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See, you're perfectly safe to proceed with the experimental wiring effort.

Possibly. But probably only if you got the ether start function working already, and there's a leak. If you leave the doors open, even that potential explosion shouldn't hurt anything. After all, the windshield is not only secured by the normal seal, but also three wires.

You only have 15 possibilities to get them installed incorrectly. Start trying...what could possibly go wrong?

I'm fairly sure mine are SAE, and I used a 1-7/8 socket. The 1-inch hydraulic impact had to work a bit, despite the threads having been soaked with 50/50 ATF and acetone for a few days. If not for using penetrant, I'd guess it'd take a very long breaker bar...or cheating, like Speedwoble did.

What's the deal with the obviously not stock crimp connectors with wires in a Y configuration?

Remembered wrong, it's a side mount.

Sorry, the closest one I know of is General Hood, in Oklahoma. Anyway, here's my M1031.

Chris, that's basically an M1008, but with better mechanicals and an aluminum box on the back (not slant back, though), with a generator, compressor, and such inside. Unfortunately, the only HMMW related thing I have is a GEP built 6.5, still on a pallet.

Would a very nice M1031 with under 7,000 miles on it be close enough to a turret kit?

Looks like I lucked out when I got mine directly from GEP. Not that it matters since the whole project came to a grinding halt anyway.

It's up front, as I recall. Need to pull the moving blankets off and refresh my memory. I've gotten fairly used to my MO, which is two steps forward and three back. And not only when it comes to automotive stuff.

Sorry to hear that your luck can be as bad as mine at times. Anyway, I have a dynoed, 6.5 still sitting on its shipping pallet in case you're interested.

Hmm. I should check what the actual voltage is on the Winter SEE. I know it likes to over charge, but not by how much. Anyway, the Volt meter comes on when you power up the system, regardless of if the engine is running or not. Just like the other gauges.

You may have inspired me to take another look at my over charging issues - before the snow starts falling.

That sounds like it's working like it should. You'll see about 14 on a 12 Volt system, and 28 on a 24 Volt system. In contrast, with the Winter SEE, after having a cup of coffee while the oil pressure gauge catches up, I rev it just enough to make the charging kick on (and I'm sure you meant...

Sorry, can't offer any advice here. But for what it's worth, the charging issue on my Winter SEE has improved, all by itself. Just like many other ailments on the FLUs, come to think of it. I think the lesson to be learned is that if I leave well enough alone, it gets better.

These new posts, combined with my conscience, made me fire up the Winter SEE and move some dirt today. It's been on my mind for a while, because it hasn't been started up since the snow blower came off in...what, March? Much to my delight, the air pressure gauge still showed 60 psi, and it...

I think the common idling of diesels is due to over-the-road trucker idling during the night in years past, either to run the heater or the A/C. Can't remember how bad it is for them, but at least on OTR tractors the rings aren't even meant to seal at idle. That's a lot of fuel and crap going...

Phil, it may be taking it to the extreme, but I don't cold start an engine if I can help it. I'll push, pull, tow, whatever it takes, if a vehicle needs to be moved. If it gets started, it'll get driven until the fluids are up to temp. That's different from letting it idle for 15 minutes...

Uh, oh. I'd managed to forget about FLU electrical ailments. Yes, the Winter SEE still wants to over charge, but it's become second nature to wiggle the main power cut-off key until it shapes up. Hopefully someone with more recent knowledge/better memory will chime in.