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To test for voltage, should I just stick one lead on the connector and the other to the block or other suitable ground? Or is there some other way that I should be checking them? My understanding was that the cold advance made it easier to start, ah well... Now I have to dig out the...

I hear a "clunk" when it goes off, and I did at one point measure voltage going out. I'm considering the manual glow plug install just to eliminate that as a failure point, so that I don't think that they're working, I *know* that they're working. Then I'll go back to blaming the cold advance...

Cranks and cranks, with white smoke (unburned fuel) at first startup. Colder makes it more difficult. When the truck is warmed up, it starts right up. I replaced the glow plugs (some were swollen, some were still working) with Wellmans yesterday and I still have the problem. The glow plug relay...

Oh. In that case, the engine was already pretty hot (I'd been off road for a good hour and a half, and it'd been running for at least an hour straight before that) so it didn't need much cranking to get it to fire, just a couple of revolutions and vroooom. Now I just have to figure out the...

Nah, I actually didn't get burned at all. Jammed the safety pin into the wire, took a wire with two alligator clips on the ends, clipped one end to a hot 12v stud under the hood, turned the key on, and then touched the other end of the wire to the safety pin. I was ready for a decent shock, but...

RE: So what Ah. Well, that would explain why it was cranking slower than normal when I was jumping 12v to the purple wire, it wanted 24v- I thought that it was just due to the safety pin being a poor conductor and/or not having great contact. I still think it's a silly arrangement though ;) and...

RE: So what I thought the solenoid just got 12v though? And that's what switches on the 24v to the starter? I could be confused (often am), but it would seem that this is simply 12v in from the key, 12v out to the solenoid.

RE: So what Thanks for the information. The AC40 relay crossed to something at Pep Boys (closest auto parts store) and it worked. Truck now cranks fine. I'm still considering going to a manual switch to eliminate the relay, I can't imagine why anyone would want a relay between the ignition...

RE: So what Ok, so can somebody at least tell me which wire(s) are "hot" under the dash so that I can rig my own switch for the starter? I know I need to send power to the purplish wire via a momentary on switch, but I'd rather not run a new wire through the firewall if I can avoid it. Can...

What, exactly, gets energized, in each position? I ask because my starter is not getting power when I turn the key to the "START" position. I was able to start the truck using a safety pin to jam into the purplish wire to the solenoid and manually applying 12v to the safety pin. Obviously this...

Ok, thanks for clearing up the starting amperage thing. I'm not *too* worried about it since the big marine batteries in there should do the trick. That said, I get the concept of an isolated accessory system, that's how old Winnebagos do it so you don't have to worry about running down the...

Right, the system is currently in series, making it 24v, I'm wondering if I can just run it in parallel, maintaining the total output of 2400 watts by making it (12v)x(100amps)x(2) rather than (24v)x(100amps). I thought voltage had more impact on the rotational speed of a DC motor (like the...

Been reading up on doing a 12v conversion. Found this article: http://www.roscommonequipmentcenter.com/news_notes/nn10.pdf I have a few questions: First, I'm having trouble understanding why I can't simply run the batteries and alternators in parallel rather than in series, thus retaining the...

At this point I'm half tempted to run the heavy gauge wire, since much of my engine bay must be rewired tomorrow due to an engine fire. But I'll plan on keeping the relay, thanks.

I find this whole situation disconcerting and ridiculous. Best of luck. Edit: What I find most ridiculous is that it doesn't jive with the whole "no ex post facto law" concept in the federal and most state constitutions (no idea specifically about Wisconsin). I could understand a regulation...

I'm thinking about doing something similar. I don't really care, however, about returning to the stock configuration, the vehicle is a work vehicle and I really don't mind modifying it to better suit my needs. That said, the main purpose of my doing this is to eliminate failure points (or...

I had my eye on that one, alas, I already own one, and there's no way I could justify two.

Ok, I found the fast idle relay- AutoZone P/N MR82 for $12, but I can't find a "cold advance" switch listed anywhere. The real question is whether I can just fake these with manual switches.

Ok, that means that I can be reasonably well assured it's a fuel problem. Since the lift pump is new, and the injection pump seems in good order, the fast idle and cold start advance switches seem to be where to look. Now I just gotta find 'em. ;) Thanks.

RE: Re: Blazer Problems Thanks for the info, I'm going to be pulling up the shop manual and looking it up. Does anyone know whether the glows stay on for a time after starting? If they do, then they're still somewhat suspect, if they don't, then I can be reasonably well assured it's a fuel...