Search results

Hmmm, could be some of the cylinders take a few seconds to start firing completely. Maybe check the glowplugs. I'm pretty sure mine does the same exact thing on a cold start.

Could just be the timing being different when it is in high idle. Mine is extremely loud when its cold out and clacks more.

Are you getting any smoke? If so what color? If you pull the black rubber return line off the front of the injector pump you can see if there is a good trickle of fuel from it when it is running.

I did it after mine stuck. Managed to pull the relay before taking too many teeth off the flywheel :|

Hmmm, a little blow-by (some white smoke from oil fill) is normal. From watching your video it is hard to say what is wrong. I would pull the return line on the injection pump and see if you are getting good flow. Also if you have access to a fuel pressure gauge that can tell you if there is a...

You do a D44 and 14 bolt combo? If so you did the same axles and tires as me when I did mine...nice! Original poster: You could also try and find a Dana 44 off local craigslist or some other site and install that. It will bolt right in and you can even use the same calipers and not have to...

Not sure what the problem with the transfer-case is. Is the linkage out of adjustment? Also could be the shifter forks are worn. Also it is possible to remove the back cover of the transfer-case without disconnecting it from the transmission. You just need to be careful to make sure the bearings...

This one?

Is there supposed to be some sort of valve that shuts flow off through the heater core when the control is on cold? I seems like a lot of water bypassing the radiator that could be cooled. I tested it yesterday and when it is 112* outside the truck ran at 205 with heater off and 195-200 with it on.

I have a kenwood TMV 71A in my truck.

I just changed mine out. The rubber ring was cracking and squishing out between the two masses. What causes the key to sheer? I would hate to have that happen to me.

Just checked everything else. Between ground post and positive post on gen 2 getting 12.5V running. There is continuity between 24V block and positive terminal on alt and 12V block and ground side of alt. I guess all this means internal problem with alternator and I need to take it out for...

I will check those when I get home. I checked voltage on the positive post of the alt grounded to chassis and it was 26.4v. Should it be making power between the ground terminal and positive terminal of the alt with the exciter having power and a fuseable like broken. Just so I can measure that...

Swapped gen 1 and gen 2 lights, gen 1 still works, gen 2 still off

For the last 2 years my m1009's Gen 2 light as flickered on and off while driving. Recently the light has stopped working altogether. It does not come on with the gen 1 light when the ignition is on. I checked the two relays under the dash and they both are switching and I swapped the one for...

Hey, It's Miles from over on TOR. You got a CUCV? Nice! Im back in town if you want to look at my lift. I think it is a rancho lift, but it was already on when I got my truck. Shoot me a PM here or on TOR if you want to meetup. --Miles

Does anyone have issues with their temp gauges in the heat? I cant believe that it isn't effected by the 200* air in the engine bay and running 6" from the exhaust manifolds. Just trying to decide if I want to pay up for an electric one vs a mechanical one.

I fuel is stock setting. Didn't flush the block, but I did run a hose through the block till it ran clear and used a radiator flush kit from twice because the first time it didn't cleanup all the way. I tried a 180 stat and it didn't change so I went back to the 190.

Yes running 50/50.

Runs around the 190* thermostat when temps are below about 90*. For temps between 90-105* it will run about 195-200* in traffic or at lights, about 200-205 down the highway, and as high as 210* on long hills. Has a new water pump, thermostat, fan clutch, and radiator was fixed and cleaned about...