back in to access something behind the starter.

Why are you supposed to replace the starter bolts?

In az mine scans as a diesel.

About to go to the parts store to change my motor and transmission mounts since they are super sagged and want to change the freeze plug under the drivers side motor mount as it is weeping a little. I didn't see in the TM what size it is or the best way to install it. What to people use for...

I'm talking about the valve under the front crossmember that can set the brake warning light on. Is that one out of production?

So mine started leaking from where the rear brake line connects to it. I took it apart to clean it and hopefully get it to seal up so I wouldn't keep getting air in my rear brakes. Long story short I pinched the seal inside and it got tore apart when I put it back together. Where can I get a new...

The m1009 is not over 3/4 ton so you shouldn't have a problem, but if they give you a hard time tell them it's a 1/2 ton blazer and they probably won't know the difference.

Eliminating the check valve is a short-term fix for a failing injection pump. If yours in missing then that alone wont cause a problem.

Nice, I want to make a set like that for mine before my rocker-panels get any worse.

The PO of my cucv put one on there and soon discovered 35" tires tend to crack the body where the carrier bolts on :(

Oh, Not sure exactly as mine is in a dodge, but my friend has one in a grand chrokee and I think instead of having the computer to do the torque converter lockup and OD shift he has it on switches. So he shifts 1-3 (manual valvebody) then he flips a switch and it goes into OD and then he flips...

Somehow im just reading this...Anyway thanks a bunch I had been looking for an "official" answer for a while and couldn't ever find any specs. I heard everything from never above 190 to 215 will crack the heads to 230 is where the idiot light comes on so thats overheating. I kinda figured it was...

Sounds like mine, your high idle seems high. Mine idles around 850 rpm at high idle and 750 at low idle. Yours sounds more like 1000rpm.

I think you need to do some valve body work as well to get it to lock in 2nd not sure about 1st.