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Sense your invested $$$$ at this point I'd pull all the glow plugs and do a compression check before jumping to conclusions. That will tell you everything you need to know.2cents

Well I'd start by load testing both batteries, or simply replacing them. Then I'd drain the fuel, change the fuel filter, before trying to start it. Maybe pull the glow plugs, unplug the pink wire, and turn the motor over to make sure the cylinders are clear, and to try and flush any old...

I've got a suggestion, Have you checked the shift linkage?

No offence, but these all look like they'd be insanely stiff :gimp:!

Well finally got around to testing the #2 alternator, and it tested bad. So I ordered a new one off Ebay and installed it yesterday. The volt meter now reads just past center, so definitely an improvement. However the GEN2 light doesn't illuminate when I turn the key on before starting?

Well I'm not an expert on the Blazer platform, but sense the rails are shorter and capable of holding that heavy fiberglass top. I would imagine they're at least AS strong as the pickup. If you buy a rack built specifically for the Blazer I'm sure it'll be fine.

We could use ones off a fire truck, just have to change the neck.....http://firetruckparts.com/cart.php?m=search_results&search=fuel+cap

Sense your running the 37" tires and will be replacing the steering box. You might consider a steering box brace from Offroad Design, here's a link...........http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/steeringkit.htm

Whenever searching for parts you'll have to call it a 1984 K5 or K30

Your thinking of flapper grinding wheels. These are not the same at all. I've found the wire wheels are far more detrimental to the metal underneath. Mostly do to the heat they produce, especially if your working with sheet metal where warping can occur.

Yeah after discovering these the only wire wheel I have in my life is a small one on my drill press. I use it to quickly clean bolt threads, beyond that I have no use for them anymore.2cents

Dude! WIRE WHEELS EVIL STOP USING THEM! here's what I use, they're much safer, work way better, and are gentler on the part........https://www.harborfreight.com/4-12-in-polycarbide-abrasive-wheel-60571.html

How did you mount that spare under the back?

I've driven classic "project cars" all my life. The best advise I can give someone about owning a classic car or truck is this. If your not willing and able to do (ALL) the work yourself then don't do it! Old vehicles are like building a model airplane, you just don't farm out the work, or...

I just installed an aluminum heater core about a month ago, and it works fine? The only issue I've read about, is some are too thin and don't fit in the air box tight enough? I got the part number off a thread on this forum. here it is (Spectra Premium) #94553

Agreed, I'm no electrical expert, but I am familiar with old Ford starter relay's. (Which is kind of what our GP relays are like). They'll chatter like that, either from age or low voltage. I'd spend a day and a six pack cleaning connections and replacing the GP relay:beer:

Yes there's supposed to be a 195° thermostat. But, yah know people do silly things with vehicles, like take out thermostats.:roll:

Well both would be a good idea regardless. Do you have a temp gauge? Is the engine getting up to temp? You may find there isn't a thermostat?

Ballin on a budget will only end up costing you more $$$ down the road. 30+ year old junkyard parts are just that, and any lift kit you buy will end up needing an add-a-leaf, do to the extra weight of the 6.2. Some things are just cheaper to do right the first time, spend a little more now to...

Turned my fuel up 1/8 of a turn. When I installed my Banks turbo a while back, I had to back off the 1/4 turn advance by an 1/8 because it was running a little hot. But now that I've replaced the heads, gaskets, and upgraded to studs. I went ahead and put back the 1/8 turn. It's amazing how much...