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I see someone else likes the third gen as well, I've been hunting for just the right one for some time. I fixed a rattle on my 1009 (power steering pump bolt came loose, who'd have guessed?) and then installed my new cigarette lighter assembly. Since it fits now it's time to wire it up.

What size is that fire extinguisher, is it some sort of standard? I can't seem to get any of mine to mount there.

Their regular rebuilt 6.2 injectors are only $130, that seems awful low if they're using new German Bosch nozzles.

Nutcracker?

That might be one of the most interesting mods I've ever heard of. Really wish I had kept some more parts from my totaled Sonoma now... Extra props for mentioning Rainex fluid, that stuff is worth its weight in gold.

I was more talking about the universal joints than the drive shaft. And I did bust the stock shaft, which is why I'm in the market for a new one. More specifically, I think the u-joint failing broke the knuckle on the end of the drive shaft, or the other way around, not sure which.

Yeah I was just going to buy the whole assembly to get in and out, and if the yoke is wrong, oh well I've still got mine and it didn't seem to be damaged from the u-joint detonation. Probably just get new u-joints though while I'm at it. Anything heavier duty than the stock ones that should...

Aside from the TH400 at least. I wasn't sure if the different length of the TH400 vs the 700R4 or TH350 or whatever comes in the K5 would make a difference in the driveshaft length, or if the K5s also had a NP208 with the same output shaft, all the way through '91 especially. I'm going to take...

I read a thread that mentioned that civilian blazers do use the same drive shaft, but it wasn't elaborated on. Just wanted to know if someone has gone to a junk yard and pulled a K5 rear driveshaft assembly and dropped it right in before, and if so, what years should have the same driveshaft...

Took the Blazer to an offroad park near Salem, MO (not trailered, just drove it down). Wanted to watch the big rock crawling rigs tackle some obstacles at an overnight event. Decided to try some of the easier trails, and they weren't that easy for a full size. Broke my rear drive shaft, had...

I think I've got the newer cables, where the small 12v wire comes off the front positive instead of the rear negative. Or whichever way meant they've been replaced at least once. Still, no way to tell how long ago that was, but I imagine they're less than 15 years old at least. Terminals are...

For reference, I ended up taking the battery to Autozone and they confirmed it had a dead cell. So no need for an alternator rebuild (yet). I thought 40 ohms was a low resistance for idle drain, but the other alternator also had 40 ohms across it, so it looks like that's not really the problem...

Here's the center console pic. And has a vehicle ever looked more at home? Edit: That's a new Safelite windshield too, with the antenna wire in case I want to wire up a stock-ish radio later. Don't let your friends go without a seatbelt when you're off road. Skulls and windshields don't...

Installed a used grey factory center console in the stock location, now I have cup holders. :) Replaced the lock knob my friend broke for me the other day, and found out the reason it probably broke was because it was unscrewed halfway. I thought the passenger side one was supposed to be...

Does you old one need a new home?

The FR series pumps are still on their website, I think it was the 2000 and 6000 series that they replaced. And I think their output is adjustable to match the lift pump. I mostly want it to simplify other fuel system operations like bleeding and draining, and if I get one at all I want one...

Where is the FRB-5 cheaper? I can't find it for anything less than $130 shipped. And aside from passing a stricter salt spray test, what makes the -22 better than the -5? On this page Auto Performance Engineering - Walbro fuel pumps and more the -22 is actually cheaper for some reason, but...

Random info like this right here is why I love this site so much.

Replaced the shot vacuum valve with a new one from eBay, now $150 in the transmission finally shifts correctly. Pump and valve were both shot, I may change the modulator too since that's only $8, but it's never shifted so well the entire time I've had it.

That might not be entirely fair, it _is_ a registered trademark of AM General, albeit not in all caps. But then, their description below is also in all caps, that might be reason enough to be worried :P