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Hello fellow Spring resident :naner: As TGP said the grey is the standard factory paint to match color for the replacement pads

In my person my dash looks exactly like yours even with the in correct color, I know cameras change it a lot vs seeing it in person. I have compared mine to an original and unless we are going to the concours d'elegance car show no one can really tell the difference

basically balanced and blueprinted? I wonder what that would cost?

Here's a few pics. The color seems lighter in the pics due to my camera flash than what it appears to the naked eye. The last pic is a better representation of it

It does seem kind of gimmicky. Nothing wrong with the standard plug and washer especially if you can figure out the technique. I don't get a oil bath with them

It does seem more like a coating than a thin paint in that it has some give and flex to it which should allow it to hold up on seats. I would think proper prep would be key for it to work well on a high wear area such as a seat

I have the exact same symptoms on mine. I removed my resistor because it was smoking and I don't think it was from crap being stuck on it. After I removed it My WTS light only flashes once when I turn the key forward, Voltmeter drops down and I hear no click from my relay. My truck still starts...

Same here. I have been getting it from O'reily for about $13 a can but the others may have it or can get it also to save from ordering it online and paying the hazmat shipping. It took a whole can for the 3 coats I did on the dash.

So far so good. I cleaned and scrubbed the dash real good with some 91% isopropyl alcohol as it had some spots on it and applied 3 good coats of SEM. I have to admit though my truck is garage kept so it doesn't get the harsh sun daily we have here.

SEM Color Coat burgundy vinyl 15063 is what I used when I replaced my rotted dash. im also using it to redo my faded and worn door panels. It appears to be an exact match

For anyone who has replaced your front rotors and rear drums did you replace the wheel studs when reattaching your hubs or is this overkill?

What size is it for the rear? Im fixing to tear my 1028 down front and rear. I found the lisle hub nut socket for the front but haven't seen one for the rear

If you want to do it right the first time go buy a modern F450 or F550 that will actually support that weight and be able to stop it.

cucv's do NOT bring more than or the same as a comparable civvy version that I've seen. A butchered one will bring even less. Ditto on what cucvrus said about the mileage. Guaranteed your speedo or cluster has been replaced in the past

truck is looking good and no doubt will be more useful with the bed. The box that came off it may make a decent storage box. I think someone on here uses the 1010 ambulance box for storing his lawn equipment

Care to enlighten me?, I don't have cable :whistle:

Yep only way to do it now. Get the OTC socket to remove the nozzle,it's around $50 bucks

I'm going to spring for one of those controller cards as well soon. After my resistor bypass I no longer hear the gp solenoid click and my WTS light just flashes once very quickly although I do see my volt gauge drop a bit and the truck fires right up even if I only leave the key in the forward...

Very cool [thumbzup] looks like you got the springs changed out? it looks like it sits proud in the front again

check out these part numbers on rock auto. Are these what your needing? MEVOTECH GES2027L Pitman Arm To Left Steering Arm - At Pitman Arm , MEVOTECH GES2026R Pitman Arm To Left Steering Arm - At Steering Arm