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Wow.

Another way to look at it is a Diesel engine is probably around 45% efficient, and with luck, the generator might be 90% efficient. .45 x .9 = 40.5% overall efficiency. So when the generator is putting out 10 kW, there will be 10,000 / .405 = 24,691 Watts of power put into the engine by diesel...

A few months ago it was really windy here and I told my 16 year old son that I hoped the power didn't go off. He replied while chuckling "Oh no you don't."

Two of the three hands in the 60 Hz schematic of the MEP-003A in TM5-6115-585-34 point out the "double fault" problem with the jumper and 120V-only operation, so I assumed that in general they point out things that are mentioned in the text. It would have been nice if labels had been put next...

I hope you've found Caswell's phenolic epoxy liner, Jim.

That's not unusual for a cold engine. Mine drops to more like 30-35 once it's fully warmed up. It really depends on what oil you're using and how long it's been in there.

This is a subject of confusion. Some generators have regulators that directly supply current to the field, and if you run the engine slowly, the regulator will work extra hard to try to keep the output voltage up. In some cases, this could damage the regulator. The MEP-002A and MEP-003A's...

Oh, those tubes!

I guess that means the capacitor was the problem, good going.

I don't mean to butt in front of Isaac, but yes, you can run without the capacitor. It's for RF noise suppression, and if you never plan to use the generator around radio equipment, you won't miss it. If you're going to use it to power emergency communication equipment, for example, you should...

Walt, I'm not familiar with that tube offhand, so I'll let someone else take this one.

Excellent work, Walt. It's always good to hear about success. :-D

As I understand you, the convenience outlet has power, but L3 does not. The schematic shows the convenience outlet connected to L3, so it does sound like the big reconnect switch or something after it is not passing the output of T3 at the generator head, which passes through wire X3A8, to...

I assume the engine is not loaded hard and blowing smoke to indicate a short, so it sounds like you need to use a meter to check the output right at the generator itself, then move down the path toward the output lugs one step at a time, and see where you do and don't have power. The problem...

When I bought an MEP-003A last summer, I used uShip to collect competing bids from shippers. I think the bid I chose was $370 to move it about 450 miles from Tennessee to here. The uShip experience was good for me, but I did it that way only that one time. Some bids were a lot higher, like $1200.

CVT1 has control windings. By passing DC through them, the iron in the transformer can be made to saturate so that the transformer produces less current to be rectified and sent to the exciter field. To test CVT1, the rectifier bridge, and the associated wiring, you can disconnect terminal 14...

I've been thinking about this. It would be better to use three in series, since when the generators are out of phase the peak is about 340 Volts.

I built one and would be happy to test yours for you, but I imagine shipping back and forth just for the test would not be worth it to you.

I wonder if the ammeter is supposed to have a shunt connected to it to carry most of the current, but it's missing.

There is, on page 6-12 of manual TM5-6115-585-34, but it takes a couple meters, a variable transformer, and T1 and T2 from the control box.