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You can do a search for generator sizing. There you can plug in all your loads and it will help decide on the size. Square footage really does not matter. It is the items you need to power. I have and oil fired hot air furnace, electric hot water heater, and the usual loads such as microwave...

480517E is the current replacement part number. Prices vary all over the lot. Search of the auction site and Google will reveal many sources. I too had a bad pump on my unit. I found a used one on here. Maybe post a want ad.

Jim, right on. It amazes me how many people have no understanding of electricity and think a bigger battery will make it start better. If I plug my computer into my welder outlet will it be twice as fast? The temperature of a battery certainly changes the batteries ability to supply current...

Time will tell. Vibration is what does in lawn tractor batteries. I would be willing to bet that the vibration of the generators will be tough on batteries. Automotive batteries are not designed for significant vibration. I doubt that any civilian battery would hold as well as the Mil Spec battery.

What are you referring to?

Wow good price for Interstate battery.

I used 51R batteries from WalMart. They fit pretty good. Not exact. If you want exact you have to buy 2HN batteries.

You should not use the convenience outlets to load test your machine. Make a cable and outlets to connect to the lugs. Then load test from there. The meter on the machine is not displaying amps. It is displaying percent load. Your kill-a-watt will display amps not percent load. To measure...

Maybe we could add this to the wiki?

Fluke is the gold standard. Amprobe is also good. Most of my electrical test equipment is Fluke but for an clamp on meter I bought an Amprobe. Not really too worried if I am off a few milliamps.

That meter should work. You have to supply it with 120 V. The original frequency transducer had 120V input. Use that and you should be good to go. The only issue might be the vibration from the unit.

I need a frequency meter for one of my 002A's. I did find one but it is $200. It is supposedly a more reliable modern design. I know I can use a kill a watt or my fluke to measure but I want a working frequency meter on my machine.

I already have a Kill-a-Watt that I use to find energy hogs. I also can use my Fluke meters or even Fluke scopes to verify the frequency. I am the kind of person who likes everything working. I may spring for a modern replacement gauge

As long as the voltage across the batteries is more than 24 volts with the unit running, you are charging. No need to worry about current output.

Unfortunately the pump was not gummed up. It has an open in the electrical side. I was hoping it was the EMI part but no such luck. Storeman had a used one and I will install that this coming weekend. Still looking for a frequency gauge and transducer. Then my units will be complete.

The DC system has to charge the batteries for sure, however do not forget that the fuel pumps are 24VDC, the fuel shut off solenoid is also 24VDC and if you use them, the panel lights are 24VDC. If the on-board system is good for 6.5-10amps your 5 amp charger may not be enough to run these items...

Thanks Jerry. Next I have to replace the couple of items I am currently sourcing. Then I will install some casters and then bring them to my house and my buddies house. Then I will wire up and run a test. I will probably go on generator power for a weekend to test things out.

Well my friend and I finally had time to get back to our units. The one that would not start was found the linkage at the IP was sticking. A little PB blaster on the linkage, a tweak to the linkage itself and it works like a charm. No more sticking. Both units fired right up and ran. We brought...

Actually it is not a good idea. Unless you ground the generator to the same ground tat your main panel is grounded to. This is the same reason you do not bond neutral and ground in a sub panel. There should only be one path to ground.

For the camper you will need a ground rod. When connected to your house you do not want to connect to a ground rod. However you need to connect the ground lead in the cord connected to your house to the frame of the Generator. The MEP-002A vs. MEP-802a has been discussed in several other...