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Wiring diagrams and schematic start on page 4-94 of the first manual I posted too.

You're welcome, Lee. I've found quite a few on Igor's site. Strangely, some are under "Military Generators" and some are under "Other Generators": http://igor.chudov.com/manuals/

There are a couple manuals here: http://www.google.com/url?q=http://igor.chudov.com/manuals/Military-Generators/MEP-701A/TM-5-6115-640-14-and-P.pdf&sa=U&ei=T34qUf70C_CH0QHHx4HoBw&ved=0CBsQFjAA&usg=AFQjCNGxm0DqVPoL4aZfqrqVknkgNdaSPQ...

I'm probably forgetting, but last I remember, you were soldering to the stub of the broken wire on the original capacitor. What did you end up using? Edit: I searched the thread and found it on p. 4. I was getting you mixed up with another member, I guess.

Jonathan, you must have the type of hour meter I have, which is the old type that has a spring driven clock movement that gets wound once in a while by an electromagnet. If you cut power to it shortly after it goes "click" and winds the spring, it will keep running until the spring winds down.

Very cool, Jim. I'll print the hour meter mounts and you cut the gaskets. :-D

No, it shouldn't. It's supposed to run only if there's oil pressure and the master switch is in one of the two prime/run positions, or if the switch is in the start position.

Don't assume the regulator is bad if you haven't tested it. The problem could be something as simple as another broken wire.

I can't think of any reason it won't work fine, but you'll still need to observe the maximum rating of an MEP-002A, since I assume the main breaker is still the one for a 5 kW unit, and there are control components that aren't right for exceeding the rating of an MEP-002A. Yes, you're right...

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I hope you disconnected the batteries. They'll cause as much or more damage than 120/240VAC if something is shorting.

I don't remember if you already did this, but it sounds like a compression test might be in order. My oil pressure is about at the top of the gauge when cold and drops to around 30-35 when hot, but that depends a lot on just what oil you're using and how long it's been in there. Oil pressure...

Jim, the behavior of your frequency meter sounds like the way mine behaves when it's way below speed. It's all over the place, and then when I get close to 1800, it does what it's supposed to. No smoke from my dipstick tube.

Good work getting it running, and not surprising that's all it took. I help a neighbor keep his Ford NAA tractor running. 90% of the time he has trouble, I clean the points and dry the inside of the distributor and it runs fine again.

I have a feeling there are plenty. I was looking at the 004A manuals today and found a bunch. The worst was a schematic that had transistors with unconnected leads.

OK Thanks. I'll remember that it matches cars.

GR, I know what you mean about what has been stated here and many other places previously. I'm very sure that all the warnings were sincere as well. DW, yes, if it's giving 60 Hz power, the engine is running 1800 RPM. The catch is that the frequency meter on the generator may or may not be...

The pistons follow each other, but are one full revolution apart in the cycle. One cylinder fires each 1/2 turn of the engine.

That's often true of generators that have a regulator that supplies current directly to the exciter field, but the 002 and 003 work opposite to that. The regulator supplies current to CVT1 to reduce the field current. This means that running the engine slower than 1800 rpm causes the regulator...

The range of the throttle adjustment is pretty limited, so it doesn't really matter very much where it's set for your first start. Just get it running and adjust it to 60 Hz. The 002A and 003A regulators are not in danger if the speed is below 1800 RPM (60 Hz) so don't be scared. From my...