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Did you check to see if you are getting voltage at the glow plugs? If you are still running them with the original resistor then you may have had a cascade failure. If you have voltage a fresh set and the 12V conversion may be in order. If not follow the wiring as I had mine short out on a valve...
When you say you have fuel at the injectors is it enough fuel? A trickle is not enough. Does the IP Solenoid Click? Check the wiring around the back of the engine and make sure it did not ground to a valve cover like mine did. You can pull the hose off of the filter going to the IP and make sure...
Im not trying to argue but Duval County has been purchasing used cooking oil and refining it to mix with diesel to run in their city buses and vehicles. They are calling it B20 Biodiesel. Which is a 20% blend. I concede to those more knowledgeable than myself but all I know is what I read. I am...
Well the guy I got it from "said" it was from an 86 CUCV and it looks new. The only difference on the block is the lower drain valve is on the side (looked like an upgrade to me) instead of on the bottom and the mounting bracket has the same bolt pattern just less metal. If it is Civy that would...
Trailer it don't drive it as the condition of the axles, brakes, and trans are unknown. Also you will need to do the Dog head mod, 12V glow plug mod, and bring it current on PM. Good luck and welcome.
Further developments have surfaced. I do not know how I missed this during tear down but the wires to the heating element on the fuel filter block were cooked. No insulation left. Not just that but the others were in bad shape as well. I moved the harness closest to the valve cover and to my...
Well the rotor failed and locked the pump thus snapping the shaft. Diesel logic (L&J) attributed it to a clog and told me they could smell the oil in the fuel. They dismantled it and compared it to a stanadyne book showing pictures of failures. I was only running less than 20% clean but expired...
That was a deal. I did not have to pay a core charge as mine was trash. ( a friend deal) Check out the core policy on the ones being sold on _Bay. WMO has fine metal particulates that probably are not being filtered out that is currently eating at the interior of your IP.
Build what you will...
Pat the rotor failed and locked the pump thus snapping the shaft. Diesel logic attributed it to a clog and told me they could smell the oil in the fuel. They dismantled it and compared it to a stanadyne book showing pictures of failures. I was only running less than 20% clean but expired veg oil...
That's because there was a finite number of them and they are about gone.
Your budget should be 4K plus reconditioning. If 2K is all you have I hate to say this but an 09 is not for you. Don't get me wrong I love mine and totally have OD fever however these are not for someone on a low budget...
DB2's like nothing but diesel and lube additive. Tried Clean B20 and it went POP. $425.00 rebuild (the rotor siezed and broke the shaft) plus gaskets and aggravation later...........
The 33's will go on the stock rim no problem but you may need to double check clearance. I know 32's fit perfect as I had a set on mine when I got it and they fit fine.
A rebuild is the answer mine is currently @ L&J Diesel being rebuilt. Mine shows 26K however could be 126K or 226K. When a speedo acted up the gov just replaced it with a 0 mile speedo so it can be tough to say how many miles it may have on it but that is really not the issue as the age is. A...
If you do remove it you will need to purchase 2 new main starter bolts as they are torque to yield. If you use the old bolts you risk loosing one going down the road.
Just my 2cents
Since it was converted to 12V you are kinda on your own here as we have no idea how it was converted and the TM's are specific to the 24V system. You could have a bad starter, solenoid, wiring, alternator not charging, batteries since you said they were showing only 9V, ign switch in the column...
I just wanted to update this. I was not able to get the spare engine as someone beat me to it. I finally had time and the availability of funds to tear it down after diagnosis concluded it was the IP. It wasn't difficult to remove just aggravating and time consuming. I will take some pics of it...
Have fun and take it slow. Read the TM's and do the Doghead Mod before you attempt a start. The correct bolts and bracketry especially on the starter can be critical, check flywheel for trueness, and make sure the engine turns over at least with a breaker bar. Looks like you have gotten the CUCV...
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