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That is a lot of fuel coming out. Did you check the return lines for splits? Hard to tell but you might need to put the fuel injector clips on the ends as well.

The one NAPA sells, about 25 bucks with my discount. This of course could seal the deal with me doing a complete conversion to an electric lift pump next to the tank if it is the problem. 30years for the first pump...30weeks for the second.

Too bad you won't be in North Carolina any time soon. I have a complete 6.5l turbo and motor from a 1993 pickup and I want to do the same thing. Not that I am scared of doing my own work...but knowledge and help are invaluable tools. Not only subscribing...reading in detail to prep for the after...

Even though it was put on last year and I have about 5K miles on it? I figured the mechanical ones wear the most bullet proof until they got age on them and the diaphragm started to wear out.

So if air does not bubble in the tank, sock is plugged. If it does bubble, it is another issue?

Turn the key to the on position, run a hot wire from the battery down to your starter. Once you hit the positive pole on the starter it is going to engage the solenoid and try to start. Just be prepared to pull the cable off when it starts and REALLY avoid touching the frame by accident. I would...

Let me chronicle my problem, (a bit long but helps explain the issue) what I have already replaced and what I am working on. To start with I have a matched set of 1984 blazers...one is a military version (jerk previous owner painted it and tore it up) and one is a fully loaded civilian model...

Just out of curiosity have you tried jumping power directly from your battery to the starter to ensure that your hot wires are working? I have had to use a jumper cable on the trail to go from battery to starter terminal...but it works in a pinch.